Desert history

The Archive and the Conversation

A Living Record

The Mojave Desert is the central thread, but the archive is more than just a storehouse of facts about the land. It’s a layered record, part historical survey, part natural history guide, and part personal journal. The archive contains thousands of entries, ranging from carefully produced histories of ghost towns to quick, almost casual notes about desert wildflowers. It also includes the memory of conversations, some technical, some reflective, all contributing to a living body of knowledge.

The current archive carries these notes forward. They do not simply add new entries; they revisit and renew older ones. When you ask about Scotty’s Castle, it’s not only a summary of a landmark in Death Valley but also a chance to look again at Walter Scott’s fabricated gold mine, his staged shootout at Wingate Pass, and the way his friendship with Albert Johnson turned into one of the strangest desert partnerships. That reflects the way your archive works: history is never sealed off, but constantly connected to other stories. Scotty’s fake mine ties to mining history, con men, railroad investors, and the enduring myths of the desert.

Other chats anchor themselves in place. Marl Springs, for example, appears not just as a dot along the Mojave Road but as a critical water source, garrisoned by soldiers in 1867 and attacked in the same year. The description in your archive emphasizes its clay-like soil and its dependable, if limited, water supply. The chat adds motion to that entry by pulling the soldiers into view, by describing how isolated Marl Springs was from Soda Springs to the west, and by noting how wildlife still depend on its water. Here, the archive preserves detail, while the conversation reanimates it.

Afton Canyon is another recurring subject. The archive refers to it as the Grand Canyon of the Mojave, formed approximately 15,000 years ago when Lake Manix drained catastrophically. The chats bring it alive with more than geology. They highlight the Mojave River flowing above ground, the slot canyons and caves, the risks of flash floods, and the chance to hike and watch wildlife. The personal tone slips in here: Afton is not just an entry on a map; it is a place walked, seen, and photographed. This blend of technical and personal is one of the hallmarks of your work.

Rainbow Basin provides another good example. In the archive, it is a geologic site featuring badlands and folded rock, as well as paleontological finds and fragile soils. In conversation, it becomes a vivid picture of color bands, rattlesnakes, and the eerie feel of hiking through formations shaped by time and water. The description is simplified for younger readers when needed, but the detail remains. It is both a science lesson and a story about walking through the basin yourself.

The archive also gives weight to local communities and their histories. Cajon Pass, for instance, is not simply a route. It is a crossroads layered with stories: Rancho Muscupiabe, Mormon pioneers, the Santa Fe and Southern Pacific railroads, the old wagon roads, the geology of Lost Lake and Blue Cut. Chats about Cajon Pass often focus on its function as a gateway, a place where history, geology, and transportation come together. They show how the archive not only stores information but also draws connections, creating a network of meaning.

The same goes for Old Woman Springs. The archive notes its name, given by surveyors who saw Indian women there. It records Albert Swarthout’s ranching operation, the cattle drives through Rattlesnake Canyon, and the later disputes with J. Dale Gentry. In chat, the place becomes more than history. It becomes a story of how ranching shaped the Mojave, how land ownership shifted, and how the desert landscape still carries those traces.

Other places appear again and again, sometimes as historical notes, sometimes as subjects for simplified explanations. Shea’s Castle in the Antelope Valley, built by Richard Shea in hopes of curing his wife’s illness, ruined by the stock market crash, later a film set. Hotel Beale in Kingman is tied to Andy Devine, the actor whose name became linked to Route 66. Oasis of Mara in Twentynine Palms is a site of Native planting, early settlement, and eventual park development. Each of these places carries weight in the archive, but they come alive in conversation, as the details are retold, refined, and made accessible.

Ecology is just as present as history. Pinyon pines and junipers, Fremont cottonwoods, brittlebush, desert sunflowers, bees sleeping in flowers, and ‘horny toads’ explained to children — all of these details show how the archive ranges across subjects. A glossary entry on igneous rocks can sit beside a playful description of bees tucked into golden blossoms for the night. A technical note on pinyon-juniper woodland succession can be followed by a casual story about antelope ground squirrels darting through camp. These shifts in tone are part of the richness of the record.

