Mojave Desert

Willie Boy & Carlota

A Braided Tale

The story of Willie Boy is one of the most haunting and complex episodes in the history of the California desert. It begins in the early autumn of 1909, when a young Chemehuevi-Paiute man named Willie Boy falls deeply in love with Carlota, the daughter of a respected tribal elder. Their romance, set in the desert landscapes around Banning and Twentynine Palms, was as ill-fated as any tragic ballad of the Old West, and it ended in bloodshed, loss, and a manhunt that became part of American legend.

Willie Boy was about twenty-eight years old, a Chemehuevi from the Southern Paiute people, raised near the Colorado River but often working for white ranchers in the San Gorgonio Pass area. He was a quiet man, by most accounts, known for his skill as a runner and his ability as a capable worker. Carlota was sixteen, the daughter of William and Maria Mike, who lived with their people at the Oasis of Mara, now part of Joshua Tree National Park. Their families knew each other, but Chemehuevi tradition forbade marriage between cousins, which made the match impossible in the eyes of her father.

When Willie Boy and Carlota ran off together, they defied both cultural law and parental authority. They were brought back once, but they met again later that year when the Mike family traveled to Banning for the fall fruit harvest. The reunion of the two lovers set the final tragedy in motion. One evening in late September 1909, Willie Boy went to the Mike family’s camp near the Gilman Ranch to ask for Carlota’s hand. Her father, a strong-willed and traditional man, refused him flatly. Some say the older man reached for a gun, others that Willie Boy had brought one and lost his nerve. There was a struggle, a shot, and when the dust settled, William Mike lay dead. Whether the shooting was deliberate or accidental has never been settled.

Knowing that the white authorities would come for him, Willie Boy fled into the desert with Carlota. They rode and walked across the dry country east of Banning, following faint trails and water holes that only local people knew. When Maria Mike discovered her husband’s body at dawn, she reported the killing to the sheriff. Within hours, a posse had formed, led by Riverside County Sheriff Frank Wilson and his deputy Ben de Crevecoeur. With them were a handful of local ranchers and two Native trackers, John Hyde and Segundo Chino.

The chase that followed quickly became a national story. Newspapers painted Willie Boy as a savage outlaw, “a drunken Piute renegade” who had killed in a jealous rage and carried off a helpless girl. The language was raw, racist, and designed to sell papers. Reporters wrote that the “bloodthirsty Indian” might even threaten President Taft, who happened to be visiting Riverside that week. This hysteria turned a local tragedy into a full-blown legend.

Meanwhile, Willie Boy and Carlota pressed deeper into the Mojave. They moved mostly at night, hiding by day in the arroyos and canyons. Willie Boy’s endurance was remarkable; he could travel fifty miles across rough ground in a day. But they were running low on food and water, and the posse was relentless.

At some point during the pursuit, Carlota was killed. Her body was found later, shot through the back. Early newspaper reports said Willie Boy had murdered her so she would not slow him down. That version fit the outlaw story perfectly, but later investigations suggest otherwise. The coroner’s report showed she was shot from long range, likely by a posse member who mistook her for Willie Boy. She was wearing his coat at the time. Decades later, oral histories from the Chemehuevi confirmed that this is what their elders always believed: that the white men killed Carlota by mistake, then blamed her lover to save face.

After Carlota’s death, the posse pressed on. The final confrontation came at Ruby Mountain, near what is now Landers. Willie Boy took a defensive position among the rocks. As the posse approached, he opened fire, deliberately aiming for their horses rather than their riders. One deputy, Charlie Reche, was wounded in the arm. The standoff lasted all day until the lawmen pulled back to tend to the injured. At sunset, they heard a single gunshot from the mountain. They assumed Willie Boy had turned the gun on himself. When they returned a few days later, they found a badly decomposed body lying near a rifle and declared the manhunt over. They burned the remains on the spot rather than carrying them out of the desert.

That cremation left no evidence. No one could later prove that the body was Willie Boy’s, and none of the posse’s surviving photographs show a face that can be identified. This gap opened the door to one of the enduring mysteries of the story. Among the Chemehuevi, Paiute, and Cahuilla people, the belief persisted that Willie Boy escaped. They said he traveled north through the desert and eventually settled with relatives near Pahrump, Nevada, living quietly until tuberculosis took him years later. Segundo Chino, one of the trackers on the posse who later married Maria Mike, is said to have admitted that the posse never actually caught Willie Boy.

The events deeply shook the Chemehuevi community. They left their traditional home at the Oasis of Mara, afraid that William Mike’s restless spirit might bring misfortune. For many years, they refused to speak of the tragedy. In that silence, white writers filled the void. The newspapers portrayed Willie Boy as a villain and the manhunt as a piece of frontier nostalgia.

