The Baker Grade, Interstate 15

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The Baker Grade is a renowned and challenging stretch of the Interstate 15 (I-15) freeway in the Mojave Desert near Baker, California. This freeway segment is characterized by its steep incline and decline over a long distance, presenting a significant test for vehicles, especially during the extreme temperatures in this desert region. The I-15 is a critical highway connecting Southern California, Los Angeles, and San Diego, as well as Las Vegas, Nevada. Further, it extends towards Salt Lake City, Utah, making the Baker Grade a crucial passage for travelers and freight transport.

Baker, the small town near this stretch of the I-15, is often cited as the “Gateway to Death Valley,” serving as a critical rest and supply stop for those en route to Death Valley National Park and other destinations in the Mojave Desert. The town is famous for the World’s Tallest Thermometer, a 134-foot tall structure designed to commemorate the highest temperature recorded in Death Valley (134°F in 1913) and symbolize the region’s extreme heat.

The Baker Grade’s significance goes beyond its physical challenge; it is a testament to the engineering and planning required to maintain such a vital artery through one of the most inhospitable terrains in the United States. Travelers navigating this section are advised to ensure their vehicle’s cooling system is in optimal condition, to carry plenty of water, and to be prepared for the possibility of extreme weather conditions, which can range from scorching heat to sudden cold in the winter months.

State Highway 127 to Death Valley

Moreover, the Mojave Desert’s stark, austere beauty offers a unique backdrop for this portion of the I-15. It makes the journey through the Baker Grade memorable for its scenic vistas and physical demands. Despite the challenges it presents, the Baker Grade is an essential component of the southwestern U.S. transportation network, facilitating commerce and travel between California and Nevada.

Covered Wagon (prairie schooner)

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Covered wagons significantly impacted the United States’ westward expansion during the 18th and 19th centuries. These wagons, often called “prairie schooners,” were designed to transport goods and settlers across the North American continent.

Family & covered wagon (prairie schooner)

Key features and uses of covered wagons included:

  1. Design: Covered wagons typically had a wooden frame with a canvas cover. This cover protected the contents from weather elements like rain and sun. The wagon bed was usually made of wood and was about four feet wide by ten feet long.
  2. Cover: The cover was made of canvas or similar durable cloth, stretched over hooped frames, providing shelter and goods for the occupants.
  3. Wheels: The wheels were often large and designed to handle rough terrain. The front wheels were usually smaller than the rear wheels, allowing easier turning.
  4. Draft Animals: Oxen, mules, or horses were commonly used to pull these wagons. Oxen were preferred for their strength and endurance, especially over long distances.
  5. Role in Expansion: Covered wagons were essential for westward migration in the U.S. They carried settlers’ belongings, including tools, food, and sometimes even passengers. These wagons were a vital part of the movement to settle the American West and were commonly seen on trails like the Oregon Trail, the Santa Fe Trail, and the California Trail.
  6. Living Quarters: The covered wagon was a temporary home for many settlers traveling west. Families would cook, eat, sleep, and spend much of their time in or around the wagon during their journey.
  7. Historical Significance: The image of a covered wagon crossing the plains has become an iconic symbol of American frontier life, representing the pioneer spirit, exploration, and the challenges of frontier life.

The use of covered wagons declined with the advent of railroads, which offered a faster and more efficient means of transporting goods and people across the country. However, their legacy remains an integral part of American history and folklore.

Odometer

Are we there yet?

An odometer was an instrument used by American pioneers, particularly during the westward expansion in the 19th century, to measure the distance traveled. These devices were vital for journeys along routes like the Old Spanish Trail, as they helped travelers gauge their progress, estimate their arrival times, and manage their resources more effectively.

Wagon odometer – Courtesy LDS Church

The basic principle of the odometer dates back to ancient times, with variations used by the Romans and Chinese. However, the version used on covered wagons was adapted to the needs of the pioneers. It typically involved a mechanism that counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel. Since the wheel’s circumference was known, each revolution corresponded to a specific distance traveled. This count was then converted into miles or another distance unit and displayed.