The archive also holds larger arcs. The history of Owens Valley runs through it: the water conflicts with Los Angeles, the aqueduct, the treaties with Native peoples, the battles fought during the Owens Valley Indian War. Panamint City and Greenwater appear as examples of boom and bust, with detailed accounts of stagecoach robbers, Nevada senators, mining camps, and the short-lived hopes of investors. The Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad, Remi Nadeau’s freight road, and the Atlantic and Pacific’s push across the Mojave all weave together into the bigger story of transportation. These arcs show how your archive is not just about single places but about the way places link into broader regional histories.

The present chats extend these arcs. A question about Owenyo might focus on its railroad history, but in doing so, it links back into Owens Valley and forward into the decline of rail in the desert. A question about Llano del Rio touches both the socialist dreams of Job Harriman and the modern ruin that still draws visitors. Each chat is both a piece in itself and a way of extending the larger web.

Throughout, there is an awareness of presentation. The archive is not simply a private notebook. It is shaped to be shared: titles, descriptions, metadata, glossaries, indexes. Chats often focus on how best to present this material to readers, whether as timelines, simplified summaries, or relational indexes. The act of shaping the material for public use is part of the archive itself.

The combination of archive and chat also reflects a deeper concern: preservation. The desert is full of forgotten places, and people who once told their stories are no longer around. By recording these histories, revisiting them, and reshaping them for new audiences, the archive resists that loss. The chats show the urgency of this work, as you reflect on volunteers thinning out, museums struggling, and the need to keep the desert’s stories alive.

The archive is a landscape in itself. Its mesas are the long, detailed histories. Its washes are the short, playful notes. Its valleys are the connections between subjects. The chats are the weather moving across that landscape, stirring it, reshaping it, sometimes eroding, sometimes depositing. Over time, the whole thing grows richer, more interconnected, more alive.

This is why the archive and chats cannot be separated. The archive preserves. The chats enliven. Together they form a record of both the desert and of the act of remembering. The Mojave is the subject, but the deeper theme is persistence: the persistence of asking, recording, and shaping knowledge into something that lasts.

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Digital-Desert & Mojave Desert .Net

The digital-desert.com and mojavedesert.net sites share the same subject matter and similar structure, dealing with the Mojave Desert and surrounding regions. Both of them provide learning materials, exploration tools, and information on history.

Here are the main parts that make up both sites:

1. Natural History Geology: Rock formations, fissures in the earth (such as the San Andreas Fault), volcanic activity, and desert patterns. Lake systems (e.g., former Lake Manix and dry lakes such as Soda Lake).

Ecology: Plants and animals that live in desert environments include Joshua trees, creosote bushes, desert tortoises, and bighorn sheep. Habitats include sand dunes, salt flats, canyons, and oases.
Climate: Desert weather patterns include very hot temperatures, seasonal rain, and wind events.

2. Human History Native American Culture: Tribes such as the Mojave, Chemehuevi, Serrano and Paiute. Rock art, traditions, and trade routes such as the Old Mojave Trail. Explorers and Pioneers: Tales of explorers like Jedediah Smith, Kit Carson, and Father Garces. Principal routes: Mojave Road, Spanish Trail, and Butterfield Overland Mail. Mining History: Gold, silver, and borax mining expand rapidly. Specific mining towns and operations are Calico, Rhyolite, and Boron. Historic Places and Ghost Towns: Places like Kelso Depot, Ballarat, and Pioneer Town. Old abandoned buildings, stage stops, and rail history.

3. Geography and Exploration Areas and Landmarks: Joshua Tree National Park Death Valley Mojave National Preserve and Rainbow Basin. Special shapes such as the Devil’s Punchbowl, Afton Canyon, and sand hills. Streets and Roads: Route 66, Old Mojave Road, and gorgeous roads. Hiking and driving routes with maps and information. Interactive Maps: Topographic and historical maps depicting routes of exploration and other localities.