Half a century later, journalist Harry Lawton rediscovered the tale. Working from old newspaper clippings and interviews with surviving posse members, he published Willie Boy: A Desert Manhunt in 1960. His book treated the story as both history and myth, but it still leaned toward the posse’s version. The novel won awards and inspired the 1969 film Tell Them Willie Boy Is Here, directed by Abraham Polonsky and starring Robert Blake and Robert Redford. The film gave the story a tragic, modern edge and questioned some of the old assumptions, but it also cemented certain inaccuracies in popular memory.

In the 1990s, historians James Sandos and Larry Burgess revisited the story in The Hunt for Willie Boy: Indian-Hating and Popular Culture. They demonstrated how racism and sensationalism influenced the original reports and concluded that many of the most colorful details were fabricated. They agreed that Carlota was almost certainly killed by the posse, not by Willie Boy, but they accepted that he probably died on Ruby Mountain.

A generation later, Native historian Clifford Trafzer went further. Drawing on oral histories from Chemehuevi and Cahuilla elders, he argued that the man the posse burned was not Willie Boy at all. In the stories told by his people, Willie Boy survived the chase, lived for years among the Paiute in Nevada, and died quietly of illness. Trafzer’s work reframed the legend as a Native tragedy rather than a Western adventure.

For the Chemehuevi and other desert people, the story of Willie Boy and Carlota is more than a love story gone wrong. It represents the collision of two worlds: traditional tribal law and the laws of the new American order. It marks the loss of a way of life and the pain of a community forced into silence.

Today, the tale continues to echo across the desert. Artists and filmmakers have attempted to retell the story from the Native perspective. In 2016, Cahuilla artist Lewis de Soto created an installation in Twentynine Palms called Carlota, giving voice to the young woman whose story had long been overshadowed. In 2022, Jason Momoa produced The Last Manhunt, a film made in collaboration with the Chemehuevi that depicts the event as the tribe remembers it.

Whether Willie Boy died on Ruby Mountain or escaped into the Nevada desert may never be known. What is certain is that his story reveals how quickly truth can be twisted by fear and prejudice, and how long it can take for those who were silenced to be heard again.

The Willie Boy saga began as a local tragedy, became a legend through the press, and has endured as a window into the uneasy meeting of cultures in the desert. It reminds us that history is not fixed in stone, but lives in the voices of those who tell it, and that sometimes the best we can do is listen to all of them.

As a Play

You could think of the Mojave Desert as a grand Broadway production—ancient, dramatic, and full of subtle choreography that has played out for millions of years.

The stage is the geology: immense backdrops of folded mountains, tilted strata, and fault lines painted by time. Volcanic cones serve as spotlight towers, alluvial fans sweep like curtains drawn across the basin floor, and the Mojave River cuts a wandering path like a traveling stagehand moving props between acts.

The set is built from plants, rocks, and the occasional weathered structure. Joshua trees rise like eccentric stage pieces, each with its own pose under the lights. Creosote bushes fill in the ensemble—reliable, understated performers who know every cue. Abandoned mining cabins, ghost towns, and derelict rail ties serve as the props and scenery from earlier acts, remnants left between scenes of prosperity and decline.

The lighting crew is the sun, directing each scene with precision—blinding spotlights at noon, warm amber tones at dusk, and moonlit silver rehearsals after dark. The wind adds the soundtrack, whispering through canyons or howling like a restless audience.

The actors? Coyotes, bighorn sheep, and lizards—all improvising within a script written by climate and time. Even the rain, when it shows up, steals the scene with a brief but powerful soliloquy, transforming everything for one fleeting act before bowing out again for months, sometimes years.

Every performance is different, but the play never closes. The Mojave’s production runs continuously, with geology always holding center stage and life finding its cues wherever it can.

The Archive and the Conversation

A Living Record

The Mojave Desert is the central thread, but the archive is more than just a storehouse of facts about the land. It’s a layered record, part historical survey, part natural history guide, and part personal journal. The archive contains thousands of entries, ranging from carefully produced histories of ghost towns to quick, almost casual notes about desert wildflowers. It also includes the memory of conversations, some technical, some reflective, all contributing to a living body of knowledge.

The current archive carries these notes forward. They do not simply add new entries; they revisit and renew older ones. When you ask about Scotty’s Castle, it’s not only a summary of a landmark in Death Valley but also a chance to look again at Walter Scott’s fabricated gold mine, his staged shootout at Wingate Pass, and the way his friendship with Albert Johnson turned into one of the strangest desert partnerships. That reflects the way your archive works: history is never sealed off, but constantly connected to other stories. Scotty’s fake mine ties to mining history, con men, railroad investors, and the enduring myths of the desert.

