Tag: Mojave Desert

California to Salt Lake City

THE OVERLAND MAIL
1849-1869
Promoter of Settlement
Precursor of Railroads by
LE ROY R. HAFEN, PH.D .
Historian, The Stale Historical and Natural History Society of Colorado

The first United States mail between California and Salt Lake City was established in 1851. This route was advertised January 27, 1851, and the thirty-seven bids received ranged from $20,000 for “horseback or two horse coach service,” to $200,000 per year for service with ” 135 pack animals with 45 men, divided into three parties.” One bid was for a four-horse coach with a guard of six men, at $135,000 per year. The lowest bid was accepted and a contract was made in April with Absalom Woodward and George Chorpenning for a monthly service at $14,000 per year; the trip each way was to be made in thirty days. No points were designated at which the route should touch, but it was to go “by the then traveled trail, considered about 910 miles long.”

Chorpenning and his men left Sacramento May 1, 1851, with the first mail. They had great difficulty in reaching Carson valley, having had to beat down the snow with wooden mauls to open a trail for their animals over the Sierras. For sixteen days and nights they struggled through and camped upon deep snow. Upon reaching Carson valley, Chorpenning staked off in the usual western manner, a quarter section of land and arranged to establish a mail station. The town of Genoa, Nevada, grew-up on this site. Chorpenning and several men continued eastward and reached Salt Lake City June 5th, having been delayed somewhat by snow in the Goose Creek mountains.

Throughout the summer, difficulties were experienced with the Indians; and Woodward, who left Sacramento with the November mail, was killed by them just west of Malad River in northern Utah. The December and January mails from Sacramento were forced to return on account of deep snow, but the February (1852) mail was pushed through by way of the Feather River Pass and reached Salt Lake City in sixty days. The carriers endured frightful sufferings; owing to the fact that their horses were frozen to death in the Goose Creek mountains, they had to go the last two hundred miles to Salt Lake City on foot. Permission was obtained from the special agent in San Francisco to send the March mail down the coast to San Pedro and thence by the Cajon Pass and the Mormon trail to Salt Lake City. During the summer of 1852 the service continued to be performed across northern Nevada by way of the Humboldt River; but as winter approached, arrangements were made with the mail agent at San Francisco to carry the Utah mail via Los Angeles during the winter months. The Carson valley post office was supplied monthly by a carrier on snow-shoes. Fred Bishop and Dritt were the first carriers and they were succeeded by George Pierce and John A. Thompson. The latter, “Snowshoe Thompson,” a Norwegian by birth, made himself famous in this section by his feats on snow-shoes during succeeding winters. The shoes used were ten feet long and of the Canadian pattern. He often took one hundred pounds upon the journey between Placerville and Carson, and made the trip in three days to Placerville and the return journey in two days.

With the interruption by bad weather of the mail service east of Salt Lake City, the mail was sent westward to San Pedro, where it was transmitted by steamer to the Atlantic seaboard. This increased the weight of Chorpenning mail from about one hundred pounds to about five hundred pounds. For this additional service Chorpenning made claim and in 1857 received payment on a pro rata basis.

The causes of the irregularity and interruption of the mail service to Utah had not been explained to the Postmaster-general by the Special Agent at San Francisco and so, upon the grounds of the derangement of the service, the Postmaster-general annulled the contract with Chorpenning, and made one with W. L. Blanchard of California. The new contractor was to receive $50,000 per year, and was to maintain a fortified post at Carson valley. Upon learning of this new arrangement in January, 1853, Chorpenning set out for Washington and, after setting forth his case before the new Postmaster-general, was reinstated. A verbal agreement was made that the compensation should be increased to $30,000 per year and permission was given to carry the mails via San Pedro during the winter months.

During the first three years (1851-4) the Utah-California mail was carried except in winter, by the old emigrant route. This route lay from Sacramento
through Folsom, Placerville, along the old road through Strawberry and Hope valleys to Carson valley. From this point it led to the Humboldt, which stream
was followed nearly to its source. Leaving the Humboldt the route led northeastward into southern Idaho in the vicinity of the Goose Creek mountains, and thence southeasterly around the north side of Great Salt Lake to Salt Lake City.

In the lettings of 1854, the Utah-California mail route was changed to run from Salt Lake City over the Mormon trail to San Diego. Chorpenning was again the successful bidder. The mail was to be carried monthly each way, through in twenty-eight days, for a compensation of $12,500 per year. Chorpenning thought it worthwhile to enter a low bid to ensure getting the contract since he expected that the service would probably be increased to a weekly schedule, the time per trip reduced, and the compensation increased.

The service began July 1, 1854, and was to continue for four years. The mail was carried on horseback or on pack mules. During that first summer, Indian difficulties arose and continued at intervals for months. The emigration fell off and expenses on the route increased. Similar difficulties had been encountered by the contractors east of the Rocky Mountains, who appealed to Congress and received increased remuneration by the act of March 3, 1855. Encouraged by their success with Congress, and inasmuch as his difficulties continued, Chorpenning went to Washington and presented his claims in June, 1856. Congress responded with an act for his relief March 3, 1857. It provided that the compensation be increased to $30,000 per year from July 1, 1853, to the termination of the contract in 1858; that the full contract pay be allowed during the suspension of the contract in the spring of 1853; and that the Postmaster-general make an additional allowance on a pro rata basis for the extra service performed prior to 1853. A total of $109,072.95 was allowed and paid under the provisions of this act.

During the four years of the duration of the contract (until July i, 1858), the mail was carried with fair regularity, and often in less than schedule time. The service was usually performed on horseback, but a wagon was used occasionally. The mail of December, 1857, was taken from Salt Lake City to Los Angeles by wagon in twenty-six days, while on horseback the trip often did not consume more than twenty days.

Wells Fargo and Company, Adams and Company, and other express companies maintained express service on the line during this period (1854-8). There was also much freighting and some emigrant travel over the road. The Mormon “State of Deseret” had included the whole of this route with its terminus upon the Pacific Coast. A colony was planted by these pioneers at San Bernardino in 1851 and considerable trade and intercourse was carried-on over this road.