4. Cultural Characteristics Towns and Communities: Tales of desert towns such as Barstow, Victorville, Littlerock, and Needles. Key Players: The area called Death Valley housed early settlers and miners, even famous dudes like Roy Rogers. Art and Folklore: Desert-themed art installations, legends (e.g., ghost stories, lost mines) and folklore.

5. Learning and Information Photos and Pictures: Large photo galleries of desert landscapes, animals and abandoned places. Field Guides: Resources for identifying plants and animals. History Timelines: A summary of geological, prehistoric, and modern historical events. Resource Links: References to books, museums and archives for further research.

6. Fun Guides Camping and Hiking: Lists of campgrounds, remote places, and summaries of hiking trails.
Driving Tours: Ideas for a nice road trip with important places to see.
Safety and Preparation: Tips for desert exploration, including hydration, navigation, and safety around wildlife.

While digital-desert.com focuses on exploration and natural beauty through detailed guides and maps, mojavedesert.net often has a more structured historical narrative and cultural focus. Both sites are resources for desert enthusiasts, historians, and educators.

Ghost Towns & Gold Mines

Ghost Towns, Sites, and Gold and Silver Mines in the Mojave Desert

The Mojave Desert is known for its rich history of mining and the presence of ghost towns and abandoned mines. Here are some notable ghost towns, sites, and gold and silver mines in the Mojave Desert:

Calico Ghost Town: Located near Barstow, California, Calico is one of the most famous ghost towns in the Mojave Desert. It was a thriving silver mining town in the late 1800s but became abandoned when the silver market declined. Today, it’s a well-preserved tourist attraction.
Rhyolite, Nevada: Rhyolite was once a booming gold mining town in the early 1900s. It had over 5,000 people but was quickly abandoned when the mines played out. You can visit the remains of the town and see the famous “Bottle House” made of glass bottles.
Goldfield, Nevada: Goldfield was another prosperous gold mining town in Nevada. It had a peak population of around 20,000 people in the early 1900s. The Goldfield Hotel and several historic buildings still stand today.
Panamint City, California: This remote ghost town in Death Valley National Park was a silver mining town in the late 1800s. It’s accessible via a challenging hike and offers stunning views of the surrounding desert.
Cerro Gordo, California: Cerro Gordo is an old silver mining town still privately owned. It’s located in the Inyo Mountains and has a well-preserved ghost town, including a general store, bunkhouse, and other structures.
Mines in the Mojave Desert: The Mojave Desert is home to numerous gold and silver mines, many of which are abandoned. These mines contributed to the region’s mining history. Some notable mines include the Tonopah-Belmont Mine, the Desert Queen Mine, and the Goldstone Mine.

Remember that exploring abandoned mines can be dangerous due to unstable structures and the presence of toxic gases. It’s essential to exercise caution and, if needed, seek permission or guidance from local authorities or landowners when visiting these sites. Additionally, some ghost towns and mines may be on private property, so be respectful of any access restrictions.

Ghost Towns & Sites in the Mojave Desert

/ghost-towns/

The Mojave Desert in the southwestern United States is home to several ghost towns and abandoned sites that reflect the region’s history of mining, ranching, and other activities.

Here are some notable examples:

Calico Ghost Town:
- Located near Barstow, California, Calico is one of the most famous ghost towns in the Mojave Desert. It was a silver mining town in the 1880s and 1890s. Today, Calico is a county park and tourist attraction with preserved buildings and mining equipment.
Rhyolite:
- Near Death Valley in Nevada, Rhyolite was a bustling gold mining town in the early 20th century. It had a population of several thousand people at its peak. The town had schools, banks, and even an opera house. However, it declined rapidly, and now visitors can explore the ruins of its former glory.
Ballarat:
- In California near the Panamint Mountains, Ballarat was a supply town for the nearby mines in the early 20th century. It is known for its association with the infamous outlaw Charles Manson, who briefly stayed in the area.
Bodie:
- Although technically not in the Mojave Desert (in the Eastern Sierra region), Bodie is worth mentioning. This well-preserved ghost town was a gold mining boomtown in the late 19th century. It’s now a state park; visitors can explore the abandoned buildings and artifacts.
Panamint City:
- Nestled in the Panamint Range of California, Panamint City was a silver mining town that thrived in the late 19th century. The town’s remote location contributed to its decline and was abandoned by the early 20th century. The site is accessible by hiking, and some structures remain.
Cima:
- Cima is a small ghost town in the Mojave National Preserve in California. It was a mining and railroad town in the early 20th century. While most of the buildings are gone, the area still has some remnants of its past.
Ivanpah:
- Ivanpah, located in California, was a mining town that saw activity in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today, only a few structures remain, including stamp mill ruins.