Other chats anchor themselves in place. Marl Springs, for example, appears not just as a dot along the Mojave Road but as a critical water source, garrisoned by soldiers in 1867 and attacked in the same year. The description in your archive emphasizes its clay-like soil and its dependable, if limited, water supply. The chat adds motion to that entry by pulling the soldiers into view, by describing how isolated Marl Springs was from Soda Springs to the west, and by noting how wildlife still depend on its water. Here, the archive preserves detail, while the conversation reanimates it.

Afton Canyon is another recurring subject. The archive refers to it as the Grand Canyon of the Mojave, formed approximately 15,000 years ago when Lake Manix drained catastrophically. The chats bring it alive with more than geology. They highlight the Mojave River flowing above ground, the slot canyons and caves, the risks of flash floods, and the chance to hike and watch wildlife. The personal tone slips in here: Afton is not just an entry on a map; it is a place walked, seen, and photographed. This blend of technical and personal is one of the hallmarks of your work.

Rainbow Basin provides another good example. In the archive, it is a geologic site featuring badlands and folded rock, as well as paleontological finds and fragile soils. In conversation, it becomes a vivid picture of color bands, rattlesnakes, and the eerie feel of hiking through formations shaped by time and water. The description is simplified for younger readers when needed, but the detail remains. It is both a science lesson and a story about walking through the basin yourself.

The archive also gives weight to local communities and their histories. Cajon Pass, for instance, is not simply a route. It is a crossroads layered with stories: Rancho Muscupiabe, Mormon pioneers, the Santa Fe and Southern Pacific railroads, the old wagon roads, the geology of Lost Lake and Blue Cut. Chats about Cajon Pass often focus on its function as a gateway, a place where history, geology, and transportation come together. They show how the archive not only stores information but also draws connections, creating a network of meaning.

The same goes for Old Woman Springs. The archive notes its name, given by surveyors who saw Indian women there. It records Albert Swarthout’s ranching operation, the cattle drives through Rattlesnake Canyon, and the later disputes with J. Dale Gentry. In chat, the place becomes more than history. It becomes a story of how ranching shaped the Mojave, how land ownership shifted, and how the desert landscape still carries those traces.

Other places appear again and again, sometimes as historical notes, sometimes as subjects for simplified explanations. Shea’s Castle in the Antelope Valley, built by Richard Shea in hopes of curing his wife’s illness, ruined by the stock market crash, later a film set. Hotel Beale in Kingman is tied to Andy Devine, the actor whose name became linked to Route 66. Oasis of Mara in Twentynine Palms is a site of Native planting, early settlement, and eventual park development. Each of these places carries weight in the archive, but they come alive in conversation, as the details are retold, refined, and made accessible.

Ecology is just as present as history. Pinyon pines and junipers, Fremont cottonwoods, brittlebush, desert sunflowers, bees sleeping in flowers, and ‘horny toads’ explained to children — all of these details show how the archive ranges across subjects. A glossary entry on igneous rocks can sit beside a playful description of bees tucked into golden blossoms for the night. A technical note on pinyon-juniper woodland succession can be followed by a casual story about antelope ground squirrels darting through camp. These shifts in tone are part of the richness of the record.

The archive also holds larger arcs. The history of Owens Valley runs through it: the water conflicts with Los Angeles, the aqueduct, the treaties with Native peoples, the battles fought during the Owens Valley Indian War. Panamint City and Greenwater appear as examples of boom and bust, with detailed accounts of stagecoach robbers, Nevada senators, mining camps, and the short-lived hopes of investors. The Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad, Remi Nadeau’s freight road, and the Atlantic and Pacific’s push across the Mojave all weave together into the bigger story of transportation. These arcs show how your archive is not just about single places but about the way places link into broader regional histories.

The present chats extend these arcs. A question about Owenyo might focus on its railroad history, but in doing so, it links back into Owens Valley and forward into the decline of rail in the desert. A question about Llano del Rio touches both the socialist dreams of Job Harriman and the modern ruin that still draws visitors. Each chat is both a piece in itself and a way of extending the larger web.

Throughout, there is an awareness of presentation. The archive is not simply a private notebook. It is shaped to be shared: titles, descriptions, metadata, glossaries, indexes. Chats often focus on how best to present this material to readers, whether as timelines, simplified summaries, or relational indexes. The act of shaping the material for public use is part of the archive itself.

The combination of archive and chat also reflects a deeper concern: preservation. The desert is full of forgotten places, and people who once told their stories are no longer around. By recording these histories, revisiting them, and reshaping them for new audiences, the archive resists that loss. The chats show the urgency of this work, as you reflect on volunteers thinning out, museums struggling, and the need to keep the desert’s stories alive.

