Mid-winter through spring is a good time to hike up to Mt. Wilson. Even as Chantry Flat in the Big Santa Anita Canyon continues to heal from the Bobcat Fire of 2020, don’t feel like there’s no good way up to Mt. Wilson. If you’ve never done it, hiking up the Old Mount Wilson Trail from the scenic Sierra Madre is not a bad way. The canyon you’ll travel through on your way up toward Manzanita Ridge is known as the Little Santa Anita Canyon. This is the original way up to “Wilson’s Peak,” named after Don Benito Wilson. The trail dates back to the 1860s.
A view of Mt. Baldy from Manzanita Ridge.
Manzanita Ridge, sections of it quite true to its’ name, makes up the watershed divide between Winter Creek (to the north) and Little Santa Anita Canyon on the south. Following the ridge line up toward the Old Mount Wilson Toll Road views out into the High Country of the San Gabriels abound. Once up on the Toll Road, you’ll continue to walk along refrigerator-sized boulders that have dropped off the near vertical slopes of Mt. Harvard.
Once you reach Martin’s Saddle, the site of a once popular trail resort of the late 19th Century, views out toward the west are to be had. You’re now contouring the slopes of Upper Eaton Canyon, a beautifully rugged wilderness in its own right. Looking out across the steep and deep tributary canyons, there is, from left to right, Mt. Lowe, Mt. Markham (flat-topped), and San Gabriel Peak. When the air is clear, this scene is spectacular.
Boulders accumulate on the Mt. Wilson Toll Road after winter storms.A view across Upper Eaton Canyon
Once up at the top, I found a picnic bench in the open-air pavilion and soaked in the sunlight for some time before heading back down. The Pacific reflected back at me like an amber platter just to the north of the Palos Verdes peninsula. What a beautiful place to be hiking. What a beautiful place to be alive.
Mt. Baldy and Dawson Peak are seen from the PCT. This view looks across upper Lytle Creek and some miles below East Blue Ridge.
Vincent Gap trailhead is once again open to vehicles coming in through Wrightwood. Highway 2 continues to be gated to any driving west of the trailhead. If you’re looking to hike up to Mt. Baden Powell or drop down into the East Fork, all this is possible now and through the summer and autumn months.
Looking out across the East Fork of the San Gabriel River to Pine Mountain, Dawson Peak, and Mt. Baldy. This view is from a spur ridge just below the summit of Mt. Baden-Powell. A native Columbine graces the East Fork just downstream from Mine Gulch Campsite.
In the summer of 1845, Benjamin D Wilson, who owned part of the interest in the Jurupa Rancho, the site of the present city of Riverside, led a troop of Calvary in search of cattle rustlers.
Setting out from San Bernardino Valley, he divided his command. Most of the men he sent throughCajon Pass, keeping only 22 Mexican troopers with him to follow a trail across the mountains. Two days later, Wilson and his men reached the lake, where they sighted scores of grizzly bears.
Most of the soldiers had been vaqueros. They formed in pairs and drew reatas, each pair attacking a bear. One looped a rope around the bear’s neck; his companion roped the same bear by a hind foot. Then, the men drew apart to stretch the rope taut and hold the bear a prisoner. They bagged and skinned eleven bears, stretched their hides, and continued across the mountains to join the rest of the command in the desert at Rancho Las Flores on the Mojave River.
Here, the reunited party engaged Indians in a fight, after which Wilson and his 22 vaquero-troopers returned home by the way of the lake. They again found the place overrun with bears, and the same 22 soldiers brought in eleven more bears– enough to give them a bear rug apiece as a trophy. Then, Wilson named Bear Lake to the little body of water.
Years later, the name was changed to Baldwin Lake. The name survives, however, in Big Bear Lake, which was created at the site of the Talmadge Ranch in 1884 when a dam was built to provide a constant water supply for the Redlands District.
– adapted from ~ Pioneer Tales of San Bernardino County – WPA – 1940.
The California grizzly bear (Ursus arctos californicus) is a subspecies of the brown bear that once inhabited various regions of California. Historically, grizzly bears were found throughout the state, from the coast to the mountains and valleys. They were an important part of California’s wildlife and played a role in the culture and folklore of indigenous peoples.