The route was in general that of the present “Arrowhead Trail” automobile road. From Los Angeles the route led to San Bernardino, through Cajon Pass to the Mohave River, which was followed for fifty miles. From the Mohave River the route lay to the north to Bitter Springs, then turned eastward by Kingston Springs to Las Vegas, Nevada. From this famous resting station a dry stretch of sixty miles was crossed leading to the Muddy Creek. After crossing another “bench” the Virgin River was reached, and this stream was followed to Beaver Dams, Arizona. Leaving the Virgin River the road crossed the “slope” and over a little mountain range to the Santa Clara Creek, which stream was followed to the vicinity of the famous Mountain Meadows. From Mountain Meadows the route led to Cedar City and thence almost due north through the Mormon settlements of Parowan, Beaver, Fillmore, Nephi, Payson, Provo, and Lehi to Salt Lake City.”

Before the termination of the contract on this route the policy of extensive increases in the western mail lines was inaugurated, and partisans of the “Central Route” via Salt Lake City and across northern Nevada were demanding service upon that more direct route to San Francisco. Accordingly, in 1858 this Los Angeles to-Salt Lake City route was discontinued and the original route of 1851 was re-established and put upon an improved basis.

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The Evolution of Muroc: From Desert Wasteland to Aviation and Racing Hub

Geological and Environmental Background

Pleistocene Era (circa 2.5 million years ago) The origins of Rogers Dry Lake, located in the Antelope Valley within the Mojave Desert, trace back to the Pleistocene Era, around 2.5 million years ago. As a pluvial lake, it boasts an incredibly flat, smooth, and hard surface, which can withstand pressures up to 250 psi. These unique geological characteristics made Rogers Dry Lake a natural choice for aviation and automotive speed trials. Covering approximately 65 square miles, the lakebed forms a rough figure eight and is known for its harsh climate, experiencing extreme temperatures, violent dust storms, and mesmerizing sunsets.

Early Settlement and Development

Pre-1876: Sparse Population and Railroad Expansion Before significant settlement, the area was primarily inhabited by occasional prospectors searching for mineral wealth. The Southern Pacific Railroad established a water stop near the lakebed in 1876. In 1882, the Santa Fe Railroad extended westward from Barstow toward Mojave, establishing another water stop at the edge of what was then called Rodriguez Dry Lake. By the early 1900s, the name “Rodriguez” had been anglicized to “Rogers.”

1910: The Corum Family and the Founding of Muroc In 1910, the Corum family settled at the lakebed, naming the area “Muroc” by reversing their last name after their original choice, “Corum,” was rejected due to its similarity to “Coram, California.” The Corum family established a general store and post office, attracting other homesteaders and helping to develop the area. Their efforts laid the foundation for what would become a significant site in both aviation and automotive history.

Early Racing Events

1920s: The Dawn of Speed Events Muroc Dry Lake became a prominent site for American Automobile Association (AAA) sanctioned speed events during the 1920s. The affordability and modifiability of the Model T made it the preferred vehicle for early hot rodders. Roadsters were favored among racers, but touring cars were also frequently raced. In May 1923, Joe Nikrent set a speed record of 108.24 miles per hour in a stripped-down Buick. The following year, Tommy Milton achieved 151.26 mph in a Miller-powered race car. In 1927, Frank Lockhart reached a speed of 171 miles per hour, further cementing Muroc’s reputation as a premier racing venue.

October 9, 1927: Southern California Champion Sweepstakes One of the most significant early racing events was the Southern California Champion Sweepstakes, held on October 9, 1927. Organized by Earl Mansell from Pasadena, California, the event featured five classes of competition:

  1. Ford Roadsters: Open to any Ford roadster with or without fenders or windshields, requiring a hood and turtle deck.
  2. Ford Coupes: Required fenders, hood, windshield, and doors.
  3. Ford Touring Cars: Fenders and windshields were optional.
  4. Special Flathead Race: Open to any body style with a flathead engine, offering refunded entry fees to winners of the previous events.
  5. Championship Sweepstakes: Open to any roadster, coupe, or touring car, with the option to race without windshield or fenders.

Organized Racing and the SCTA

1931: The First Organized Speed Trials In 1931, one of the first known organized amateur speed trials took place at Muroc, sponsored by Gilmore Oil Company of Los Angeles and organized by George Wight, owner of Bell Auto Parts. Recognizing the need for coordinated rules and regulations, Wight invited hot rodders to an organizational meeting in East Los Angeles. Early rules categorized cars based on engine types, including Model T flatheads, Model T Rajos, Model T Frontenacs and Chevrolets, Model A flatheads, and Model A overhead valve conversions. Supercharged cars were not allowed to compete. The first organized meet was held on March 25, 1931, followed by another on April 19, 1931. Safety measures were implemented, such as a 40 mph speed limit for returning cars and penalties for jumping the start.

Formation of the Muroc Racing Association By the end of 1931, the Muroc Racing Association was formed, complete with officers and a race program. The association collected a one-dollar entry fee to cover expenses, and the Purdy Brothers developed an electrical timer to clock the cars’ speeds, further formalizing the events.

1932-1933: Changes in Classification In 1932, the trials continued under the same rules, but significant changes in car classification were introduced. Cars were now categorized as either stock-bodied or modified. Stock-bodied cars could have certain parts removed, while modified cars were significantly altered. Between the 1932 and 1933 seasons, classifications shifted to speed and body type, with new classes based on potential top speeds. This change aimed to ensure fairness and safety, with measures like painting speedometers with white shoe polish to prevent drivers from knowing their exact speed.

Military Establishment and World War II

September 1933: The Arrival of the Army In 1933, the United States Army arrived at Muroc, recognizing the lakebed’s potential as an airfield. The Muroc Bombing and Gunnery Range was established, and by 1937, the United States Army Air Corps set up Muroc Air Field for training and testing purposes.

World War II and the Establishment of Muroc Army Air Base During World War II, Muroc Army Air Base was activated, serving as a major training site for bomber crews and fighter pilots. The flat, hard surface of Rogers Dry Lake was ideal for aircraft testing, including early jet planes like the Bell XP-59A and the Lockheed XP-80. On October 1, 1942, the Bell XP-59A Airacomet, America’s first jet plane, made its first flight at Muroc. The base played a crucial role in the war effort, training crews and testing new aircraft.