The archive is a landscape in itself. Its mesas are the long, detailed histories. Its washes are the short, playful notes. Its valleys are the connections between subjects. The chats are the weather moving across that landscape, stirring it, reshaping it, sometimes eroding, sometimes depositing. Over time, the whole thing grows richer, more interconnected, more alive.

This is why the archive and chats cannot be separated. The archive preserves. The chats enliven. Together they form a record of both the desert and of the act of remembering. The Mojave is the subject, but the deeper theme is persistence: the persistence of asking, recording, and shaping knowledge into something that lasts.

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When Bees Sleep

Things to say to a seven-year-old

In the Mojave Desert, the bright yellow desert gold flowers open wide in the sunshine. They look like little suns shining across the sand. Bees love to visit, buzzing from one bloom to the next, sipping sweet nectar and rolling in golden pollen.

As the sun sinks low, the flowers start to close their petals. It’s bedtime for desert gold. But sometimes, a bee is still inside. When the petals fold shut, the bee is tucked in—safe and snug in a soft bed of pollen. The flower becomes a tiny motel room just for bees.

On windy nights, the motel isn’t always calm. The flower sways and shakes, tossing the bee about like a boat on stormy water. That’s what makes it “wild” life. But even if it gets bumpy, the bee is better off inside than out in the cold desert night.

Bees are hard workers with a wonderful work ethic. They don’t even leave the job when it’s time to rest. They sleep right at work, in golden beds of pollen. And when the morning sun warms the desert and the flowers open again, the bees are already up and ready—buzzing off to do their important work all over again.

Sunflower

Damn Yellow Flowers

Rancho Lucerne

In the early 1990s, Rancho Lucerne was introduced as an ambitious master-planned development for Lucerne Valley. The proposal covered nearly 1,400 acres and envisioned 4,257 homes, a 27-hole golf course, and commercial amenities. A Draft Environmental Impact Report was released in 1993, and early grading even took place near the high school. To its backers, Rancho Lucerne promised to transform the valley from a quiet agricultural community into a suburban center.

But the project unraveled almost as quickly as it appeared. The financier behind Rancho Lucerne was charged with embezzlement, money dried up, and by 2001 the plan was abandoned. What remained was a scar of disrupted desert soil, a reminder of what might have been.

At first glance, this collapse may have seemed like a failed opportunity for growth. In reality, it became a turning point that preserved Lucerne Valley’s traditional identity. Without Rancho Lucerne, the valley avoided the massive shift toward suburban sprawl. Instead, it stayed closer to its roots—scattered ranch homes, small farms, alfalfa fields, and open desert stretching to the horizon. Growth continued on a modest, individual scale, with new homes built one lot at a time rather than through sweeping developments.

The deeper reason for resistance lay in water. Lucerne Valley relies on its underground aquifer, a fragile supply that has always been stretched between farms, families, and the desert ecosystem. A project of Rancho Lucerne’s scale—thousands of houses and a golf course—would have drawn heavily from this source. For many locals, that alone made the project unsustainable. By failing, Rancho Lucerne spared the valley from a major new demand on its water, leaving space for the slower pace of development that better fits the desert.

Even today, when the project resurfaces in planning discussions, conservation groups such as the Morongo Basin Conservation Association push back, citing water, wastewater, air quality, traffic, cultural resources, and environmental justice. The mood of the community leans strongly against large-scale development. Rancho Lucerne has become a kind of cautionary tale: a reminder that the valley’s future is best secured by honoring its agricultural heritage and protecting its limited resources.

Looking back, the unbuilt project didn’t just fade into history—it helped define the community’s values. By collapsing, Rancho Lucerne reinforced the belief that Lucerne Valley’s strength lies not in suburban expansion but in its rural heart, where water, land, and tradition are treated as treasures too rare to gamble away.

Lucerne Valley

Mojave: Nature or Nurture

If you’re wondering whether the Mojave Desert is shaped more by nature or human influence, the answer is a combination of both. However, nature has had the predominant role for much longer.

Over millions of years, nature has carved out the Mojave, sculpting its landscapes through the forces of wind and water. It has created mountain ranges, valleys, and ancient lakebeds, setting the stage with extreme temperatures, limited rainfall, and hardy plants and animals that have adapted to survive in this challenging environment. Species like Joshua trees, creosote bushes, bighorn sheep, and sidewinder rattlesnakes have all found a way to thrive in a land where survival is not guaranteed.