Building in Cima ghost town in Mojave Preserve — Cima Ghost Town

Exploring these ghost towns and abandoned sites provides a fascinating glimpse into the history of the Mojave Desert and the people who once inhabited these remote areas. Keep in mind that some of these sites may be on private land or protected areas, so it’s essential to respect any restrictions and regulations in place.

Dublin Gulch

Dublin Gulch in Shoshone, California, is a rich historical site filled with the remains of unique cave dwellings. In the early 1900s, miners and other early settlers dug the caves into soft volcanic ash cliffs. The makeshift shelters protected them against harsh desert weather conditions and extreme temperatures.

These caves were the dwelling place for miners in nearby mines during the early 20th century. Over a certain period, it did take on a kind of community presence. Some of the dwellings even had windows, doors, and chimneys added to them, making them rather homely. Today, Dublin Gulch is a quirky historic site where, among other things, one can see the cave homes and feel what life in the desert must have been like over a century ago.

Dublin Gulch is situated near the small town of Shoshone, one of the important points that both travelers and miners had to pass through in the early 1900s. It lies close to Death Valley and several mining areas. A small piece of history, it offers a glimpse into the rugged, resourceful lives that were lived early on.

Dublin Gulch, Shoshone, Ca. – 2015

Dublin Gulch, Shoshone, Ca. – 2003

The Stoddard Boys

Of all the brother acts operating in and around San Bernardino County during the Mormon period, Few accomplished more for the ultimate benefit of the area than the Stoddard boys, Arvin and Sheldon.

Neither cut an imposing figure. Arvin, the quiet one, was only 5’5″ tall and weighed 135 pounds soaking wet, while Sheldon wasn’t much larger. But what they lacked in height, they more than made up in spirit.

Arvin, however, had an imposing ally in his wife Caroline. She was 6 feet tall and weighed well over 200 pounds — a formidable Amazon and an extremely vocal one too. One is tempted to ask if she carried him across the threshold on their wedding night.

She became Arvin’s mouthpiece and did not hesitate to make her opinions known, particularly when the chips were down. As their grandson, R. Jackson Stoddard wrote in the March 1970 issue of the LA Westerners Branding Iron, “For although she followed the will of her husband, in many cases the will of her husband was truly only a reflection of her own wants and desires.”

Today, a stretch of the Mojave Desert between Victorville and Daggett is blanketed with sites bearing the Stoddard’s names. They include the Stoddard Mountains, Stoddard Hills, Stoddard gulch, Stoddard Valley, Stoddard Well and Stoddard Wells Road — all directly attributable to Arvin’s work in the area during the 1850s and 60s.

Flag of the Mormon Battailion (note spelling)

There were four Stoddard Brothers at the beginning; Rufus, Albert, Arvin and Sheldon, who were all born in Canada. When their father died in 1838, mother Jane gathered them all up and crossed the United States border, first to Ohio in then to Warsaw, Illinois, where she became hooked on the Mormon religion. When the church made it’s great trek to Salt Lake City in 1847, she and her boys were in the initial contingent.

Rufus was the first of the boys to reach California, arriving in San Diego as a member of the Mormon Battalion. After his group was disbanded in Los Angeles, he remained in the area for almost a year before he rejoining his family at Salt Lake City in 1849.

Sheldon was the next to go. Leaving Salt Lake in 1848, along with 30 other men found for the placer diggings near hang town, they traveled as far as Mountain Meadows with a larger company who hired Capt. Jefferson Hunt to guide them to Los Angeles over the Old Spanish Trail.

