Geography – Notes

The California Southern

As to the Atlantic and Pacific, it suffered in common with other similar enterprises from the financial crash of 1873 and subsequently entered into a combination with the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe, and that St. Louis and San Francisco railroad companies, which gave the Atchison road a half interest in the charter of the Atlantic and Pacific, owned by the St Louis company, to which a valuable land grant attached. The two companies constructed, jointly, from the main line of the Atchison road at Albuquerque west to the Colorado at the Needles, between 1879 and 1883, with the intention of carrying their road thence to Los Angeles and San Francisco. But at this juncture the Southern Pacific again stopped the way.

The California Southern Railroad was chartered October 12, 1880, to construct a line from San Diego to San Bernardino, and the California Southern Extension company was chartered May 23, 1881, to extend this road to a connection with the Atlantic and Pacific in California, at a point about eighty miles northeast of San Bernardino. The two companies consolidated under the name of the first above-mentioned, and the road was completed to Colton in August 1882 and opened from San Diego to San Bernardino on September 13, 1883.

Soon afterward the Southern Pacific, obtaining through the purchase of stock a share in the management, secured the extension of the Atlantic and Pacific to the Colorado at the Needles, which compelled it to connect there with the former. This had nearly been a death-blow to the California Southern, which had suffered much, not only by opposition, but by floods in the Temecula canon, which rendered impassable thirty miles of its track, carrying bridges and ties entirely away, some being seen a hundred miles at sea. It must not only rebuild this thirty miles, but in order to reach the Atlantic and Pacific, must construct 300 miles of new road over mountain and desert, instead of the 80 miles as first intended. For several months the directors hesitated. But finally the Southern Pacific determined to sell to the California Southern the road from the Needles to Mojave, built by the Pacific Improvement company, the successor of the Western Development company. The transfer took place in October 1884, and the California Southern at once recommenced construction and repairs, and in November 1885 opened its line from San Diego to Barstow. In October 1886, it formally passed under the control of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe company, and was operated as a division of that road. Thus after ten years of struggle, two of the eastern roads effected an entrance into California.

histofcalifvol724bancmiss.pdf 629-631/850

California to Salt Lake City

THE OVERLAND MAIL
1849-1869
Promoter of Settlement
Precursor of Railroads by
LE ROY R. HAFEN, PH.D .
Historian, The Stale Historical and Natural History Society of Colorado

The first United States mail between California and Salt Lake City was established in 1851. This route was advertised January 27, 1851, and the thirty-seven bids received ranged from $20,000 for “horseback or two horse coach service,” to $200,000 per year for service with ” 135 pack animals with 45 men, divided into three parties.” One bid was for a four-horse coach with a guard of six men, at $135,000 per year. The lowest bid was accepted and a contract was made in April with Absalom Woodward and George Chorpenning for a monthly service at $14,000 per year; the trip each way was to be made in thirty days. No points were designated at which the route should touch, but it was to go “by the then traveled trail, considered about 910 miles long.”

Chorpenning and his men left Sacramento May 1, 1851, with the first mail. They had great difficulty in reaching Carson valley, having had to beat down the snow with wooden mauls to open a trail for their animals over the Sierras. For sixteen days and nights they struggled through and camped upon deep snow. Upon reaching Carson valley, Chorpenning staked off in the usual western manner, a quarter section of land and arranged to establish a mail station. The town of Genoa, Nevada, grew-up on this site. Chorpenning and several men continued eastward and reached Salt Lake City June 5th, having been delayed somewhat by snow in the Goose Creek mountains.

Throughout the summer, difficulties were experienced with the Indians; and Woodward, who left Sacramento with the November mail, was killed by them just west of Malad River in northern Utah. The December and January mails from Sacramento were forced to return on account of deep snow, but the February (1852) mail was pushed through by way of the Feather River Pass and reached Salt Lake City in sixty days. The carriers endured frightful sufferings; owing to the fact that their horses were frozen to death in the Goose Creek mountains, they had to go the last two hundred miles to Salt Lake City on foot. Permission was obtained from the special agent in San Francisco to send the March mail down the coast to San Pedro and thence by the Cajon Pass and the Mormon trail to Salt Lake City. During the summer of 1852 the service continued to be performed across northern Nevada by way of the Humboldt River; but as winter approached, arrangements were made with the mail agent at San Francisco to carry the Utah mail via Los Angeles during the winter months. The Carson valley post office was supplied monthly by a carrier on snow-shoes. Fred Bishop and Dritt were the first carriers and they were succeeded by George Pierce and John A. Thompson. The latter, “Snowshoe Thompson,” a Norwegian by birth, made himself famous in this section by his feats on snow-shoes during succeeding winters. The shoes used were ten feet long and of the Canadian pattern. He often took one hundred pounds upon the journey between Placerville and Carson, and made the trip in three days to Placerville and the return journey in two days.

With the interruption by bad weather of the mail service east of Salt Lake City, the mail was sent westward to San Pedro, where it was transmitted by steamer to the Atlantic seaboard. This increased the weight of Chorpenning mail from about one hundred pounds to about five hundred pounds. For this additional service Chorpenning made claim and in 1857 received payment on a pro rata basis.

The causes of the irregularity and interruption of the mail service to Utah had not been explained to the Postmaster-general by the Special Agent at San Francisco and so, upon the grounds of the derangement of the service, the Postmaster-general annulled the contract with Chorpenning, and made one with W. L. Blanchard of California. The new contractor was to receive $50,000 per year, and was to maintain a fortified post at Carson valley. Upon learning of this new arrangement in January, 1853, Chorpenning set out for Washington and, after setting forth his case before the new Postmaster-general, was reinstated. A verbal agreement was made that the compensation should be increased to $30,000 per year and permission was given to carry the mails via San Pedro during the winter months.