In contrast, humans have made their mark in a much shorter timeframe. Indigenous peoples, such as the Chemehuevi and Mojave, lived sustainably in the region, moving with the seasons and utilizing the land’s resources without depleting them. Later, settlers, miners, ranchers, railroad builders, and modern developers added further layers of change. Some areas, like Las Vegas, military installations, and sprawling solar farms, have undergone significant transformation. In contrast, other regions remain relatively untouched, preserving their raw, ancient beauty.

So, is the Mojave a product of nature or nurture? Nature formed it, while humans have made adjustments—sometimes respecting its limits and other times pushing them. Regardless of how much we build or alter the landscape, the desert continues to adhere to its own rules. Flash floods serve as reminders of the power of water, sand dunes shift and reclaim the land, and scorching summer temperatures demonstrate who is truly in charge.

Digital-Desert & Mojave Desert .Net

The digital-desert.com and mojavedesert.net sites share the same subject matter and similar structure, dealing with the Mojave Desert and surrounding regions. Both of them provide learning materials, exploration tools, and information on history.

Here are the main parts that make up both sites:

1. Natural History Geology: Rock formations, fissures in the earth (such as the San Andreas Fault), volcanic activity, and desert patterns. Lake systems (e.g., former Lake Manix and dry lakes such as Soda Lake).

Ecology: Plants and animals that live in desert environments include Joshua trees, creosote bushes, desert tortoises, and bighorn sheep. Habitats include sand dunes, salt flats, canyons, and oases.
Climate: Desert weather patterns include very hot temperatures, seasonal rain, and wind events.

2. Human History Native American Culture: Tribes such as the Mojave, Chemehuevi, Serrano and Paiute. Rock art, traditions, and trade routes such as the Old Mojave Trail. Explorers and Pioneers: Tales of explorers like Jedediah Smith, Kit Carson, and Father Garces. Principal routes: Mojave Road, Spanish Trail, and Butterfield Overland Mail. Mining History: Gold, silver, and borax mining expand rapidly. Specific mining towns and operations are Calico, Rhyolite, and Boron. Historic Places and Ghost Towns: Places like Kelso Depot, Ballarat, and Pioneer Town. Old abandoned buildings, stage stops, and rail history.

3. Geography and Exploration Areas and Landmarks: Joshua Tree National Park Death Valley Mojave National Preserve and Rainbow Basin. Special shapes such as the Devil’s Punchbowl, Afton Canyon, and sand hills. Streets and Roads: Route 66, Old Mojave Road, and gorgeous roads. Hiking and driving routes with maps and information. Interactive Maps: Topographic and historical maps depicting routes of exploration and other localities.

4. Cultural Characteristics Towns and Communities: Tales of desert towns such as Barstow, Victorville, Littlerock, and Needles. Key Players: The area called Death Valley housed early settlers and miners, even famous dudes like Roy Rogers. Art and Folklore: Desert-themed art installations, legends (e.g., ghost stories, lost mines) and folklore.

5. Learning and Information Photos and Pictures: Large photo galleries of desert landscapes, animals and abandoned places. Field Guides: Resources for identifying plants and animals. History Timelines: A summary of geological, prehistoric, and modern historical events. Resource Links: References to books, museums and archives for further research.

6. Fun Guides Camping and Hiking: Lists of campgrounds, remote places, and summaries of hiking trails.
Driving Tours: Ideas for a nice road trip with important places to see.
Safety and Preparation: Tips for desert exploration, including hydration, navigation, and safety around wildlife.

While digital-desert.com focuses on exploration and natural beauty through detailed guides and maps, mojavedesert.net often has a more structured historical narrative and cultural focus. Both sites are resources for desert enthusiasts, historians, and educators.

California to Salt Lake City

THE OVERLAND MAIL
1849-1869
Promoter of Settlement
Precursor of Railroads by
LE ROY R. HAFEN, PH.D .
Historian, The Stale Historical and Natural History Society of Colorado

The first United States mail between California and Salt Lake City was established in 1851. This route was advertised January 27, 1851, and the thirty-seven bids received ranged from $20,000 for “horseback or two horse coach service,” to $200,000 per year for service with ” 135 pack animals with 45 men, divided into three parties.” One bid was for a four-horse coach with a guard of six men, at $135,000 per year. The lowest bid was accepted and a contract was made in April with Absalom Woodward and George Chorpenning for a monthly service at $14,000 per year; the trip each way was to be made in thirty days. No points were designated at which the route should touch, but it was to go “by the then traveled trail, considered about 910 miles long.”

Chorpenning and his men left Sacramento May 1, 1851, with the first mail. They had great difficulty in reaching Carson valley, having had to beat down the snow with wooden mauls to open a trail for their animals over the Sierras. For sixteen days and nights they struggled through and camped upon deep snow. Upon reaching Carson valley, Chorpenning staked off in the usual western manner, a quarter section of land and arranged to establish a mail station. The town of Genoa, Nevada, grew-up on this site. Chorpenning and several men continued eastward and reached Salt Lake City June 5th, having been delayed somewhat by snow in the Goose Creek mountains.