At the Meadows they left Hunt’s party and turned west to take what they thought was a shortcut to the gold fields and for the next 17 days blindly followed a false trail without a guide, compass or map to go by.

On the 18th day, hopelessly lost in facing death without water their lives were spared when a sudden rain squall drenched the area. As Sheldon later wrote, “We caught the water by spreading out our rubber blankets on the ground and drank it with a spoon.”

They then turned east on the Muddy River, followed at South until they fortunately encountered Capt. Hunt’s company again and accompanied it up the Mojave River, through Cajon Pass and down to the Chino Ranch.

Tragically enough, on the same trip another group of would-be minors left Hunt’s command at Provo, Utah, insisting they also knew a shorter route to the gold fields, only to blunder into Death Valley, where five died before the survivors made it to Los Angeles.

From Chino the party went on to Mariposa, where they broke up to mine, while Stoddard ran a trading post in nearby Carson Valley for a few months before returning to Salt Lake with a herd of horses and mules.

in March 1851 Sheldon married Jane Hunt, daughter of Capt. Hunt, and the following month they accompanied the first group of Mormon colonizers to the San Bernardino Valley, making temporary camp at Sycamore Grove.

After the Mormons purchased the San Bernardino Rancho that September, and moved down into the valley, Sheldon built the first log cabin in the settlement on First Street,, west of I Street. His cabin was later moved to and made part of the Westside of this stockade constructed on the present courthouse site as protection against hostile Indians.

For the next 14 years Sheldon Stoddard was engaged in freighting and carrying mail between San Bernardino and Salt Lake City, crossing the Mojave 24 times in all. In 1865 he made one trip to Nevada in Montana with a mule team which covered over 1300 miles, and took six months to complete.

Arvin Stoddard and his wife also came to San Bernardino with the first Mormon train and lived in the stockade for three years before receiving an urgent message from Mormon leader Brigham Young, authorizing him to investigate a gold strike in the Calico Hills to see if he could ” obtain as much gold as possible to help finance the founding and furtherance of the faith,” keeping only enough to live on during the venture.

Arvin and Caroline, ardent church devotees, packed their wagon and with their poor young children in tow, headed for the hills without hesitation.

But before looking for gold, Arvin searched for water to raise crops to feed his family and stock and to flush through sluice boxes used to separate flakes of gold from the desert sand.

One of his more successful wells, known as Stoddard Well, is still flowing today and besides furnishing the family with ample water, also provided an impetus for others to break out a new road on almost a straight line from Lane’s Crossing, near today’s Oro Grande, to Fish Ponds Station between present-day Barstow and Daggett, thereby saving many miles compared with the old route, which followed the westward band of the Mojave River.

Although it took him almost 8 years of prospecting, Arvin finally struck a rich claim and extracted a sum that Caroline estimated at $60,000 before calling it quits and lighting out for Salt Lake City to hand to Brigham Young.

But before they reach the Mormon Temple, they were held up by Indians and robbed of all their hard-earned loot, except for a few thousand dollars hidden in Caroline’s underwear.

As her grandson related, “The Indians were neither red nor brown. they were more white than any Indian she (Caroline) had ever seen.” Caroline deduced they were renegade Mormons, acting on behalf of the church, and although her suspicions were never resolved, her once benevolent attitude toward the Mormon hierarchy changed overnight and led to her eventual break with the church.

In 1869 the Arvin Stoddards move to Milford, Utah, where they build a hotel called, naturally, “The Stoddard House,” where they lived until Caroline died in 1904.

Sheldon Stoddard remained in San Bernardino for the rest of his life, Rev. and honored by all who knew him for his contributions to the county and state.

After serving as president of the pioneer society, he spent his final years surrounded by old friends like John Brown and Billy Holcomb. They camped and fished together in their mountain retreats and dedicated monuments to the pioneers in Cajon Pass. he was active up to the day of his death in 1919 at the age of 89.

From:

Heritage Tales 1988
by Fred Holladay
published by the City of San Bernardino Historical and Pioneer Society