Post-War Developments After the war, Muroc continued to be a central hub for aviation research and development. The Bell X-1, piloted by Capt. Charles E. “Chuck” Yeager, broke the sound barrier on October 14, 1947, marking a significant milestone in aviation history. The base was renamed Edwards Air Force Base in February 1948 in honor of Capt. Glen W. Edwards, who died in a test flight accident. By 1950, Edwards Air Force Base was officially dedicated and recognized as the U.S. Air Force Flight Test Center (AFFTC).

The Hot Rodding Era

Post-War Racing and El Mirage The end of World War II marked a transition from racing activities at Muroc to El Mirage, another dry lakebed south of the air base. While El Mirage was not as ideal as Muroc, it continued to host hot rodding events. The SCTA (Southern California Timing Association) organized several “reunion” races at Muroc in 1995, bringing together a generation of racers who had participated in early SCTA events. However, racing activities at Muroc were halted following the events of September 11, 2001, due to security concerns.

Legacy and Continued Significance

Aviation and Hot Rodding Heritage Muroc’s dual legacy as a pioneering site for both aviation and hot rodding remains significant. Edwards Air Force Base continues to be a premier flight testing center, contributing to numerous advancements in aerospace technology. Meanwhile, the early days of hot rodding at Muroc are fondly remembered by enthusiasts and are considered a foundational period in the history of American motorsports.

Current Status and Future Prospects While racing activities at Muroc have ceased, El Mirage remains an active site for hot rodding events. The SCTA continues to organize races, preserving the spirit and tradition of early speed trials. There is hope that, in the future, Muroc might once again host racing events, allowing the sands to echo with the sounds of high-speed automotive competition.

In conclusion, Muroc’s history is a testament to its unique geographical features and its adaptability, serving as a critical site for both military aviation and automotive racing. The integration of these diverse historical elements highlights Muroc’s significant contribution to American technological and cultural heritage.

The Mourning Dove Song

Three short, sad notes the Mourning doves call to each other from bunches of thick green leaves in the cottonwood trees. The heat pushes up the canyon, and the bright sun chases the shadows into themselves the way a mirage disappears as you approach.

Boots crunched softly in the thick sand along the trail and spotted lizards dart frantically in the low scrub. The pointed ears of a coyote catch your attention as it leaps over a clump of gray grass to pounce on a squirrel eating a seed. A tortoise marches on steadfastly and fearless in his search for a mate. A cottontail nibbles on a juicy young leaf and listens closely to every scratch and pop.

The late morning finally gives way, and high noon approaches as bold as a bully. The air is clear and hot. The sun burns the back of your hands, bringing salt to your dry lips. Your forehead tingles; you push the brim of your hat back and tilt your head forward a bit to keep your face in the shade.

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Stage Stops & Relay Stations

Stagecoach relay stations and accommodations were vital for the stagecoach travel system, especially during the 18th and 19th centuries. These stations were strategically located along stagecoach routes to ensure efficient travel and the well-being of passengers, horses, and drivers.

Relay Stations

Relay stations, also known as “staging posts” or “stage stops,” were positioned every 10 to 20 miles along the route. Their primary purpose was to provide fresh horses for the stagecoach, as they would be exhausted after traveling long distances. At these stations, tired horses were replaced with rested ones, ensuring the stagecoach could maintain a steady pace without long delays.

Key features of relay stations included:

  • Stables: For housing and caring for horses.
  • Feed and Water: Ample supplies of food and water for the horses.
  • Blacksmith Services: For shoeing horses and making necessary repairs to the stagecoach.
  • Shelter: Basic accommodations for passengers if they need a brief rest.

Accommodations

Beyond just relay stations, more substantial accommodations were often provided at larger intervals or significant points along the route. These accommodations varied widely, ranging from simple inns to more elaborate hotels, depending on the route’s location and prominence.

Key features of stagecoach accommodations included:

  • Sleeping Quarters: Rooms for passengers to rest overnight, often shared with other travelers.
  • Dining Facilities: Meals were provided, typically hearty and designed to sustain travelers for the next leg of their journey.
  • Lounge Areas: Common rooms where passengers could relax, socialize, and recover from the journey.
  • Washrooms: Basic facilities for washing up, although these were often quite rudimentary by modern standards.
  • Repair Services: Facilities to fix any damage to the stagecoach or passenger belongings.

The Experience

Traveling by stagecoach was often uncomfortable and tiring. Roads could be rough, and the constant need to change horses meant frequent stops. However, relay stations and accommodations provided necessary breaks and a chance for passengers to stretch their legs, eat, and rest. These stops were crucial for the safety and efficiency of the stagecoach system, making long-distance travel more manageable during this era.

Despite the hardships, stagecoach travel was an essential part of life, enabling communication, commerce, and transportation across vast distances before the advent of the railroad and the automobile.

Overview of Desert Stagecoach Lines Before Railroads

Before railroads revolutionized transportation, stagecoaches were a critical means of public transport across the desert regions. Here are some key stage lines and their operations:

  1. Goldfield Stage (1905): This stage provided transportation services in the Goldfield area.
  2. Applewhite’s Stage: This stage used a three-bench buggy to transport miners from Calico to town for business and lodging.
  3. Arizona Overland Mail (1866-1868): Initially, it was a weekly mail service from Camp Drum to Prescott, Arizona, which later became twice-weekly. It overcame significant challenges, including Indian troubles.
  4. Barnwell to Death Valley Route: A daily stage route from Barnwell to Manse, Nevada, that remained crucial for travelers and miners even after the completion of the Salt Lake Railroad.
  5. Barnwell to Searchlight Stage Line: Operated until 1906 when the Barnwell & Searchlight Railroad commenced.
  6. Black Canyon Stage Station: A stop for the Panamint Transportation Company along the Black Canyon route.
  7. Brooklyn Well: A stage stop on the Dale to Amboy route, providing necessary water and rest.
  8. Butterfield Overland Stage Company (1858-1860): A major mail route running from Missouri to California, passing through the Mojave Desert.
  9. Calico Stage Line (1): Operated between Daggett and Calico from 1885 to 1887 using a six-horse Concord Coach.
  10. Calico Stage Line (2): Provided twice-daily trips between Calico and Daggett with improved coaches and horses.
  11. California Southern Stage Line: Connected Calico with Barstow and San Bernardino.
  12. Cottonwood Stage Station: A notable station that was raided in 1875 by Cleovaro Chavez’s gang.
  13. Crackerjack Auto Transit Company (1907): Introduced auto-stage services between Silver Lake and Crackerjack.
  14. Daggett & Skidoo Stage Line: Operated through Black Canyon.
  15. Dale to Amboy Stage Line (1903-1916): Known as the Buckboard Stage, this line included lunch in its $5 fare.
  16. Death Valley Chug Line (1907): An auto-stage operated by “Alkali Bill” Brong, transporting passengers around Death Valley.
  17. Domingo Stage & Freight (1887): Ran from Providence to Fenner, primarily hauling ore.
  18. Goldstone-Los Angeles Auto Stage: Provided bi-weekly trips between Los Angeles and Goldstone.
  19. Harrison’s Calico Express Line (1882): Connected San Bernardino with Calico, taking a day and a half each way.
  20. Huntington Stage: The first public transport service between San Bernardino and Calico.
  21. Livingstone & Cahill Stage Line: Operated between Barstow, Daggett, and Calico.
  22. Mecham’s Panamint Stage (1874): Charged $30 for a one-way trip from San Bernardino to Panamint.
  23. Nipton & Searchlight Stage Line (1910): Transported passengers and freight between Searchlight and the railroad at Nipton.
  24. Orange Blossom Mining & Milling Company Stage Line (1908): Served the Orange Blossom mines and camp.
  25. Panamint Transportation Company (1873-1874): Ran from San Bernardino to Panamint City, a challenging and critical route for the time.
  26. Perew Auto Stage (1905): An innovative auto-stage line from Manvel to Searchlight.
  27. Pioneer Stage (1890s): Charged $2 for a 5-mile trip from Manvel into Vanderbilt.

These stagecoach lines were essential in connecting remote areas and facilitating commerce, mail delivery, and passenger transport before the widespread advent of railroads. They navigated rough terrain, faced threats from bandits, and dealt with challenging weather conditions to keep the region connected.

Stagecoaches and Stage Routes in the Mojave Desert

The Pioneers of the Mojave Desert: A Historical Overview

Several pioneering families and individuals significantly influenced the development of the Mojave Desert. Among them were the Stoddard brothers, Lafayette Mecham, Aaron Lane, John Brown Sr., Hieronymous Hartman, the Fears family, the Swarthout family, William Holcomb, Jed Van Duzen, Heber Huntington, and Max Stroebel. These figures played a crucial role in shaping the region’s history through their contributions to infrastructure, mining, ranching, and settlement.

The Stoddard Brothers

Sheldon Stoddard

Arvin and Sheldon Stoddard were instrumental in developing the Mojave Desert. The brothers, originally from Canada, moved to the United States and later settled in San Bernardino. They contributed to the establishment of infrastructure such as wells and roads. Arvin drilled the well-known Stoddard Well, and the brothers created Stoddard Wells Road, reducing travel time and aiding in the region’s development​ (Desert Gazette)​​ (Desert Gazette)​​ (Digital Desert)​​ (Digital Desert)​.

Lafayette Mecham

Lafayette Mecham

Lafayette Mecham was awarded a contract in 1867 to transport hay from Little Meadows to Camp Cady. He established a more direct route, which later became part of Stoddard Wells Road, and operated a station at Fish Ponds. His efforts significantly improved transportation and infrastructure in the Mojave Desert​ (Digital Desert)​​ (Digital Desert)​.

Aaron Lane

Aaron G. Lane

Aaron G. Lane was the first permanent settler on the High Desert, establishing Lane’s Crossing in 1858. Despite facing numerous challenges, including raids and threats, Lane’s settlement became a crucial waypoint for travelers and military missions, contributing to the early development of the area​ (Mojave Guide)​​ (Mojave Guide)​.

John Brown Sr.

John Brown Sr. built a toll road through the Cajon Pass in 1861, facilitating the movement of goods and people. This road, known as Brown’s Toll Road, was essential for travelers and significantly impacted the region’s development. Brown also engaged in trade with local Native American tribes and operated a ferry at Fort Mojave​ (Mojave Guide)​​ (Desert Gazette)​​ (Digital Desert)​.

Hieronymous Hartman

Hieronymous Hartman, also known as Hiram Hartman, was a rancher and prospector involved in significant mining operations, including the Hartman Tungsten Mine. Despite his contributions to the local economy, Hartman had a controversial reputation. He was a storekeeper in Calico, a booming silver mining town in the 1880s. Hartman was imprisoned for bigamy in 1900, and his wife died before his release, ironically leaving him her estate. Hartman was later killed in 1908 by Stanley Houghton, who was acquitted, indicating Hartman’s unpopularity in the community​ (Mojave Guide)​​ (Mojave Guide)​​ (Mojave History)​​ (FindAGrave)​​ (Southwest Parks)​​ (CampReview)​.

The Fears Family

The Fears family, led by James “Uncle Jim” Fears, were significant settlers in the Cajon Pass during the 1860s. They established a way station that served travelers, providing essential services and facilitating commerce. James Fears later moved to Spadra and remained there until his death​ (Digital Desert)​​ (Buckthorn Publishing)​​ (Digital Desert)​.

The Swarthout Family

The Swarthout family arrived in San Bernardino in 1851 and established themselves as prominent ranchers. Nathan, Albert, Truman, and George Swarthout owned large tracts of land and raised cattle, with the Swarthout Valley named in their honor due to their significant presence​ (Wrightwood Historical Society)​​ (Mojave Desert Archives)​.

William Holcomb

William Holcomb

William F. Holcomb discovered gold in Holcomb Valley in 1860, sparking the biggest gold rush in Southern California history. Holcomb’s discovery brought many prospectors to the area, and Holcomb Valley became a thriving mining community. His contributions to the region’s mining history are commemorated through the valley named after him​ (Digital Desert)​​ (Mojave Guide)​​ (Digital Desert)​.