During the first three years (1851-4) the Utah-California mail was carried except in winter, by the old emigrant route. This route lay from Sacramento
through Folsom, Placerville, along the old road through Strawberry and Hope valleys to Carson valley. From this point it led to the Humboldt, which stream
was followed nearly to its source. Leaving the Humboldt the route led northeastward into southern Idaho in the vicinity of the Goose Creek mountains, and thence southeasterly around the north side of Great Salt Lake to Salt Lake City.

In the lettings of 1854, the Utah-California mail route was changed to run from Salt Lake City over the Mormon trail to San Diego. Chorpenning was again the successful bidder. The mail was to be carried monthly each way, through in twenty-eight days, for a compensation of $12,500 per year. Chorpenning thought it worthwhile to enter a low bid to ensure getting the contract since he expected that the service would probably be increased to a weekly schedule, the time per trip reduced, and the compensation increased.

The service began July 1, 1854, and was to continue for four years. The mail was carried on horseback or on pack mules. During that first summer, Indian difficulties arose and continued at intervals for months. The emigration fell off and expenses on the route increased. Similar difficulties had been encountered by the contractors east of the Rocky Mountains, who appealed to Congress and received increased remuneration by the act of March 3, 1855. Encouraged by their success with Congress, and inasmuch as his difficulties continued, Chorpenning went to Washington and presented his claims in June, 1856. Congress responded with an act for his relief March 3, 1857. It provided that the compensation be increased to $30,000 per year from July 1, 1853, to the termination of the contract in 1858; that the full contract pay be allowed during the suspension of the contract in the spring of 1853; and that the Postmaster-general make an additional allowance on a pro rata basis for the extra service performed prior to 1853. A total of $109,072.95 was allowed and paid under the provisions of this act.

During the four years of the duration of the contract (until July i, 1858), the mail was carried with fair regularity, and often in less than schedule time. The service was usually performed on horseback, but a wagon was used occasionally. The mail of December, 1857, was taken from Salt Lake City to Los Angeles by wagon in twenty-six days, while on horseback the trip often did not consume more than twenty days.

Wells Fargo and Company, Adams and Company, and other express companies maintained express service on the line during this period (1854-8). There was also much freighting and some emigrant travel over the road. The Mormon “State of Deseret” had included the whole of this route with its terminus upon the Pacific Coast. A colony was planted by these pioneers at San Bernardino in 1851 and considerable trade and intercourse was carried-on over this road.

The route was in general that of the present “Arrowhead Trail” automobile road. From Los Angeles the route led to San Bernardino, through Cajon Pass to the Mohave River, which was followed for fifty miles. From the Mohave River the route lay to the north to Bitter Springs, then turned eastward by Kingston Springs to Las Vegas, Nevada. From this famous resting station a dry stretch of sixty miles was crossed leading to the Muddy Creek. After crossing another “bench” the Virgin River was reached, and this stream was followed to Beaver Dams, Arizona. Leaving the Virgin River the road crossed the “slope” and over a little mountain range to the Santa Clara Creek, which stream was followed to the vicinity of the famous Mountain Meadows. From Mountain Meadows the route led to Cedar City and thence almost due north through the Mormon settlements of Parowan, Beaver, Fillmore, Nephi, Payson, Provo, and Lehi to Salt Lake City.”

Before the termination of the contract on this route the policy of extensive increases in the western mail lines was inaugurated, and partisans of the “Central Route” via Salt Lake City and across northern Nevada were demanding service upon that more direct route to San Francisco. Accordingly, in 1858 this Los Angeles to-Salt Lake City route was discontinued and the original route of 1851 was re-established and put upon an improved basis.

–

The Evolution of Muroc: From Desert Wasteland to Aviation and Racing Hub

Geological and Environmental Background

Pleistocene Era (circa 2.5 million years ago) The origins of Rogers Dry Lake, located in the Antelope Valley within the Mojave Desert, trace back to the Pleistocene Era, around 2.5 million years ago. As a pluvial lake, it boasts an incredibly flat, smooth, and hard surface, which can withstand pressures up to 250 psi. These unique geological characteristics made Rogers Dry Lake a natural choice for aviation and automotive speed trials. Covering approximately 65 square miles, the lakebed forms a rough figure eight and is known for its harsh climate, experiencing extreme temperatures, violent dust storms, and mesmerizing sunsets.

Early Settlement and Development

Pre-1876: Sparse Population and Railroad Expansion Before significant settlement, the area was primarily inhabited by occasional prospectors searching for mineral wealth. The Southern Pacific Railroad established a water stop near the lakebed in 1876. In 1882, the Santa Fe Railroad extended westward from Barstow toward Mojave, establishing another water stop at the edge of what was then called Rodriguez Dry Lake. By the early 1900s, the name “Rodriguez” had been anglicized to “Rogers.”

1910: The Corum Family and the Founding of Muroc In 1910, the Corum family settled at the lakebed, naming the area “Muroc” by reversing their last name after their original choice, “Corum,” was rejected due to its similarity to “Coram, California.” The Corum family established a general store and post office, attracting other homesteaders and helping to develop the area. Their efforts laid the foundation for what would become a significant site in both aviation and automotive history.

Early Racing Events

1920s: The Dawn of Speed Events Muroc Dry Lake became a prominent site for American Automobile Association (AAA) sanctioned speed events during the 1920s. The affordability and modifiability of the Model T made it the preferred vehicle for early hot rodders. Roadsters were favored among racers, but touring cars were also frequently raced. In May 1923, Joe Nikrent set a speed record of 108.24 miles per hour in a stripped-down Buick. The following year, Tommy Milton achieved 151.26 mph in a Miller-powered race car. In 1927, Frank Lockhart reached a speed of 171 miles per hour, further cementing Muroc’s reputation as a premier racing venue.