California grizzly bear (Ursus arctos californicus)
Unfortunately, due to habitat loss, hunting, and human conflicts, the California grizzly bear population declined significantly throughout the 19th century. The last known California grizzly bear in the wild was killed in 1922 in Tulare County. The species was declared extinct in 1924.
Efforts have been made to preserve the memory of the California grizzly bear, and it is often symbolically represented in the state’s flag and seal. The California grizzly bear is also the state animal, even though it no longer exists in the wild.
1846 – 1910
1911 – 1952
Today
There have been occasional discussions and proposals for reintroducing grizzly bears to certain parts of California, but these efforts are complex and face challenges related to habitat, human-wildlife conflicts, and public opinion. As of my last knowledge update in January 2022, there were no active reintroduction programs in place. Still, it’s advisable to check for the latest information, as conservation efforts and plans may evolve.
Benjamin Wilson leads a posse of 22 men into the San Bernardino Mountains to search for Indians who had been raiding ranches in . He discovers Big Bear Valley and gives it the name it has today. Up until 1845, Bear Valley was known to the local Serrano Indians as Yahaviat, which means “Pine Place”. – bb
Gentrification is a complex and multifaceted process that typically involves the transformation of a neighborhood or community due to an influx of wealthier residents and increased property development. While gentrification is commonly associated with urban areas, how it might manifest in desert regions is worth considering.
In the context of desert areas like the Mojave Desert, some factors may contribute to changes in local communities:
Tourism Development: Deserts are often attractive to tourists seeking unique landscapes and experiences. Developing tourist infrastructure, such as upscale resorts, could change the local economy and demographics.
Environmental Conservation and Luxury Living: Some desert areas may become appealing to those seeking a more secluded or environmentally conscious lifestyle. This could lead to the development of upscale residences, potentially displacing existing communities.
Renewable Energy Projects: The Mojave Desert, particularly, has seen increased interest in renewable energy projects like solar farms. This can bring economic development but may also change the local population dynamics.
Artistic and Cultural Appeal: Artists and individuals attracted to the tranquility and unique landscapes of the desert may contribute to gentrification by establishing art communities or cultural hubs.
It’s crucial to note that the impact of gentrification can vary based on the specific characteristics of each desert region and the policies in place to address community concerns. Local governments and community organizations play a crucial role in shaping development patterns and mitigating the potential negative effects of gentrification, such as displacement of long-term residents and cultural erosion.
Mono Paiute wickiup – Edward Curtis 1900 (colorized)
A “wikiup” in the context of Native American culture typically refers to a traditional type of shelter or dwelling. It is a simple, dome-shaped structure constructed using a framework of branches or saplings. The frame is often covered with various materials, such as brush, reeds, grass, or sometimes animal hides. Various indigenous peoples in North America commonly used these shelters.
The design of wikiups varied among different tribes, reflecting the local environment and available resources. They were relatively easy to construct and could be adapted to different climates. Nomadic or semi-nomadic groups often used Wikiups as temporary or seasonal shelters.
It’s important to note that the term “wikiup” might be spelled or pronounced differently in various indigenous languages, and the specific features of these shelters could vary based on cultural and regional differences.
The most famous lost mine in the Death Valley area is the Lost Breyfogle. There are many versions of the legend, but all agree that somewhere in the bowels of those rugged mountains is a colossal mass of gold, which Jacob Breyfogle found and lost.
Mesquite Flats Sand Dunes – Death Valley
Jacob Breyfogle was a prospector who roamed the country around Pioche and Austin, Nevada, with infrequent excursions into theDeath Valleyarea. He traveled alone.
Indian George, Hungry Bill, and Panamint Tom saw Breyfogle several times in the country around Stovepipe Wells, but they could never trace him to his claim. When followed, George said, Breyfogle would step off the trail and completely disappear. Once George told me about trailing him into the Funeral Range. He pointed to the bare mountain. “Him there, me see. Pretty quick—” He paused, puckered his lips. “Whoop—no see.”
Breyfogle left a crude map of his course. All lost mines must have a map. Conspicuous on this map are the Death Valley Buttes which are landmarks. Because he was seen so much here, it was assumed that his operations were in the low foothills. I have seen a rough copy of this map made from the original in possession of “Wildrose” Frank Kennedy’s squaw, Lizzie.