Jed Van Duzen

Jed Van Duzen was a blacksmith who graded a crucial road between the Victor Valley and the San Bernardino Mountains. In 1874, he was contracted to carry the U.S. Mail from San Bernardino to Prescott, Arizona, ensuring weekly postal delivery to the Mojave River Settlement. His road played a significant role in facilitating the transport of goods and mail through the region​ (SBC Sentinel)​.

Heber Huntington

Heber Huntington operated a prominent way station in Victorville during the 1870s. He transformed the station into a trading post, providing provisions, ammunition, fresh horses, blacksmithing services, and meals, supporting the needs of travelers and settlers in the Mojave Desert​.

Max Stroebel

Maximilian Franz Otto Von Strobel

Max Stroebel purchased the entire Hesperia townsite for cash in 1870. His acquisition and subsequent development efforts contributed to the area’s growth and settlement, supporting the regional economy and infrastructure during a critical period of expansion in the Mojave Desert​ (SBC Sentinel)​.

Connections and Overlaps

The pioneers who shaped the Mojave Desert likely knew of each other or interacted due to overlapping activities, periods, and geographical regions.

  1. Stoddard Brothers and John Brown Sr.:
  2. Lafayette Mecham and the Stoddard Brothers:
  3. Aaron Lane and Other Settlers:
  4. Hieronymous Hartman:
    • Hartman’s activities in ranching and mining placed him in proximity to other significant figures in the Mojave Desert, though his controversial reputation set him apart​ (Mojave Guide)​​ (Mojave Guide)​​ (Mojave History)​​ (FindAGrave)​.
  5. Fears Family and Regional Pioneers:
  6. Swarthout Family:
  7. William Holcomb:
    • Holcomb’s gold discovery drew many to the area, likely resulting in interactions with other miners and settlers involved in the desert’s development​ (Digital Desert)​​ (Mojave Guide)​​ (Digital Desert)​.
  8. Jed Van Duzen:
    • Van Duzen’s road construction and mail delivery services connected vital areas, linking him with other pioneers involved in transportation and settlement activities in the Mojave Desert​ (SBC Sentinel)​.
  9. Heber Huntington:
    • The area now Victorville was initially known as Huntington’s Crossing, named after Heber Huntington, a Mormon pioneer who settled there in the mid-19th century. Huntington’s operation of a way station and trading post connected him with travelers and other settlers, making him a significant figure regionally.
  10. Max Stroebel:
    • Stroebel’s purchase and development of the Hesperia townsite positioned him as a key player in the expansion and economic growth of the Mojave Desert, interacting with other pioneers involved in settlement activities​ (SBC Sentinel)​.

Conclusion

These pioneers’ combined efforts significantly impacted the Mojave Desert’s development. Their work in establishing critical infrastructure, supporting community development, and their adventurous pursuits left a lasting mark on the region. Today, their names are commemorated through various landmarks, ensuring their contributions are remembered in the history of the American West.

Cudahy Camp, Old Dutch Cleanser, and the Wonders of Last Chance Canyon

Cudahy Camp: A Glimpse into the Past

Nestled in the El Paso Mountains, Cudahy Camp is a historical landmark in the early 20th-century mining industry. From 1923 to 1947, this site was the primary source of pumice used to manufacture ‘Old Dutch Cleanser,’ a widely known cleaning product in the United States. At its peak, the camp employed 12 men who produced 100 tons of pumicite weekly. Today, visitors can explore the remnants of the camp, including concrete foundations and large hollowed-out rooms from the mining operations.

The Evolution of Old Dutch Cleanser

Old Dutch Cleanser’s journey began in 1905 when the Cudahy Packing Company, a meatpacking firm, developed the product to repurpose animal fat. The cleanser, made by combining soap with pumicite, quickly became a household staple due to its effectiveness. The brand’s logo, featuring a Dutch woman chasing dirt with a stick, symbolized cleanliness and helped the product gain widespread recognition.

In the 1920s and 1930s, Old Dutch Cleanser was heavily promoted through advertisements and civic events like “Clean-Up Week,” encouraging community participation in cleaning efforts. These campaigns solidified the product’s place in American homes and contributed to its lasting legacy.

Corporate Changes and Present-Day

In 1955, Purex acquired Old Dutch Cleanser from the Cudahy Packing Company. The brand changed hands again in 1985 when Greyhound Corporation’s Dial division purchased Purex. Despite these transitions, Old Dutch Cleanser remained a trusted cleaning product. It is manufactured by Lavo in Montreal and continues to uphold its reputation for quality (6/2024).

Last Chance Canyon: A Scenic and Historic Site

Last Chance Canyon, part of the El Paso Mountains, is a significant historical and natural site. It offers a unique glimpse into the area’s rich mining history, including the famous Burro Schmidt Tunnel. The canyon features a rugged landscape with geological formations, box canyons, and historical mining sites. This area was heavily mined from the 1890s through the 1920s, with various operations continuing into the late 20th century.

Visitors to Last Chance Canyon can explore the remains of mining camps, such as Bickel Camp and the Holly Ash Mine, alongside the Old Dutch Cleanser mining site. The canyon is also known for its beautiful scenery, including rock-walled sandy canyons and spectacular layered cliffs.

Cultural Significance and Enduring Legacy

Old Dutch Cleanser has significantly impacted American culture, from being featured in popular media to becoming part of civic traditions. Its memorable branding and consistent advertising have made it a recognizable name in household cleaning. The El Paso Mountains and Last Chance Canyon now serve as historical sites, offering a window into the past for those interested in industrial history and heritage.

For more details, you can visit the Old Dutch Cleanser history page and read about the Cudahy Camp and Last Chance Canyon online.

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Indian Trails in the Mojave Desert

The Mojave Desert, an expansive arid region spanning southeastern California and parts of Nevada, Arizona, and Utah, is more than just a vast, desolate landscape. It is a land imbued with a rich cultural history, much of which is etched into the ancient Indian trails that crisscross its terrain. These trails are a deep connection to the land possessed by the indigenous peoples who once called this desert home.

Historical Significance

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The Indian trails of the Mojave Desert were primarily created and used by Native American tribes such as the Mojave, Chemehuevi, and Southern Paiute. These tribes utilized the trails for various purposes, including trade, communication, and seasonal migration. The network of trails facilitated the exchange of goods like pottery, shells, foodstuffs, and obsidian, linking the Mojave Desert with coastal and inland regions. This trade network was integral to the economy and culture of the tribes, allowing for the spread of ideas, technologies, and cultural practices.