October 9, 1927: Southern California Champion Sweepstakes One of the most significant early racing events was the Southern California Champion Sweepstakes, held on October 9, 1927. Organized by Earl Mansell from Pasadena, California, the event featured five classes of competition:

Ford Roadsters: Open to any Ford roadster with or without fenders or windshields, requiring a hood and turtle deck.
Ford Coupes: Required fenders, hood, windshield, and doors.
Ford Touring Cars: Fenders and windshields were optional.
Special Flathead Race: Open to any body style with a flathead engine, offering refunded entry fees to winners of the previous events.
Championship Sweepstakes: Open to any roadster, coupe, or touring car, with the option to race without windshield or fenders.

Organized Racing and the SCTA

1931: The First Organized Speed Trials In 1931, one of the first known organized amateur speed trials took place at Muroc, sponsored by Gilmore Oil Company of Los Angeles and organized by George Wight, owner of Bell Auto Parts. Recognizing the need for coordinated rules and regulations, Wight invited hot rodders to an organizational meeting in East Los Angeles. Early rules categorized cars based on engine types, including Model T flatheads, Model T Rajos, Model T Frontenacs and Chevrolets, Model A flatheads, and Model A overhead valve conversions. Supercharged cars were not allowed to compete. The first organized meet was held on March 25, 1931, followed by another on April 19, 1931. Safety measures were implemented, such as a 40 mph speed limit for returning cars and penalties for jumping the start.

Formation of the Muroc Racing Association By the end of 1931, the Muroc Racing Association was formed, complete with officers and a race program. The association collected a one-dollar entry fee to cover expenses, and the Purdy Brothers developed an electrical timer to clock the cars’ speeds, further formalizing the events.

1932-1933: Changes in Classification In 1932, the trials continued under the same rules, but significant changes in car classification were introduced. Cars were now categorized as either stock-bodied or modified. Stock-bodied cars could have certain parts removed, while modified cars were significantly altered. Between the 1932 and 1933 seasons, classifications shifted to speed and body type, with new classes based on potential top speeds. This change aimed to ensure fairness and safety, with measures like painting speedometers with white shoe polish to prevent drivers from knowing their exact speed.

Military Establishment and World War II

September 1933: The Arrival of the Army In 1933, the United States Army arrived at Muroc, recognizing the lakebed’s potential as an airfield. The Muroc Bombing and Gunnery Range was established, and by 1937, the United States Army Air Corps set up Muroc Air Field for training and testing purposes.

World War II and the Establishment of Muroc Army Air Base During World War II, Muroc Army Air Base was activated, serving as a major training site for bomber crews and fighter pilots. The flat, hard surface of Rogers Dry Lake was ideal for aircraft testing, including early jet planes like the Bell XP-59A and the Lockheed XP-80. On October 1, 1942, the Bell XP-59A Airacomet, America’s first jet plane, made its first flight at Muroc. The base played a crucial role in the war effort, training crews and testing new aircraft.

Post-War Developments After the war, Muroc continued to be a central hub for aviation research and development. The Bell X-1, piloted by Capt. Charles E. “Chuck” Yeager, broke the sound barrier on October 14, 1947, marking a significant milestone in aviation history. The base was renamed Edwards Air Force Base in February 1948 in honor of Capt. Glen W. Edwards, who died in a test flight accident. By 1950, Edwards Air Force Base was officially dedicated and recognized as the U.S. Air Force Flight Test Center (AFFTC).

The Hot Rodding Era

Post-War Racing and El Mirage The end of World War II marked a transition from racing activities at Muroc to El Mirage, another dry lakebed south of the air base. While El Mirage was not as ideal as Muroc, it continued to host hot rodding events. The SCTA (Southern California Timing Association) organized several “reunion” races at Muroc in 1995, bringing together a generation of racers who had participated in early SCTA events. However, racing activities at Muroc were halted following the events of September 11, 2001, due to security concerns.

Legacy and Continued Significance

Aviation and Hot Rodding Heritage Muroc’s dual legacy as a pioneering site for both aviation and hot rodding remains significant. Edwards Air Force Base continues to be a premier flight testing center, contributing to numerous advancements in aerospace technology. Meanwhile, the early days of hot rodding at Muroc are fondly remembered by enthusiasts and are considered a foundational period in the history of American motorsports.

Current Status and Future Prospects While racing activities at Muroc have ceased, El Mirage remains an active site for hot rodding events. The SCTA continues to organize races, preserving the spirit and tradition of early speed trials. There is hope that, in the future, Muroc might once again host racing events, allowing the sands to echo with the sounds of high-speed automotive competition.

In conclusion, Muroc’s history is a testament to its unique geographical features and its adaptability, serving as a critical site for both military aviation and automotive racing. The integration of these diverse historical elements highlights Muroc’s significant contribution to American technological and cultural heritage.

Willow Springs Raceway: A Storied Legacy in Motorsports

Willow Springs Raceway, also known as Willow Springs International Motorsports Park, stands as a storied institution in the world of motorsports. Located in Rosamond, California, this iconic racing facility has been a cornerstone of American racing since its inception in 1953. Known affectionately as “The Fastest Road in the West,” Willow Springs boasts a rich history, diverse tracks, and a reputation for challenging and exhilarating racing.

A Storied History

Founded by a group of racing enthusiasts led by Bill Huth, Willow Springs Raceway opened its doors in November 1953 with its inaugural race, quickly establishing itself as a premier racing destination. Over the decades, the track grew in popularity and prestige, attracting top racers and becoming a hub for automotive testing and media production.