Breyfogle presumably coming from his mine, was accosted near Stovepipe Wells by Panamint Tom, Hungry Bill, and a young buck related to them, known as Johnny. Hungry Bill, from habit, begged for food. Breyfogle refused, explaining that he had but a morsel and several hard days’ journey before him. On his burro he had a small sack of ore. When Breyfogle left, Hungry Bill said, “Him no good.”
Incited by Hungry Bill and possible loot, the Indians followed Breyfogle for three or four days across the range. Hungry Bill stopped en route, sent the younger Indians ahead. At Stump Springs east ofShoshone, Breyfogle was eating his dinner when the Indians sneaked out of the brush and scalped him, took what they wished of his possessions and left him for dead.
Ash Meadows Charlie, a chief of the Indians in that area confided to Herman Jones that he had witnessed this assault. This happened on the Yundt Ranch, or as it is better known, the Manse Ranch. Yundt and Aaron Winters accidentally came upon Breyfogle unconscious on the ground. The scalp wound was fly-blown. They had a mule team and light wagon and hurried to San Bernardinowith the wounded man. The ore, a chocolate quartz, was thrown into the wagon.
Resting Springs
“I saw some of it at Phi Lee’s home, theResting Spring Ranch,” Shorty Harris said. “It was the richest ore I ever saw. Fifty pounds yielded nearly $6000.”
Breyfogle recovered, but thereafter was regarded as slightly “off.” He returned to Austin, Nevada, and the story followed.
Wildrose (Frank) Kennedy, an experienced mining man obtained a copy of Breyfogle’s map and combed the country around the buttes in an effort to locate the mine. Kennedy had the aid of the Indians and was able to obtain, through his squaw Lizzie, such information as Indians had about the going and coming of the elusive Breyfogle.
“Some believe the ore came from around Daylight Springs,” Shorty said, “but old Lizzie’s map had no mark to indicate Daylight Springs. But it does show the buttes and the only buttes in Death Valley are those above Stovepipe Wells.
“Kennedy interested Henry E. Findley, an old time Colorado sheriff and Clarence Nyman, for years a prospector for Coleman andSmith(thePacific Borax Company). They induced Mat Cullen, a rich Salt Lake mining man, to leave his business and come out. They made three trips into the valley, looking for that gold. It’s there somewhere.”
Francis Marion “Borax” Smith
At Austin, Breyfogle was outfitted several times to relocate the property, but when he reached the lower elevation of the valley, he seemed to suffer some aberration which would end the trip. His last grubstaker was not so considerate. He told Breyfogle that if he didn’t find the mine promptly he’d make a sieve of him and was about to do it when a companion named Atchison intervened and saved his life. Shortly afterward, Breyfogle died from the old wound.
Indian George, repeating a story told him by Panamint Tom, once told me that Tom had traced Breyfogle to the mine and after Breyfogle’s death went back and secured some of the ore. Tom guarded his secret. He covered the opening with stone and leaving, walked backwards, obliterating his tracks with a greasewood brush. Later when Tom returned prepared to get the gold he found that a cloudburst had filled the canyon with boulders, gravel and silt, removing every landmark and Breyfogle’s mine was lost again.
“Some day maybe,” George said, “big rain come and wash um out.”
Among the freighters of the early days was John Delameter who believed the Breyfogle was in the lower Panamint. Delameter operated a 20 mule team freighting service between Daggett and points in both Death Valley and Panamint Valley. He told me that he found Breyfogle down in the road about twenty-eight miles south of Ballarat with a wound in his leg. Breyfogle had come into the Panamint from Pioche, Nevada, and said he had been attacked by Indians, his horses stolen, while working on his claim, which he located merely with a gesture toward the mountains.
Subsequently, Delameter made several vain efforts to locate the property, but like most lost mines, it continues to be lost. But it was good bait for a grubstake for years and served both the convincing liar and the honest prospector.
Nearly all old timers had a version of the Lost Breyfogle differing in details, but all agreed on the chocolate quartz and its richness.
That Breyfogle really lost a valuable mine, there can be little doubt, but since he is authentically traced from the northern end of Death Valley to the southern, and since the chocolate quartz is found in many places of that area, one who cares to look for it must cover a large territory.