The trails were not merely utilitarian. They often held spiritual and cultural significance, following natural landmarks and water sources. Sacred sites, ceremonial grounds, and essential gathering places were often along these trails. This cultural layer adds depth to understanding these pathways, illustrating how they were interwoven with the people’s social and spiritual lives.

The Old Spanish Trail

One of the most notable trails is the Old Spanish Trail, which later became a significant route for Spanish explorers and settlers in the 18th and 19th centuries. Blazed initially by Native Americans, this trail stretched from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to Los Angeles, California. The Spanish utilized these established paths to connect their colonial holdings, facilitating trade and the movement of people and goods. The trail highlights the continuity of use by various cultures over centuries, transforming from an indigenous trade route to a significant conduit of colonial expansion.

The Old Spanish Trail was a challenging route, traversing some of the harshest landscapes in North America. Its use by both Native Americans and later Spanish settlers underscores the adaptability and resourcefulness required to navigate the Mojave Desert.

Adaptation to the Desert Environment

The Indian trails of the Mojave Desert showcase the adaptive strategies of Native Americans to the harsh desert environment. The tribes identified and utilized natural springs and seasonal water sources, ensuring safe passage across the expansive and often unforgiving terrain. These water sources were crucial, as they provided the necessary hydration points along the trails. Knowledge of these water sources was passed down through generations, often guarded closely as essential survival information.

The trails frequently ran along the base of mountain ranges and through passes, providing more accessible routes than the open desert. These paths took advantage of the natural topography to offer shade, easier walking conditions, and strategic viewpoints. The trails also connected various ecological zones, allowing the tribes to exploit various resources, from desert plants to mountain game.

Cultural Legacy

Today, the Indian trails of the Mojave Desert are an integral part of the region’s cultural heritage. Many of these trails are preserved and studied by archaeologists and historians, offering insights into the historical movements and lifestyles of the indigenous populations. Modern-day hikers, historians, and cultural enthusiasts retrace these paths, gaining a deeper understanding of the rich history and enduring legacy of the Native American tribes who first navigated the vast Mojave Desert.

Preservation efforts are crucial in maintaining these historic routes. Many trails are threatened by modern development, off-road vehicle use, and natural erosion. Organizations dedicated to preserving Native American heritage work tirelessly to document and protect these trails, ensuring they remain a living testament to the ingenuity and resilience of the desert’s original inhabitants.

Contemporary Relevance

In recent years, interest has been resurgent in these ancient trails. Educational programs, guided tours, and cultural heritage projects aim to bring the stories of these paths to a broader audience. Indigenous groups also play a vital role in these efforts, sharing their knowledge and perspectives to preserve and respect the trails as sacred cultural sites.

The trails also offer lessons in sustainable living and environmental stewardship. The indigenous peoples of the Mojave Desert thrived in a harsh environment through a deep understanding of the land and its resources. Their trails remind us of the importance of living in harmony with nature, an increasingly relevant lesson today.

Conclusion

The Indian trails of the Mojave Desert are more than just paths across the sand; they are the veins of a rich cultural heritage, connecting the past with the present. They tell stories of trade, migration, survival, and spiritual journeying etched into the desert’s landscape. As we explore and preserve these trails, we honor the legacy of the Native American tribes that first navigated the Mojave Desert, ensuring that their stories and knowledge continue to inspire and educate future generations.

Horse Stealing in the American West: A Complex Saga of Survival, Conflict, and Lawlessness

In the mid-19th century, the American West was a land of vast open spaces, sparse settlements, and a constant struggle for survival. Among the various challenges faced by settlers, Native Americans, and other inhabitants of the region, horse stealing emerged as a significant and often dangerous activity. This essay explores the multifaceted nature of horse stealing, its impact on different communities, and the notable figures involved in these activities, focusing on the Mojave Desert and surrounding areas.

Historical Context and Importance of Horses

Horses were introduced to North America by Spanish explorers in the 16th century and quickly became integral to the way of life for many Native American tribes. By the 19th century, horses were indispensable for transportation, labor, hunting, and warfare. For settlers and ranchers, horses were crucial assets, representing significant economic value and practical utility.

The California Gold Rush of the late 1840s brought settlers to the region, intensifying resource competition and escalating conflicts between different groups. Horses’ value made them prime targets for theft, and horse stealing became a widespread problem, contributing to the lawlessness and violence that characterized much of the frontier.

Techniques and Tactics of Horse Stealing

Horse stealing requires a combination of skill, knowledge, and audacity. Thieves often operated in bands, using well-planned tactics to carry out their raids. These tactics included:

  1. Night Raids: Most horse thefts occurred at night when thieves took advantage of the darkness to avoid detection and increase their chances of a successful escape.
  2. Remote Trails: Thieves used remote trails and difficult terrain to evade pursuers. Their knowledge of the landscape was a significant advantage, allowing them to move swiftly and remain hidden.
  3. Speed and Surprise: The element of surprise was crucial. Thieves would strike quickly, gather as many horses as possible, and leave before the victims could organize a response.
  4. Dispersal and Fencing: Stolen horses were often dispersed among various locations or quickly sold to fences, making it difficult for the rightful owners to recover them.

Notable Figures in Horse Stealing

Several prominent figures became infamous for their involvement in horse stealing. Their stories highlight the complexities and contradictions of frontier life.

Walkara: The Ute Leader

Walkara, also known as Chief Walker, was a Ute leader born around 1808. He became one of the most feared and respected figures in the Great Basin and Mojave Desert regions due to his prowess in horse stealing. Leading numerous raids from Utah into California, Walkara amassed thousands of horses. His knowledge of the terrain and guerrilla tactics made him a formidable opponent. Despite his reputation as a horse thief, Walkara was also a shrewd leader and negotiator, embodying the dual roles of protector and predator standard among Native American leaders of the time.