This simple but effective device was crucial for pioneers who had to navigate vast, often unmarked territories. Knowing how far they had traveled, they could make informed decisions about when to rest, resupply, or seek shelter, especially as they faced the weather, terrain, and other uncertainties of frontier travel.

Borax Wagons

The 20-mule team borax ore wagons used in the late 1800s to transport borax from the mines in Death Valley, California, were quite large and had specific dimensions.

Here are the approximate dimensions for a typical 20-mule team borax ore wagon:

  1. Length: Approximately 30 feet (9 meters)
  2. Width: About 8 feet (2.4 meters)
  3. Height: Around 7 feet (2.1 meters)
  4. Weight: These wagons weighed approximately 7 tons when fully loaded with borax ore.

These massive wagons required a team of 18 mules and two horses to pull them across the harsh desert terrain. They were an iconic part of the borax mining industry in the late 19th century and were crucial in transporting borax to the nearest railroad for distribution.

  1. Two large ore wagons were used to transport the borax ore from the mines in Death Valley to the nearest railroad for shipment. They were massive and could carry a significant amount of borax.
  2. One water tank wagon: There was a specialized tank wagon in addition to the two ore wagons. This wagon carried water for the mules and horses that pulled the wagons. The desert environment of Death Valley was harsh, and providing water for the animals was crucial to their survival during the long and arduous journey.

So, the 20-mule team borax wagons actually consisted of 18 mules and 2 horses pulling two ore wagons and one water tank wagon. These wagons became an iconic symbol of the borax mining industry in the late 19th century.

Borax

20-Mule Teams

Harmony

U.S. Highway 395

U.S. 395

U.S. Highway 395, often simply referred to as Highway 395, is a north-south highway that runs through the western part of the country. It spans approximately 1,300 miles (2,092 kilometers) from southern California to the border of Washington and Canada.

Part of this highway passes through the Mojave Desert in California. The Mojave Desert is known for its arid landscape, unique geological features, and desert flora and fauna. Highway 395 offers travelers the opportunity to experience the beauty and solitude of the Mojave Desert while providing access to various points of interest along the way.

Here are some key points about U.S. Highway 395:

  1. Route: U.S. 395 starts in Southern California and travels north through California, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington before reaching the Canadian border near Laurier, Washington. It roughly follows the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada mountain range.
  2. Scenic Route: Highway 395 is renowned for its scenic beauty and passes through a diverse range of landscapes, including deserts, mountain ranges, valleys, and forests. It offers breathtaking views of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Mono Lake, and the Eastern Sierra.
  3. Recreation: The highway provides access to numerous outdoor recreational opportunities, including hiking, skiing, fishing, camping, and boating in the various natural areas it traverses.
  4. Historical Sites: U.S. 395 also passes by several historical sites and attractions, such as the Manzanar National Historic Site (a former Japanese internment camp during World War II), the Eastern California Museum, and various mining and pioneer heritage sites.

Some notable places and attractions along U.S. Highway 395 in the Mojave Desert region include:

  1. Red Rock Canyon State Park: Located near Ridgecrest, this park features stunning red rock formations and hiking trails.
  2. Alabama Hills: Famous for its distinctive rock formations and used as a filming location for many Western movies.
  3. Manzanar National Historic Site: This site was once a Japanese internment camp during World War II and now serves as a reminder of this important period in American history.
  4. Death Valley National Park: While not directly on Highway 395, it’s a short drive to this famous national park known for its extreme heat, Badwater Basin, and unique desert landscapes.
  5. Lone Pine: A charming town with access to the Eastern Sierra, Mount Whitney, and the Eastern Sierra Visitor Center.
  6. Bishop: A larger town along the highway known for outdoor recreation, including fishing, hiking, and rock climbing.
  7. Mono Lake is a unique and ancient saline lake near Lee Vining with striking tufa towers.

Travelers along U.S. Highway 395 can experience the stark beauty of the Mojave Desert, explore its geological wonders, and access various outdoor recreational opportunities. It’s a popular route for road trips and exploration of California’s eastern Sierra region.