Throughout the summer, difficulties were experienced with the Indians; and Woodward, who left Sacramento with the November mail, was killed by them just west of Malad River in northern Utah. The December and January mails from Sacramento were forced to return on account of deep snow, but the February (1852) mail was pushed through by way of the Feather River Pass and reached Salt Lake City in sixty days. The carriers endured frightful sufferings; owing to the fact that their horses were frozen to death in the Goose Creek mountains, they had to go the last two hundred miles to Salt Lake City on foot. Permission was obtained from the special agent in San Francisco to send the March mail down the coast to San Pedro and thence by the Cajon Pass and the Mormon trail to Salt Lake City. During the summer of 1852 the service continued to be performed across northern Nevada by way of the Humboldt River; but as winter approached, arrangements were made with the mail agent at San Francisco to carry the Utah mail via Los Angeles during the winter months. The Carson valley post office was supplied monthly by a carrier on snow-shoes. Fred Bishop and Dritt were the first carriers and they were succeeded by George Pierce and John A. Thompson. The latter, “Snowshoe Thompson,” a Norwegian by birth, made himself famous in this section by his feats on snow-shoes during succeeding winters. The shoes used were ten feet long and of the Canadian pattern. He often took one hundred pounds upon the journey between Placerville and Carson, and made the trip in three days to Placerville and the return journey in two days.

With the interruption by bad weather of the mail service east of Salt Lake City, the mail was sent westward to San Pedro, where it was transmitted by steamer to the Atlantic seaboard. This increased the weight of Chorpenning mail from about one hundred pounds to about five hundred pounds. For this additional service Chorpenning made claim and in 1857 received payment on a pro rata basis.

The causes of the irregularity and interruption of the mail service to Utah had not been explained to the Postmaster-general by the Special Agent at San Francisco and so, upon the grounds of the derangement of the service, the Postmaster-general annulled the contract with Chorpenning, and made one with W. L. Blanchard of California. The new contractor was to receive $50,000 per year, and was to maintain a fortified post at Carson valley. Upon learning of this new arrangement in January, 1853, Chorpenning set out for Washington and, after setting forth his case before the new Postmaster-general, was reinstated. A verbal agreement was made that the compensation should be increased to $30,000 per year and permission was given to carry the mails via San Pedro during the winter months.

During the first three years (1851-4) the Utah-California mail was carried except in winter, by the old emigrant route. This route lay from Sacramento
through Folsom, Placerville, along the old road through Strawberry and Hope valleys to Carson valley. From this point it led to the Humboldt, which stream
was followed nearly to its source. Leaving the Humboldt the route led northeastward into southern Idaho in the vicinity of the Goose Creek mountains, and thence southeasterly around the north side of Great Salt Lake to Salt Lake City.

In the lettings of 1854, the Utah-California mail route was changed to run from Salt Lake City over the Mormon trail to San Diego. Chorpenning was again the successful bidder. The mail was to be carried monthly each way, through in twenty-eight days, for a compensation of $12,500 per year. Chorpenning thought it worthwhile to enter a low bid to ensure getting the contract since he expected that the service would probably be increased to a weekly schedule, the time per trip reduced, and the compensation increased.

The service began July 1, 1854, and was to continue for four years. The mail was carried on horseback or on pack mules. During that first summer, Indian difficulties arose and continued at intervals for months. The emigration fell off and expenses on the route increased. Similar difficulties had been encountered by the contractors east of the Rocky Mountains, who appealed to Congress and received increased remuneration by the act of March 3, 1855. Encouraged by their success with Congress, and inasmuch as his difficulties continued, Chorpenning went to Washington and presented his claims in June, 1856. Congress responded with an act for his relief March 3, 1857. It provided that the compensation be increased to $30,000 per year from July 1, 1853, to the termination of the contract in 1858; that the full contract pay be allowed during the suspension of the contract in the spring of 1853; and that the Postmaster-general make an additional allowance on a pro rata basis for the extra service performed prior to 1853. A total of $109,072.95 was allowed and paid under the provisions of this act.

During the four years of the duration of the contract (until July i, 1858), the mail was carried with fair regularity, and often in less than schedule time. The service was usually performed on horseback, but a wagon was used occasionally. The mail of December, 1857, was taken from Salt Lake City to Los Angeles by wagon in twenty-six days, while on horseback the trip often did not consume more than twenty days.