Famous Figures and Vehicles

Willow Springs Raceway has a storied legacy and has been home to many iconic drivers and vehicles. I’m impressed by the list of notable names who have raced there, including Mario Andretti, Ken Miles, Carroll Shelby, and even James Dean. Steve McQueen was also a frequent visitor.

As for the cars and motorcycles, the list is just as impressive. The Shelby Cobra, Ford GT40, Porsche 911, and Ferrari 250 GTO are all iconic names in the automotive world, and Willow Springs Raceway has hosted them all. And then there are the motorcycles, like the Yamaha YZR500, Honda RC30, and Ducati 916.

Willow Springs has also hosted famous riders like Kenny Roberts, Wayne Rainey, and Nicky Hayden. The track has been a part of many famous moments in racing, and it continues to offer a challenging and exhilarating experience for drivers and spectators alike.

Diverse and Challenging Tracks

Willow Springs Raceway is a storied institution in the world of motorsports, known for its high-speed straights and challenging corners. The main track, Big Willow, is ideal for those who enjoy an adrenaline rush. But Willow Springs Raceway is home to several tracks, each catering to different types of racing and experience levels.

Streets of Willow is a smaller, technical course, while Horse Thief Mile is favored by drifting enthusiasts and time attack events. The Willow Springs Kart Track is perfect for those who want to test their skills in a competitive environment. Whether you’re looking for speed or technique, Willow Springs Raceway has a track to suit your needs.

Endurance Racing and Top Races

One of the most significant events in the track’s history is the Willow Springs 24-Hour Endurance Race. This grueling event tests both the durability of vehicles and the stamina of drivers, attracting a diverse field of competitors from professional teams to amateur racers. While not held annually, endurance races remain a highlight, showcasing the track’s versatility and challenge.

Other top races include SCCA national races, NASA events, and the Willow Springs Motorcycle Club (WSMC) races. The track has also hosted the Toyota Pro/Celebrity Race and various vintage racing events, adding to its reputation as a premier motorsports venue.

Accidents and Safety

Willow Springs Raceway has experienced its fair share of accidents over the years. Other incidents have occurred during private track days and club racing events. Despite these challenges, the raceway has continually made safety improvements. These include enhanced barriers, runoff areas, and emergency response protocols to ensure a safe environment for all participants.

Conclusion

Willow Springs stands as a testament to the enduring appeal and excitement of motorsports. It has a rich history and diverse tracks, and it continues to attract top racers, automotive enthusiasts, and fans from around the world. With its challenging racing environment and diverse and thrilling experience for drivers and spectators alike, it’s no wonder that Willow Springs remains a beloved and iconic racing facility. It’s a great place to learn how to race, test your skills, and watch professionals.

Stage Stops & Relay Stations

Stagecoach relay stations and accommodations were vital for the stagecoach travel system, especially during the 18th and 19th centuries. These stations were strategically located along stagecoach routes to ensure efficient travel and the well-being of passengers, horses, and drivers.

Relay Stations

Relay stations, also known as “staging posts” or “stage stops,” were positioned every 10 to 20 miles along the route. Their primary purpose was to provide fresh horses for the stagecoach, as they would be exhausted after traveling long distances. At these stations, tired horses were replaced with rested ones, ensuring the stagecoach could maintain a steady pace without long delays.

Key features of relay stations included:

Stables: For housing and caring for horses.
Feed and Water: Ample supplies of food and water for the horses.
Blacksmith Services: For shoeing horses and making necessary repairs to the stagecoach.
Shelter: Basic accommodations for passengers if they need a brief rest.

Accommodations

Beyond just relay stations, more substantial accommodations were often provided at larger intervals or significant points along the route. These accommodations varied widely, ranging from simple inns to more elaborate hotels, depending on the route’s location and prominence.

Key features of stagecoach accommodations included:

Sleeping Quarters: Rooms for passengers to rest overnight, often shared with other travelers.
Dining Facilities: Meals were provided, typically hearty and designed to sustain travelers for the next leg of their journey.
Lounge Areas: Common rooms where passengers could relax, socialize, and recover from the journey.
Washrooms: Basic facilities for washing up, although these were often quite rudimentary by modern standards.
Repair Services: Facilities to fix any damage to the stagecoach or passenger belongings.

The Experience

Traveling by stagecoach was often uncomfortable and tiring. Roads could be rough, and the constant need to change horses meant frequent stops. However, relay stations and accommodations provided necessary breaks and a chance for passengers to stretch their legs, eat, and rest. These stops were crucial for the safety and efficiency of the stagecoach system, making long-distance travel more manageable during this era.

Despite the hardships, stagecoach travel was an essential part of life, enabling communication, commerce, and transportation across vast distances before the advent of the railroad and the automobile.

Overview of Desert Stagecoach Lines Before Railroads

Before railroads revolutionized transportation, stagecoaches were a critical means of public transport across the desert regions. Here are some key stage lines and their operations:

Goldfield Stage (1905): This stage provided transportation services in the Goldfield area.
Applewhite’s Stage: This stage used a three-bench buggy to transport miners from Calico to town for business and lodging.
Arizona Overland Mail (1866-1868): Initially, it was a weekly mail service from Camp Drum to Prescott, Arizona, which later became twice-weekly. It overcame significant challenges, including Indian troubles.
Barnwell to Death Valley Route: A daily stage route from Barnwell to Manse, Nevada, that remained crucial for travelers and miners even after the completion of the Salt Lake Railroad.
Barnwell to Searchlight Stage Line: Operated until 1906 when the Barnwell & Searchlight Railroad commenced.
Black Canyon Stage Station: A stop for the Panamint Transportation Company along the Black Canyon route.
Brooklyn Well: A stage stop on the Dale to Amboy route, providing necessary water and rest.
Butterfield Overland Stage Company (1858-1860): A major mail route running from Missouri to California, passing through the Mojave Desert.
Calico Stage Line (1): Operated between Daggett and Calico from 1885 to 1887 using a six-horse Concord Coach.
Calico Stage Line (2): Provided twice-daily trips between Calico and Daggett with improved coaches and horses.
California Southern Stage Line: Connected Calico with Barstow and San Bernardino.
Cottonwood Stage Station: A notable station that was raided in 1875 by Cleovaro Chavez’s gang.
Crackerjack Auto Transit Company (1907): Introduced auto-stage services between Silver Lake and Crackerjack.
Daggett & Skidoo Stage Line: Operated through Black Canyon.
Dale to Amboy Stage Line (1903-1916): Known as the Buckboard Stage, this line included lunch in its $5 fare.
Death Valley Chug Line (1907): An auto-stage operated by “Alkali Bill” Brong, transporting passengers around Death Valley.
Domingo Stage & Freight (1887): Ran from Providence to Fenner, primarily hauling ore.
Goldstone-Los Angeles Auto Stage: Provided bi-weekly trips between Los Angeles and Goldstone.
Harrison’s Calico Express Line (1882): Connected San Bernardino with Calico, taking a day and a half each way.
Huntington Stage: The first public transport service between San Bernardino and Calico.
Livingstone & Cahill Stage Line: Operated between Barstow, Daggett, and Calico.
Mecham’s Panamint Stage (1874): Charged $30 for a one-way trip from San Bernardino to Panamint.
Nipton & Searchlight Stage Line (1910): Transported passengers and freight between Searchlight and the railroad at Nipton.
Orange Blossom Mining & Milling Company Stage Line (1908): Served the Orange Blossom mines and camp.
Panamint Transportation Company (1873-1874): Ran from San Bernardino to Panamint City, a challenging and critical route for the time.
Perew Auto Stage (1905): An innovative auto-stage line from Manvel to Searchlight.
Pioneer Stage (1890s): Charged $2 for a 5-mile trip from Manvel into Vanderbilt.

These stagecoach lines were essential in connecting remote areas and facilitating commerce, mail delivery, and passenger transport before the widespread advent of railroads. They navigated rough terrain, faced threats from bandits, and dealt with challenging weather conditions to keep the region connected.

Stagecoaches and Stage Routes in the Mojave Desert

The Historical and Ecological Significance of Summit Valley and Its Surroundings

Summit Valley: A Historical Overview

Summit Valley is a region rich in history and natural beauty in Southern California. Nestled between the Mojave Desert and the Southern California Mountains, it lies east of the Cajon Pass. Hesperia borders it to the north and the San Bernardino National Forest to the south. This valley, traversed by the West Fork of the Mojave River, holds significant historical and ecological importance.

Key Historical Figures and Events

1776: Fr. Francisco Garcés

Francisco Garcés, a Spanish Franciscan missionary and explorer, traveled through Summit Valley in 1776 as part of his extensive travels across the American Southwest. Garcés played a crucial role in establishing early routes and missions in the region, and his detailed diaries provide valuable insights into the landscape and indigenous peoples.

1826: Jedediah Smith

Jedediah Smith, a renowned American frontiersman, trapper, and explorer, led an expedition through Summit Valley in 1826. This marked one of the earliest American explorations of the region, significantly contributing to the mapping and understanding of the Western United States.

1840: Chaguanoso Raid

*Raiders would run the horses to death if they had to–the stakes were high. (BLM photo colorized)*

The Chaguanoso raid was the largest stock theft in California’s history. On May 14, 1840, Juan Perez, the administrator of Mission San Gabriel, reported the theft of mares by Chaguanoso raiders. Tiburcio Tapia, a prominent Californian businessman and alcalde of Los Angeles, directed the pursuit of the robbers who crossed the Mojave Desert. Despite the efforts of men like Ygnacio Palomares and José Antonio Carrillo, the raiders largely escaped.

*A possible site of Campo de la Puente (Camp on the bridge)*

Early 1840s: Michael White (Miguel Blanco)

In the early 1840s, Michael White (Miguel Blanco) confronted horse thieves led by Chief Coyote in Crowder Canyon. White’s successful defense of his cattle, culminating in the killing of Chief Coyote, marked a significant moment in the region’s history and highlighted the persistent threat of banditry.

Settlement and Development

1866: Summit Valley Massacre

On March 25, 1866, Edwin Parrish, Nephi Bemis, and Pratt Whiteside, young cowboys employed at Las Flores Ranch, were ambushed and killed by Piute Indians near Las Flores Ranch. This violent episode highlighted the ongoing tensions between settlers and native populations.

Late 1800s: Las Flores Ranch

In the late 1800s, cattle driven from Arizona were pastured on Summit Valley’s green grass and running water and fattened before being sent to market in San Bernardino. Despite the challenges from wildlife and hostile natives, the ranch became central to the regional economy.

1884-1885: Railroad Construction

The construction of the Southern California Railroad in 1884-1885, following the old Spanish Trail route, was a significant development. Summit, located about six miles west of the Bircham Ranch, became a crucial station for shipping supplies. Despite unsuccessful oil explorations, the area continued to develop.

Early 1900s: Agricultural Growth

*Looking northeast from the mouth of Cedar Springs Canyon*

Summit Valley’s fertile lands and plentiful water made it an attractive location for cattle ranching. Early settlers capitalized on these resources, establishing large ranches that became central to the valley’s economy. Over time, the introduction of railroads and improved transportation infrastructure facilitated the growth of agriculture and livestock trade, further cementing the valley’s role as a key agricultural hub.

1924: Modern Infrastructure

*Looking east into Horsethief Canyon on SR 138 – November 2015*

By the early 20th century, the region had developed a network of roads and railroads, with State Route 138 emerging as a critical transportation corridor. This infrastructure supported the valley’s continued growth and integration into the broader Southern California economy while preserving its historical legacy and natural beauty.