“Gold Stone is the name of a new camp, thirty-five miles north of Barstow, where some phenomenal ore has been found. Quite a stampede followed the discovery.
The area is the site of the only commercial opal mine in the California Desert. Waterman. Five years before the famous silver discoveries at Calico, George G.
4 days ago … Post Views: 12. Goldstone, Barstow California, Mojave Desert. digital-desert.com › goldstone-ghost-town. Goldstone Ghost Town. More of a site …
Goldstone – Mojave Desert. Several people were involved in mining during this same time, including John Harper and Goodrich. 289. One of the most active …
Persistent rumors have it that gold … 1859: Bodie, California … by prospector Wakeman S. Bodey, who the town was named after. Bodey died in November making …
States: Primarily in California and Nevada, with smaller portions in Arizona and Utah. Extent: The Mojave Desert is part of the larger North American Desert and …
Some of the dry lake beds are Bicycle, Coyote, East Cronese, West Cronese, Goldstone, Langford Wells, Leach, Manix, Nelson, Pilot Knob Valley, Red Pass, and …
And now, with the operations of the Goldstone tracking station ushering the “space age” into the desert, the future holds promise far beyond the wildest dreams …
A long interaction history between people and the challenging desert environment marks the human (historical) geography of the Mojave Desert. Here are key aspects of the human history and settlement patterns in the Mojave Desert:
The construction of railroads, such as the Southern Pacific Railroad, was crucial in connecting the Mojave Desert to the broader transportation network.
Railroad towns, including Barstow, developed as important transportation hubs.
The historic Route 66, a major U.S. highway, passed through the Mojave Desert during the mid-20th century, bringing increased traffic, commerce, and tourism to the region.
Establishing national parks and preserves, such as Joshua Tree National Park and the Mojave National Preserve, reflects efforts to conserve the desert’s unique ecosystems and landscapes.
Modern Urbanization and Recreation:
Urban areas on the periphery of the Mojave Desert, such as Las Vegas, have experienced rapid growth.
The desert attracts tourists and outdoor enthusiasts interested in hiking, rock climbing, and stargazing.
Understanding the human history of the Mojave Desert involves recognizing the diverse ways different groups have interacted with the desert environment over time, from indigenous peoples adapting to the harsh conditions to the various waves of exploration, settlement, and economic activities that have shaped the region.
The Mojave Desert, situated in the southwestern United States, has a distinctive physical geography shaped by its unique combination of topography, climate, and ecosystems.
Here is an overview of the physical (regional) geography of the Mojave Desert:
Location:
The Mojave Desert spans southeastern California, southern Nevada, southwestern Utah, and northwestern Arizona. It is one of the four major deserts in North America.
Size:
The Mojave Desert covers approximately 47,877 square miles (124,000 square kilometers).
Topography:
The Mojave Desert features a diverse topography with mountain ranges, valleys, and extensive desert plains.
Prominent mountain ranges include the Mojave, Providence, New York, and Clark Mountains.
The Mojave Desert has a cold climate characterized by hot summers and mild winters.
Summer temperatures often exceed 100°F (38°C), while winter temperatures can drop below freezing, especially at higher elevations.
Rainfall is generally low, with most precipitation occurring during the winter months. The desert experiences occasional flash floods during intense rainstorms.
Natural water sources are limited, and the Mojave River is one of the few perennial rivers in the region.
Springs and oasis areas, such as Ash Meadows in Nevada, provide critical water sources for both wildlife and human activities.
Human Impact:
Human activities in the Mojave Desert include mining, military training areas, and recreational activities.
Cities such as Las Vegas, Nevada, and Lancaster, California, are located on the periphery of the Mojave Desert.
Protected Areas:
The Mojave National Preserve, Joshua Tree National Park, and portions of Death Valley National Park are examples of protected areas within the Mojave Desert, preserving its unique ecosystems and landscapes.
Understanding the physical geography of the Mojave Desert involves recognizing its diverse landforms, climate extremes, and the adaptations of both flora and fauna to the arid conditions. Additionally, human activities and efforts to preserve the desert’s unique features contribute to the overall regional geography of the Mojave.