Jim Beckwourth: The Adventurous Frontiersman

James P. Beckwourth, a mixed-race mountain man, fur trader, and explorer, was born into slavery in 1798 and gained his freedom to become one of the most colorful figures of the American frontier. While primarily known for his role as a trader and guide, Beckwourth’s interactions with various Native American tribes, including the Crow, often placed him amid horse raiding activities. His involvement in horse stealing adds another layer to his multifaceted legacy, reflecting the blurred lines between legitimate trade and outlaw activities on the frontier.

Peg-leg Smith: The Notorious Thief

Thomas L. “Peg-leg” Smith, born in 1801, was notorious for horse-stealing raids across the Southwest. Known for his wooden leg, Smith conducted large-scale raids on Mexican ranchos, stealing hundreds of horses and driving them north to American markets. His daring exploits and cunning escapes made him a legendary figure in Western folklore, contributing to the mythos of the Wild West. Smith’s activities disrupted the economies of the regions he targeted and highlighted the challenges of maintaining law and order in the frontier.

The Case of Indian Joaquin

Indian Joaquin, also known as Joaquin Valenzuela, was another significant figure in horse stealing. His band of outlaws, including the Mojave Desert, was active in California and was known for their bold raids. In 1845, Governor Pio Pico sent Benjamin Davis Wilson to lead an expedition against these horse thieves. Wilson’s mission culminated in a confrontation where he shot and killed Indian Joaquin. This event marked a significant moment in the struggle between settlers and Native American bands, illustrating the harsh measures taken to protect property and assert dominance in the region.

Responses to Horse Stealing

The persistent threat of horse stealing led to various responses from both military and civilian authorities:

  1. Military Patrols: Increased military presence and patrols aimed to protect settlements and ranchos from raids. Forts and outposts were established strategically to serve as bases for these operations.
  2. Vigilance Committees: Settlers often formed vigilance committees to protect their property and pursue horse thieves. These groups operated outside formal legal structures, using extrajudicial methods to capture and punish suspected thieves.
  3. Negotiations and Treaties: In some cases, attempts were made to negotiate with raiding groups to establish peace and trade agreements. However, these efforts were often temporary and depended on the shifting dynamics of power and resources.

Impact and Legacy

The impact of horse stealing in the American West was profound, influencing economic stability, social dynamics, and cultural interactions. The legacy of horse stealing includes:

  1. Economic Disruption: The theft of horses had significant economic implications, disrupting transportation, labor, and trade. For many settlers, losing horses meant a critical setback in establishing livelihoods in the harsh frontier environment.
  2. Cultural Tensions: Horse stealing exacerbated tensions between different cultural groups, including Native Americans, Mexican landowners, and American settlers. These tensions often led to violent confrontations and shaped the broader patterns of conflict in the region.
  3. Folklore and Mythology: The exploits of horse thieves and the responses to their activities became part of the folklore of the American West. Stories of daring raids, cunning escapes, and brutal reprisals contributed to the mythos of the Wild West, reflecting the complexities of frontier life.
  4. Law and Order: The persistent threat of horse stealing highlighted the challenges of maintaining law and order in the rapidly expanding frontier. Responses to this threat, including military actions and vigilance committees, underscored the often violent efforts to establish security and protect property.

Conclusion

Horse stealing in the American West, particularly in the Mojave Desert and surrounding regions, was a complex phenomenon that significantly shaped the frontier’s history and culture. The activities of Walkara, Jim Beckwourth, Peg-leg Smith, and Indian Joaquin illustrate the multifaceted nature of horse stealing, reflecting broader themes of survival, resistance, and adaptation in a rapidly changing landscape.

The responses to horse stealing, from military patrols to vigilance committees, highlight the ongoing struggle to establish order and protect property in a region marked by turmoil and conflict. The legacy of horse stealing, with its economic, social, and cultural impacts, continues to be a fascinating and integral part of the history of the American West. Through the stories of these notorious figures and the broader patterns of conflict and adaptation, we gain valuable insights into the dynamic and often chaotic nature of 19th-century frontier life.

#3 – Kelso Depot

Kelso Station - Union Pacific Railroad

Kelso Depot, also known as the Kelso Depot Visitor Center, is a historic railroad station in the Mojave Desert within the Mojave National Preserve in California. It serves as a significant historical landmark, offering insights into the region’s railroad history and the broader story of the American West.

History and Significance

Construction and Early Years

The Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad, later absorbed by the Union Pacific Railroad, constructed Kelso Depot in 1923. The depot was strategically located at Kelso, a small community that sprang up primarily to serve the railroad and the nearby mining operations. The location was chosen because it provided a crucial water stop for steam locomotives and a place to house “helper” engines needed to assist trains over the steep grades of Cima Hill.

Architectural Style

The depot was built in the Spanish Mission Revival style, popular in the southwestern United States during the early 20th century. The building features stucco walls, a red tile roof, and a distinctive colonnade, reflecting the architectural trends of the time. The depot included passenger waiting rooms, a telegraph office, and a restaurant known as the “Beanery,” which served meals to passengers and railroad employees.

Role During the Boom Years

Kelso Depot played a vital role during the peak years of rail traffic. It was a bustling hub for both freight and passenger services. The surrounding area saw significant economic activity due to nearby borax and iron ore mining operations. The depot was an essential stop on the Los Angeles to Salt Lake City route, facilitating the transport of goods and passengers across the desert.

Decline and Abandonment

The need for water stops and helper engines diminished with the advent of diesel locomotives in the mid-20th century. As a result, the importance of Kelso Depot declined. Passenger service was discontinued in 1964, and the depot eventually closed in 1985. The building fell into disrepair and was at risk of demolition.

Preservation and Restoration

Inclusion in Mojave National Preserve

In 1994, the Mojave National Preserve was established, and efforts began to preserve the historical and cultural resources within the area. Recognizing the historical significance of Kelso Depot, the National Park Service (NPS) took on the task of restoring the building.

Restoration Efforts

The restoration of Kelso Depot was a major undertaking by the NPS. The project aimed to return the building to its former glory and adapt it as a visitor center and museum. The restoration preserved many of the depot’s original architectural features while making necessary updates to meet modern safety and accessibility standards.

Kelso Depot Visitor Center

Exhibits and Interpretation

Today, Kelso Depot serves as the primary visitor center for the Mojave National Preserve. It houses a variety of exhibits that explore the natural and cultural history of the Mojave Desert. Displays cover topics such as the geology, flora, and fauna of the region, as well as the history of mining, railroads, and early settlers.