Ecological and Recreational Importance

Biodiversity and Conservation

Summit Valley has diverse habitats, from montane forests and riparian zones to grasslands and desert ecosystems. These habitats support a variety of wildlife, including many species of birds, mammals, and plants. Conservation efforts in the valley focus on protecting these natural resources, managing invasive species, and ensuring the region’s ecological health.

Silverwood Lake and Recreational Activities

The creation of Silverwood Lake as part of the California State Water Project has significantly enhanced the recreational opportunities in Summit Valley. The lake offers boating, fishing, hiking, and camping activities, attracting regional visitors. The Pacific Crest Trail, which passes through the valley, provides additional opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts to explore the area’s natural beauty.

Cedar Springs, CA

Cedar Springs was a small community in the San Bernardino Mountains, submerged by the creation of Silverwood Lake in 1971. Before the lake’s construction, Cedar Springs was known for its natural beauty, with lush cedar forests and clear springs that attracted visitors and residents alike. While the community was lost, the lake’s creation transformed the area into a major recreational destination.

Conclusion

Summit Valley’s rich history, from early exploration by figures like Francisco Garcés and Jedediah Smith to significant events like the Chaguanoso raid and Summit Valley massacre, paints a vivid picture of a region that has played a crucial role in Southern California’s story. From the challenges faced by early settlers to its modern-day significance as a recreational and ecological haven, Summit Valley remains a testament to the dynamic interplay between human activity and the natural world.

#2 – Joshua Tree National Park

Park Features

Unique Flora and Fauna: The park is renowned for its namesake Joshua Trees (Yucca brevifolia), which give the landscape an otherworldly feel. It also has various desert plants and animals, including cacti, wildflowers, bighorn sheep, and desert tortoises.
Stunning Landscapes: The park’s diverse landscapes include rugged mountains, stark desert plains, and unique rock formations. These features provide breathtaking views and excellent opportunities for photography.
Recreational Activities: Joshua Tree NP is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Popular activities include hiking, rock climbing, camping, and stargazing. The park’s clear skies and lack of light pollution make it an excellent spot for astronomy.
Rock Climbing: The park is a world-class destination for rock climbers, offering thousands of climbing routes of varying difficulty. The unique granite rock formations attract climbers from all over the globe.
Cultural and Historical Significance: The park has a rich cultural history, with evidence of human habitation dating back over 5,000 years. Visitors can explore historical sites, including remnants of old mines, homesteads, and Native American petroglyphs.
Accessibility: Its proximity to major urban centers like Los Angeles, San Diego, and Las Vegas makes it an accessible destination for both day-trippers and longer visits.
Varied Ecosystems: Joshua Tree NP spans the convergence of two distinct desert ecosystems—the Mojave and the Colorado Deserts. This unique positioning offers a variety of environments within the park, each with its own distinct flora and fauna.

These factors, combined with the park’s natural beauty and recreational opportunities, make Joshua Tree National Park a popular destination for nature lovers, adventurers, and tourists alike.

#5 – Mojave National Preserve: A Vast Desert Wilderness

/mojave-preserve/

The Mojave National Preserve, encompassing over 1.6 million acres, offers diverse landscapes, wildlife, and recreational activities. Located in southeastern California, the preserve is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers. Here’s an expanded look at what makes the Mojave National Preserve a popular destination:

Key Features and Attractions

Kelso Dunes:
- Dune Field: Covering over 45 square miles, the Kelso Dunes are some of the tallest dunes in North America, with the highest peak rising about 650 feet.
- Hiking and Exploration: Visitors can hike to the top of the dunes for panoramic views and experience the phenomenon of “singing sands,” a booming sound produced by the movement of the sand.
- Sunset Views: The dunes are stunning at sunset when the shifting light creates dramatic shadows and colors.
Hole-in-the-Wall:
- Geological Features: This area is named for its unique rock formations created by volcanic activity and erosion. The walls are filled with holes and cavities, giving the area its distinctive appearance.
- Rings Loop Trail: A popular 1.5-mile loop trail that features metal rings bolted into the rock to help hikers navigate steep sections of the trail. The trail offers a close-up view of the fascinating rock formations.
- Visitor Center: The Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center provides exhibits on the area’s geology, wildlife, and cultural history.
Cinder Cone Lava Beds:
- Volcanic Landscape: This area features ancient volcanic cones, lava flows, and craters, offering a rugged and dramatic landscape.
- Hiking Trails: Trails wind through the lava beds, providing opportunities to explore the unique terrain and view the surrounding desert.
Mitchell Caverns:
- Limestone Caves: Located in the Providence Mountains State Recreation Area, these caverns are filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and other fascinating formations.
- Guided Tours: The only way to explore the caverns is through guided tours offered by California State Parks, which provide insights into the caves’ geological history and natural features.
Mojave Road:
- Historic Route: The Mojave Road is a historic 140-mile off-road trail that follows a route used by Native Americans, early explorers, and settlers. It provides a challenging and adventurous way to experience the preserve.
- Landmarks: Along the route, travelers can see historic sites, old military forts, and natural landmarks. The route requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle and careful planning.

Wildlife and Plant Life

Desert Flora: The preserve has various desert plants, including Joshua trees, creosote bushes, cacti, and wildflowers. Springtime can bring vibrant blooms, adding color to the landscape.
Wildlife: The preserve’s diverse habitats support a wide range of wildlife, including bighorn sheep, coyotes, desert tortoises, and numerous bird species. The varying elevations and environments within the preserve create unique ecosystems.