Wells Fargo and Company, Adams and Company, and other express companies maintained express service on the line during this period (1854-8). There was also much freighting and some emigrant travel over the road. The Mormon “State of Deseret” had included the whole of this route with its terminus upon the Pacific Coast. A colony was planted by these pioneers at San Bernardino in 1851 and considerable trade and intercourse was carried-on over this road.

The route was in general that of the present “Arrowhead Trail” automobile road. From Los Angeles the route led to San Bernardino, through Cajon Pass to the Mohave River, which was followed for fifty miles. From the Mohave River the route lay to the north to Bitter Springs, then turned eastward by Kingston Springs to Las Vegas, Nevada. From this famous resting station a dry stretch of sixty miles was crossed leading to the Muddy Creek. After crossing another “bench” the Virgin River was reached, and this stream was followed to Beaver Dams, Arizona. Leaving the Virgin River the road crossed the “slope” and over a little mountain range to the Santa Clara Creek, which stream was followed to the vicinity of the famous Mountain Meadows. From Mountain Meadows the route led to Cedar City and thence almost due north through the Mormon settlements of Parowan, Beaver, Fillmore, Nephi, Payson, Provo, and Lehi to Salt Lake City.”

Before the termination of the contract on this route the policy of extensive increases in the western mail lines was inaugurated, and partisans of the “Central Route” via Salt Lake City and across northern Nevada were demanding service upon that more direct route to San Francisco. Accordingly, in 1858 this Los Angeles to-Salt Lake City route was discontinued and the original route of 1851 was re-established and put upon an improved basis.

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The Evolution of Muroc: From Desert Wasteland to Aviation and Racing Hub

Geological and Environmental Background

Pleistocene Era (circa 2.5 million years ago) The origins of Rogers Dry Lake, located in the Antelope Valley within the Mojave Desert, trace back to the Pleistocene Era, around 2.5 million years ago. As a pluvial lake, it boasts an incredibly flat, smooth, and hard surface, which can withstand pressures up to 250 psi. These unique geological characteristics made Rogers Dry Lake a natural choice for aviation and automotive speed trials. Covering approximately 65 square miles, the lakebed forms a rough figure eight and is known for its harsh climate, experiencing extreme temperatures, violent dust storms, and mesmerizing sunsets.

Early Settlement and Development

Pre-1876: Sparse Population and Railroad Expansion Before significant settlement, the area was primarily inhabited by occasional prospectors searching for mineral wealth. The Southern Pacific Railroad established a water stop near the lakebed in 1876. In 1882, the Santa Fe Railroad extended westward from Barstow toward Mojave, establishing another water stop at the edge of what was then called Rodriguez Dry Lake. By the early 1900s, the name “Rodriguez” had been anglicized to “Rogers.”

1910: The Corum Family and the Founding of Muroc In 1910, the Corum family settled at the lakebed, naming the area “Muroc” by reversing their last name after their original choice, “Corum,” was rejected due to its similarity to “Coram, California.” The Corum family established a general store and post office, attracting other homesteaders and helping to develop the area. Their efforts laid the foundation for what would become a significant site in both aviation and automotive history.

Early Racing Events

1920s: The Dawn of Speed Events Muroc Dry Lake became a prominent site for American Automobile Association (AAA) sanctioned speed events during the 1920s. The affordability and modifiability of the Model T made it the preferred vehicle for early hot rodders. Roadsters were favored among racers, but touring cars were also frequently raced. In May 1923, Joe Nikrent set a speed record of 108.24 miles per hour in a stripped-down Buick. The following year, Tommy Milton achieved 151.26 mph in a Miller-powered race car. In 1927, Frank Lockhart reached a speed of 171 miles per hour, further cementing Muroc’s reputation as a premier racing venue.

October 9, 1927: Southern California Champion Sweepstakes One of the most significant early racing events was the Southern California Champion Sweepstakes, held on October 9, 1927. Organized by Earl Mansell from Pasadena, California, the event featured five classes of competition:

Ford Roadsters: Open to any Ford roadster with or without fenders or windshields, requiring a hood and turtle deck.
Ford Coupes: Required fenders, hood, windshield, and doors.
Ford Touring Cars: Fenders and windshields were optional.
Special Flathead Race: Open to any body style with a flathead engine, offering refunded entry fees to winners of the previous events.
Championship Sweepstakes: Open to any roadster, coupe, or touring car, with the option to race without windshield or fenders.