Overall, U.S. Highway 395 is a significant transportation corridor in the western United States, known for its stunning scenery, recreational opportunities, and historical significance. It offers travelers a chance to explore diverse landscapes and experience the beauty of the American West.

Midland Trail

Sierra Highway

Fort Tejon Road


Fort Tejon Road refers to a historic route in California that leads to Fort Tejon State Historic Park. Fort Tejon was established in 1854 and served as a military outpost during the turbulent times of the 19th century, addressing issues related to the Gold Rush and conflicts with Native American tribes.

The fort is located in the Grapevine Canyon, part of the Tehachapi Mountains in Kern County. The Fort Tejon Road provides access to the park and passes through scenic landscapes. The area is known for its historical significance and is a popular destination for those interested in California’s history.

1855

Visitors to Fort Tejon State Historic Park can explore the well-preserved buildings, learn about the fort’s history through exhibits, and participate in various events and demonstrations. The park is managed by the California Department of Parks and Recreation and serves as a reminder of the state’s military and cultural history during the mid-19th century.

Railfanning

mojavedesert.Net/railroads

Railfanning refers to the hobby or activity of watching, photographing, and sometimes documenting trains and railroads. Railfans, or rail enthusiasts, engage in railfanning for various reasons, including a fascination with trains, locomotives, and rail infrastructure, as well as an interest in the history and operations of railroads.

Railfanning activities can include:

  1. Spotting Trains: Railfans often visit train stations, rail yards, and scenic locations along rail lines to observe and photograph trains as they pass by.
  2. Photography and Videography: Railfans use cameras and video equipment to capture images and footage of trains. Some focus on capturing the unique designs of locomotives, while others may document rare or historic trains.
  3. Collecting Memorabilia: Railfans often collect items related to trains, such as timetables, tickets, and other memorabilia. Some may also collect model trains.
  4. Tracking Train Movements: With modern technology, railfans can use websites, apps, and radio scanners to track the movements of trains in real time. This allows them to plan their railfanning activities and capture specific trains.
  5. Engaging in Online Communities: Many railfans connect through online forums, social media groups, and websites dedicated to railfanning. They share their experiences, photos, and information about train sightings.
  6. Visiting Railroad Museums: Railfans may also enjoy visiting museums dedicated to preserving and showcasing the history of railroads. These museums often have static displays of historic locomotives and rolling stock.
  7. Documenting Railroad History: Some railfans are also historians who document the history of railroads in their region. They may research and compile information about past and present rail lines, companies, and infrastructure.

Railfanning is a diverse hobby with enthusiasts of all ages. The appeal of trains and railroads can range from an appreciation of engineering and technology to a nostalgic connection with the past. It’s a hobby that allows individuals to combine their love of transportation, history, and photography while enjoying the sights and sounds of trains in action.

Old Crump

In 1849, a wagon train bound for California split up, with many members opting for a supposed shortcut to the goldfields. The shortcut did not work out, and these intrepid wanderers found themselves stranded, lock, stock, barrel, and four children on the floor of a place called ‘Death Valley.’

Bennett’s Long Camp

Over a month of hardship and waiting had passed while two heroic young men walked to find a way out and return with supplies to bring this band of Lost 49ers to safety. This they did, returning with food, a white horse, and a one-eyed mule. Sadly enough, the white horse had to be abandoned in a dry fall in the Panamint Mountains.

With these heroes returning, they could make their escape. The children were weak, tired, and sick and would not make the trip if they had to walk, so the pioneers sewed several shirts together, making saddlebags to carry them in.

The children were uncomfortable and sick. They cried, but ‘Crump,’ the ox selected to bear this burden, seemed to sense the importance of carrying its cargo as gently as possible, never missing a step, stumbling, or even making a sudden, jarring move.

This ordeal, beginning late in 1849 and finishing up early in 1850, became a distant memory to the party members.

Years later, a much older William Manly, one of the two heroes who saved the emigrants (John Rogers being the other), was walking down a road in the Central Valley. He noticed that over in a shady pasture, there was a fat ox relishing the long, tender blades of grass. Strangely enough, the ox looked vaguely familiar. Sure enough, it was Old Crump, warm and gentle as ever.