Recreational Activities

Hiking:
- Diverse Trails: The preserve offers a range of hiking trails, from short nature walks to strenuous backcountry routes. Trails provide opportunities to explore the varied landscapes and observe the native flora and fauna.
- Backpacking: For those seeking a more immersive experience, the preserve offers backcountry camping and backpacking opportunities. Permits are required for overnight stays.
Camping:
- Developed Campgrounds: The preserve has several developed campgrounds, including Hole-in-the-Wall and Mid Hills, which offer amenities such as picnic tables, fire rings, and restrooms.
- Dispersed Camping: For a more primitive experience, visitors can camp in designated areas throughout the preserve. Dispersed camping allows for solitude and a closer connection with nature.
Stargazing:
- Dark Skies: The remote location of the preserve provides excellent conditions for stargazing. The lack of light pollution allows for clear views of the night sky, making it a perfect spot for observing stars, planets, and meteor showers.
Bird Watching:
- Diverse Bird Species: The varied habitats within the preserve attract a wide range of bird species, making it a popular destination for bird watchers. Seasonal migrations and diverse environments provide opportunities to see both resident and migratory birds.
Off-Roading:
- Designated Routes: The preserve has numerous designated off-road vehicle routes, offering adventurous ways to explore the rugged terrain. It’s important to stay on designated routes to protect the environment and adhere to regulations.

Historical and Cultural Sites

Kelso Depot: A restored 1924 Union Pacific train depot now serving as the preserve’s visitor center. The depot features exhibits on the history of the railroad, mining, and desert communities.
Rock Springs Land and Cattle Company: Historical ranch buildings and corrals that provide a glimpse into the ranching history of the area.

Conservation and Preservation

Protected Area: The Mojave National Preserve is managed by the National Park Service, protecting its unique landscapes, wildlife, and cultural resources.
Leave No Trace: Visitors are encouraged to practice Leave No Trace principles, minimizing their impact on the environment and helping to preserve the preserve’s natural beauty and integrity.

Visitor Information

Accessibility: The preserve is accessible via Interstate 15 and Interstate 40, with several entry points and visitor centers providing information and resources.
Seasonal Considerations: The best times to visit are spring and fall when temperatures are moderate. Summer temperatures can be extreme, and winter can bring cold nights and occasional snow at higher elevations.

The Mojave National Preserve offers a diverse and captivating landscape with countless opportunities for exploration and adventure. Whether hiking through rugged canyons, climbing towering dunes, or simply soaking in the vast desert vistas, the preserve provides a memorable and enriching experience for all who visit.

#6 – Trona Pinnacles: A Unique Geological Wonderland

/trona-pinnacles/

The Trona Pinnacles, located in the California Desert National Conservation Area near the town of Trona, offer a striking landscape of unusual tufa formations rising dramatically from the desert floor. Here’s an expanded look at what makes the Trona Pinnacles a popular destination:

Geological Significance

Formation: The Trona Pinnacles are composed of tufa, a type of limestone that forms in alkaline lake waters. These formations were created 10,000 and 100,000 years ago when the area was submerged under the prehistoric Searles Lake.
Structure: The site features over 500 pinnacles, ranging from small spires to large towers that reach up to 140 feet. These formations vary in shape and size, creating a surreal and otherworldly landscape.

Attractions and Activities

Exploring the Pinnacles:
- Self-Guided Tours: Visitors can explore the pinnacles at their own pace, walking among the formations and marveling at their unique shapes and textures. The area is open for hiking and offers numerous trails and pathways.
- Interpretive Signs: Informational signs throughout the site provide insights into the geological history of the pinnacles, explaining how they were formed and their significance.
Photography:
- Landscape Photography: The Trona Pinnacles are a favorite subject for photographers due to their striking appearance and the dramatic contrasts between the tufa towers and the surrounding desert. The light at sunrise and sunset casts a magical glow on the formations, enhancing their visual appeal.
- Astrophotography: The remote location and dark skies make the Trona Pinnacles an excellent spot for stargazing and astrophotography. The formations provide unique foregrounds for night sky photography, including stunning views of the Milky Way.
Off-Roading and Vehicle Access:
- Off-Road Trails: The area around the Trona Pinnacles is accessible by dirt roads suitable for high-clearance and four-wheel-drive vehicles. Off-road enthusiasts can enjoy exploring the rugged terrain and discovering hidden viewpoints.
- Scenic Drives: For those who prefer a more leisurely visit, scenic drives through the area offer beautiful views of the pinnacles and the surrounding desert landscape.
Camping:
- Primitive Camping: The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) allows primitive camping near the Trona Pinnacles. Campers can set up their tents or park their RVs in designated areas, providing a unique opportunity to experience the pinnacles up close, especially during sunrise and sunset.
- Stargazing: Camping overnight offers a chance to enjoy the clear desert skies, which are perfect for stargazing and experiencing the tranquility of the desert.
Filming and Events:
- Film Location: The Trona Pinnacles have been used as a backdrop for numerous movies, TV shows, and commercials due to their otherworldly appearance. Productions like “Star Trek V: The Final Frontier” and “Planet of the Apes” have featured scenes shot at the pinnacles.
- Special Events: Occasionally, the area hosts special events such as photography workshops, stargazing parties, and off-road vehicle rallies, providing unique opportunities for visitors to engage with the site.

Visitor Information

Location and Access: The Trona Pinnacles are about 20 miles east of Ridgecrest, California. The access road to the pinnacles is a graded dirt road off Highway 178, which can be rough in places but is generally passable for most vehicles.
Facilities: The Trona Pinnacles do not have developed facilities. Visitors should come prepared with their water, food, and supplies. Portable toilets are sometimes available, but it’s best to be self-sufficient.