Organized Racing and the SCTA

1931: The First Organized Speed Trials In 1931, one of the first known organized amateur speed trials took place at Muroc, sponsored by Gilmore Oil Company of Los Angeles and organized by George Wight, owner of Bell Auto Parts. Recognizing the need for coordinated rules and regulations, Wight invited hot rodders to an organizational meeting in East Los Angeles. Early rules categorized cars based on engine types, including Model T flatheads, Model T Rajos, Model T Frontenacs and Chevrolets, Model A flatheads, and Model A overhead valve conversions. Supercharged cars were not allowed to compete. The first organized meet was held on March 25, 1931, followed by another on April 19, 1931. Safety measures were implemented, such as a 40 mph speed limit for returning cars and penalties for jumping the start.

Formation of the Muroc Racing Association By the end of 1931, the Muroc Racing Association was formed, complete with officers and a race program. The association collected a one-dollar entry fee to cover expenses, and the Purdy Brothers developed an electrical timer to clock the cars’ speeds, further formalizing the events.

1932-1933: Changes in Classification In 1932, the trials continued under the same rules, but significant changes in car classification were introduced. Cars were now categorized as either stock-bodied or modified. Stock-bodied cars could have certain parts removed, while modified cars were significantly altered. Between the 1932 and 1933 seasons, classifications shifted to speed and body type, with new classes based on potential top speeds. This change aimed to ensure fairness and safety, with measures like painting speedometers with white shoe polish to prevent drivers from knowing their exact speed.

Military Establishment and World War II

September 1933: The Arrival of the Army In 1933, the United States Army arrived at Muroc, recognizing the lakebed’s potential as an airfield. The Muroc Bombing and Gunnery Range was established, and by 1937, the United States Army Air Corps set up Muroc Air Field for training and testing purposes.

World War II and the Establishment of Muroc Army Air Base During World War II, Muroc Army Air Base was activated, serving as a major training site for bomber crews and fighter pilots. The flat, hard surface of Rogers Dry Lake was ideal for aircraft testing, including early jet planes like the Bell XP-59A and the Lockheed XP-80. On October 1, 1942, the Bell XP-59A Airacomet, America’s first jet plane, made its first flight at Muroc. The base played a crucial role in the war effort, training crews and testing new aircraft.

Post-War Developments After the war, Muroc continued to be a central hub for aviation research and development. The Bell X-1, piloted by Capt. Charles E. “Chuck” Yeager, broke the sound barrier on October 14, 1947, marking a significant milestone in aviation history. The base was renamed Edwards Air Force Base in February 1948 in honor of Capt. Glen W. Edwards, who died in a test flight accident. By 1950, Edwards Air Force Base was officially dedicated and recognized as the U.S. Air Force Flight Test Center (AFFTC).

The Hot Rodding Era

Post-War Racing and El Mirage The end of World War II marked a transition from racing activities at Muroc to El Mirage, another dry lakebed south of the air base. While El Mirage was not as ideal as Muroc, it continued to host hot rodding events. The SCTA (Southern California Timing Association) organized several “reunion” races at Muroc in 1995, bringing together a generation of racers who had participated in early SCTA events. However, racing activities at Muroc were halted following the events of September 11, 2001, due to security concerns.

Legacy and Continued Significance

Aviation and Hot Rodding Heritage Muroc’s dual legacy as a pioneering site for both aviation and hot rodding remains significant. Edwards Air Force Base continues to be a premier flight testing center, contributing to numerous advancements in aerospace technology. Meanwhile, the early days of hot rodding at Muroc are fondly remembered by enthusiasts and are considered a foundational period in the history of American motorsports.

Current Status and Future Prospects While racing activities at Muroc have ceased, El Mirage remains an active site for hot rodding events. The SCTA continues to organize races, preserving the spirit and tradition of early speed trials. There is hope that, in the future, Muroc might once again host racing events, allowing the sands to echo with the sounds of high-speed automotive competition.

In conclusion, Muroc’s history is a testament to its unique geographical features and its adaptability, serving as a critical site for both military aviation and automotive racing. The integration of these diverse historical elements highlights Muroc’s significant contribution to American technological and cultural heritage.

The Mourning Dove Song

Three short, sad notes the Mourning doves call to each other from bunches of thick green leaves in the cottonwood trees. The heat pushes up the canyon, and the bright sun chases the shadows into themselves the way a mirage disappears as you approach.

Boots crunched softly in the thick sand along the trail and spotted lizards dart frantically in the low scrub. The pointed ears of a coyote catch your attention as it leaps over a clump of gray grass to pounce on a squirrel eating a seed. A tortoise marches on steadfastly and fearless in his search for a mate. A cottontail nibbles on a juicy young leaf and listens closely to every scratch and pop.

The late morning finally gives way, and high noon approaches as bold as a bully. The air is clear and hot. The sun burns the back of your hands, bringing salt to your dry lips. Your forehead tingles; you push the brim of your hat back and tilt your head forward a bit to keep your face in the shade.

w.feller