Visitor Amenities

The visitor center offers a range of amenities for park visitors. These include an information desk, interpretive displays, a small bookstore, and public restrooms. The restored “Beanery” provides a glimpse into the dining experiences of early 20th-century railroad travelers.

Educational Programs and Events

Kelso Depot also hosts educational programs and special events throughout the year. Ranger-led tours, interpretive talks, and community events help to engage visitors and deepen their understanding of the Mojave National Preserve’s rich history and natural beauty.

Conclusion

Kelso Depot is a testament to the railroad’s transformative impact on the American West. Its preservation and restoration provide a valuable link to the past, allowing visitors to step back and appreciate the challenges and triumphs of those who lived and worked in the Mojave Desert. Through its exhibits, programs, and architectural beauty, Kelso Depot continues to educate and inspire new generations about the unique history of this remarkable region.

#5 – Mojave National Preserve: A Vast Desert Wilderness

/mojave-preserve/

The Mojave National Preserve, encompassing over 1.6 million acres, offers diverse landscapes, wildlife, and recreational activities. Located in southeastern California, the preserve is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers. Here’s an expanded look at what makes the Mojave National Preserve a popular destination:

Key Features and Attractions

  1. Kelso Dunes:
    • Dune Field: Covering over 45 square miles, the Kelso Dunes are some of the tallest dunes in North America, with the highest peak rising about 650 feet.
    • Hiking and Exploration: Visitors can hike to the top of the dunes for panoramic views and experience the phenomenon of “singing sands,” a booming sound produced by the movement of the sand.
    • Sunset Views: The dunes are stunning at sunset when the shifting light creates dramatic shadows and colors.
  2. Hole-in-the-Wall:
    • Geological Features: This area is named for its unique rock formations created by volcanic activity and erosion. The walls are filled with holes and cavities, giving the area its distinctive appearance.
    • Rings Loop Trail: A popular 1.5-mile loop trail that features metal rings bolted into the rock to help hikers navigate steep sections of the trail. The trail offers a close-up view of the fascinating rock formations.
    • Visitor Center: The Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center provides exhibits on the area’s geology, wildlife, and cultural history.
  3. Cinder Cone Lava Beds:
    • Volcanic Landscape: This area features ancient volcanic cones, lava flows, and craters, offering a rugged and dramatic landscape.
    • Hiking Trails: Trails wind through the lava beds, providing opportunities to explore the unique terrain and view the surrounding desert.
  4. Mitchell Caverns:
    • Limestone Caves: Located in the Providence Mountains State Recreation Area, these caverns are filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and other fascinating formations.
    • Guided Tours: The only way to explore the caverns is through guided tours offered by California State Parks, which provide insights into the caves’ geological history and natural features.
  5. Mojave Road:
    • Historic Route: The Mojave Road is a historic 140-mile off-road trail that follows a route used by Native Americans, early explorers, and settlers. It provides a challenging and adventurous way to experience the preserve.
    • Landmarks: Along the route, travelers can see historic sites, old military forts, and natural landmarks. The route requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle and careful planning.

Wildlife and Plant Life

  • Desert Flora: The preserve has various desert plants, including Joshua trees, creosote bushes, cacti, and wildflowers. Springtime can bring vibrant blooms, adding color to the landscape.
  • Wildlife: The preserve’s diverse habitats support a wide range of wildlife, including bighorn sheep, coyotes, desert tortoises, and numerous bird species. The varying elevations and environments within the preserve create unique ecosystems.

Recreational Activities

  1. Hiking:
    • Diverse Trails: The preserve offers a range of hiking trails, from short nature walks to strenuous backcountry routes. Trails provide opportunities to explore the varied landscapes and observe the native flora and fauna.
    • Backpacking: For those seeking a more immersive experience, the preserve offers backcountry camping and backpacking opportunities. Permits are required for overnight stays.
  2. Camping:
    • Developed Campgrounds: The preserve has several developed campgrounds, including Hole-in-the-Wall and Mid Hills, which offer amenities such as picnic tables, fire rings, and restrooms.
    • Dispersed Camping: For a more primitive experience, visitors can camp in designated areas throughout the preserve. Dispersed camping allows for solitude and a closer connection with nature.
  3. Stargazing:
    • Dark Skies: The remote location of the preserve provides excellent conditions for stargazing. The lack of light pollution allows for clear views of the night sky, making it a perfect spot for observing stars, planets, and meteor showers.
  4. Bird Watching:
    • Diverse Bird Species: The varied habitats within the preserve attract a wide range of bird species, making it a popular destination for bird watchers. Seasonal migrations and diverse environments provide opportunities to see both resident and migratory birds.
  5. Off-Roading:
    • Designated Routes: The preserve has numerous designated off-road vehicle routes, offering adventurous ways to explore the rugged terrain. It’s important to stay on designated routes to protect the environment and adhere to regulations.

Historical and Cultural Sites

  • Kelso Depot: A restored 1924 Union Pacific train depot now serving as the preserve’s visitor center. The depot features exhibits on the history of the railroad, mining, and desert communities.
  • Rock Springs Land and Cattle Company: Historical ranch buildings and corrals that provide a glimpse into the ranching history of the area.

Conservation and Preservation

  • Protected Area: The Mojave National Preserve is managed by the National Park Service, protecting its unique landscapes, wildlife, and cultural resources.
  • Leave No Trace: Visitors are encouraged to practice Leave No Trace principles, minimizing their impact on the environment and helping to preserve the preserve’s natural beauty and integrity.

Visitor Information

  • Accessibility: The preserve is accessible via Interstate 15 and Interstate 40, with several entry points and visitor centers providing information and resources.
  • Seasonal Considerations: The best times to visit are spring and fall when temperatures are moderate. Summer temperatures can be extreme, and winter can bring cold nights and occasional snow at higher elevations.

The Mojave National Preserve offers a diverse and captivating landscape with countless opportunities for exploration and adventure. Whether hiking through rugged canyons, climbing towering dunes, or simply soaking in the vast desert vistas, the preserve provides a memorable and enriching experience for all who visit.