Best Times to Visit

Spring and Fall: These seasons offer mild temperatures, making it the best time for outdoor activities such as hiking and camping. Springtime may also bring wildflower blooms, adding color to the landscape.
Winter: Winter can be a good time to visit if you prefer cooler weather, but be prepared for cold nights. The clear winter skies are excellent for stargazing.

Conservation and Preservation

Protected Area: The Trona Pinnacles are managed by the Bureau of Land Management as part of the California Desert National Conservation Area. Efforts are made to preserve the site’s unique geological features and natural beauty.
Responsible Tourism: Visitors are encouraged to practice Leave No Trace principles, respecting the delicate desert environment and minimizing their impact on the land and formations.

Nearby Attractions

Searles Valley Minerals: The nearby town of Trona is known for its mineral processing facilities. The Searles Valley Minerals plant conducts an annual Gem-O-Rama event, where visitors can collect various minerals and crystals from the Searles Lake deposits.
Death Valley National Park: Located to the east, Death Valley National Park offers additional opportunities for exploring diverse desert landscapes, unique geological features, and historic sites.

Educational and Interpretive Programs

Guided Tours and Talks: Occasionally, the BLM or local organizations may offer guided tours and interpretive talks about the geology and natural history of the Trona Pinnacles, providing deeper insights into the site’s formation and significance.

The Trona Pinnacles offer a unique and memorable experience for visitors interested in geology, photography, outdoor adventure, and the natural beauty of the Mojave Desert. Whether exploring the pinnacles on foot, capturing their striking forms with a camera, or simply soaking in the serene desert atmosphere, the Trona Pinnacles provide an extraordinary destination for all who visit.

/trona-ca/

#7 – Red Rock Canyon State Park: A Jewel of the Mojave Desert

/red-rock-canyon/

Red Rock Canyon State Park, located in the southern Mojave Desert, is renowned for its stunning rock formations, vibrant colors, and rich history. Here’s an in-depth look at what makes Red Rock Canyon State Park a popular destination:

Geological and Natural Features

Spectacular Rock Formations: The park is famous for its dramatic cliffs, buttes, and vividly colored rock layers that span millions of years of geological history. These formations primarily comprise sandstone, volcanic rock, and sedimentary deposits.
Unique Colors: The park’s namesake red cliffs and outcroppings are complemented by layers of white, pink, and brown, creating a visually striking landscape that changes with the angle of the sunlight.

Attractions and Activities

Hiking Trails:
- Hagen Canyon Nature Trail: A popular 1-mile loop trail that offers close-up views of the park’s iconic rock formations and opportunities to spot wildlife. It is an easy hike suitable for all ages.
- Red Cliffs Trail: A moderate trail that leads hikers through some of the park’s most scenic areas, including red cliffs and narrow canyons. This trail provides excellent photo opportunities.
- Nightmare Gulch Loop: A longer, more challenging trail offering a rugged adventure through narrow canyons and dramatic rock formations. It is typically open from July through January due to nesting raptors in the area.
Wildlife Viewing:
- Bird Watching: The park’s diverse habitats attract numerous bird species, making it a great spot for enthusiasts.
Camping:
- Ricardo Campground: The park’s main campground is located amidst scenic cliffs and rock formations. It offers 50 campsites with picnic tables, fire rings, and restrooms.
- Primitive Camping: For a more rustic experience, visitors can opt for primitive camping in designated areas, allowing them to connect more closely with nature.
Photography:
- Landscape Photography: The park’s vibrant rock formations and desert vistas provide endless opportunities for landscape photography. Sunrise and sunset are particularly magical times for capturing the beauty of the park.
- Night Sky Photography: The park’s remote location and minimal light pollution make it an excellent spot for stargazing and astrophotography. The clear desert skies offer stunning views of the Milky Way and other celestial phenomena.
Off-Roading and Driving:
- Scenic Drives: Visitors can enjoy scenic drives through the park, with several dirt roads and trails accessible to high-clearance vehicles. These drives offer a chance to explore more remote areas and enjoy panoramic views.
- Off-Road Vehicle Areas: Designated areas within the park allow for off-road vehicle use, providing an adventurous way to explore the rugged terrain.
Cultural and Historical Sites:
- Petroglyphs and Historical Artifacts: The park is rich in cultural history, with petroglyphs and artifacts from Native American tribes who once inhabited the area. Interpretive signs provide insights into the historical significance of these sites.
- Film and Television Location: Red Rock Canyon has served as a filming location for numerous movies, television shows, and commercials, adding to its cultural appeal.

Visitor Information

Visitor Center: The park’s visitor center offers educational exhibits on the geology, wildlife, and cultural history of the area. It also provides information on hiking trails, camping, and other recreational activities.
Accessibility: The park is easily accessible from major highways, with well-maintained roads leading to the main attractions and facilities.

Best Times to Visit

Spring and Fall: These seasons offer the most comfortable weather for outdoor activities, with mild temperatures and blooming wildflowers in spring.
Winter: The park can be visited year-round, but winter provides cooler temperatures, making it an ideal time for hiking and exploring without the intense heat of summer.

Conservation and Preservation

Protected Area: As a state park, Red Rock Canyon is protected to preserve its natural beauty, wildlife habitats, and cultural resources for future generations.
Leave No Trace Principles: Visitors are encouraged to practice Leave No Trace principles to minimize their impact on the environment and help maintain the park’s pristine condition.

Nearby Attractions

Jawbone Canyon: Located to the north of the park, Jawbone Canyon offers additional opportunities for off-roading, hiking, and exploring unique desert landscapes.
California City: A nearby city that provides additional amenities such as lodging, dining, and shopping for park visitors.

Red Rock Canyon State Park offers a blend of natural beauty, outdoor adventure, and rich history, making it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the Mojave Desert. Whether you’re hiking, camping, photographing, or simply enjoying the stunning scenery, the park provides an unforgettable experience.