Ox in pasture of green grass
Retired beast of burden – NPS photo

Back in 1850, when things settled after their hardship-fraught journey and arrival at their destination, the owner of the ox retired the creature as a reward for its distinguished service, and Crump never worked another day in his life.

Chapter XI – Death Valley in 49
Wm. Lewis Manly

Draft Oxen

Draft oxen are domesticated cattle trained to work as draft animals, primarily for agricultural purposes. They have been used for centuries in many parts of the world to pull plows, wagons, and other heavy loads. Oxen are typically castrated male cattle, and they are trained to respond to commands from their handlers.

NPS photo of oxen - ox tream
Oxen – NPS photo

Here are some key characteristics and advantages of using draft oxen:

  1. Strength: Oxen are strong animals, capable of pulling heavy loads, plowing fields, and performing other tasks requiring significant physical strength. They are often used for tilling soil and other agricultural activities.
  2. Endurance: Oxen are known for their endurance. They can work long hours, making them suitable for tasks requiring sustained effort, such as plowing large fields or pulling heavy loads over extended distances.
  3. Steadiness and Reliability: Oxen is generally known for its steady and reliable work. They are patient animals and can handle repetitive tasks at a consistent pace.
  4. Adaptability: Oxen are well-adapted to various climates and terrains. They can work in different conditions and are particularly useful in areas where mechanized equipment may not be practical or accessible.
  5. Low Maintenance: Oxen are often considered low-maintenance animals compared to some other draft animals. They can graze on pasture, and their dietary requirements are relatively simple. They also have sturdy hooves, which reduces the need for frequent hoof care.
  6. Draught Power: Oxen have been historically crucial for providing draught power in agriculture. They were widely used before the advent of mechanized farming equipment and are still used in some regions where traditional farming methods persist.
  7. Manure Production: Aside from their work capabilities, oxen also produce manure, which can be used as crop fertilizer. This contributes to the sustainability of agricultural practices.

While draft oxen have been widely used historically, the prevalence of mechanized agriculture has led to a decline in their use in many developed countries. However, in certain regions and for specific purposes, draft oxen continue to be valued for their strength, reliability, and suitability for sustainable and traditional farming practices. Training and working with oxen require skill and patience, as they respond well to positive reinforcement and consistent handling.

Draft Mules

Draft mules are hybrid animals created by mating a male donkey (jack) with a female horse (mare). The resulting offspring is known as a mule, and when specifically bred for heavy work, it is referred to as a draft mule. Draft mules are known for their strength, endurance, and intelligence, making them valuable partners in agricultural and heavy-duty tasks.

Here are some key characteristics and advantages of draft mules:

  1. Strength: Draft mules are robust, inheriting the strength of their horse and donkey parents. They are capable of pulling heavy loads and performing strenuous tasks.
  2. Endurance: Mules, in general, are known for their endurance. They can work long hours without tiring quickly, making them well-suited for demanding tasks in agriculture and transportation.
  3. Intelligence: Mules are considered intelligent animals, often possessing a combination of the best traits from both donkeys and horses. They are known for their problem-solving abilities and adaptability.
  4. Sure-footedness: Mules tend to be sure-footed, making them well-suited for navigating challenging terrains. This quality is particularly advantageous in agricultural settings or uneven landscapes.
  5. Economical: Draft mules are often considered more economical than some other draft animals. They typically have lower maintenance costs than some purebred draft horses and are known for being hardy and requiring less veterinary care.
  6. Longevity: Mules are known for their longevity. They often live longer than horses and can remain active and productive for many years.
  7. Versatility: Draft mules can be used for various tasks, including plowing fields, pulling wagons, logging, and other heavy agricultural work. Their adaptability makes them valuable in a range of settings.

Despite their many advantages, it’s essential to note that mules, like all animals, require proper care and training. Additionally, because mules are hybrids, they are usually sterile and cannot reproduce, unlike their horse and donkey parents.