Bear Lake, Baldwin Lake and Big Bear Lake

In the summer of 1845, Benjamin D. Wilson, who owned part of the interest in the Jurupa Rancho, the site of the present city of Riverside, led a troop of Calvary in search of cattle rustlers.

Setting out from San Bernardino Valley, he divided his command. Most of the men he sent through Cajon Pass, keeping only 22 Mexican troopers with him to follow a trail across the mountains. Two days later, Wilson and his men reached the lake, where they sighted scores of grizzly bears.

Big Bear Lake

Most of the soldiers had been vaqueros. They formed in pairs and drew reatas, each pair attacking a bear. One looped a rope around the bear’s neck; his companion roped the same bear by a hind foot. Then, the men drew apart to stretch the rope taut and hold the bear a prisoner. They bagged and skinned eleven bears, stretched their hides, and continued across the mountains to join the rest of the command on the desert at Rancho Las Flores, on the Mojave River.

Here, the reunited party engaged Indians in a fight, after which Wilson and his 22 vaquero-troopers returned home by the lake. They again found the place overrun with bears, and the same 22 soldiers brought in eleven more bears—enough to give them a bear rug apiece as a trophy. It was then that Wilson gave the little body of water the name Bear Lake.

Years later, the name was changed to Baldwin Lake. The name survives, however, in Big Bear Lake, which was created at the site of the Talmadge Ranch in 1884, when a dam was built to provide a constant water supply for the Redlands District.


Adapted from ~ Pioneer Tales of San Bernardino County – WPA – 1940.

#5 – Mojave National Preserve: A Vast Desert Wilderness

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The Mojave National Preserve, encompassing over 1.6 million acres, offers diverse landscapes, wildlife, and recreational activities. Located in southeastern California, the preserve is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers. Here’s an expanded look at what makes the Mojave National Preserve a popular destination:

Key Features and Attractions

  1. Kelso Dunes:
    • Dune Field: Covering over 45 square miles, the Kelso Dunes are some of the tallest dunes in North America, with the highest peak rising about 650 feet.
    • Hiking and Exploration: Visitors can hike to the top of the dunes for panoramic views and experience the phenomenon of “singing sands,” a booming sound produced by the movement of the sand.
    • Sunset Views: The dunes are stunning at sunset when the shifting light creates dramatic shadows and colors.
  2. Hole-in-the-Wall:
    • Geological Features: This area is named for its unique rock formations created by volcanic activity and erosion. The walls are filled with holes and cavities, giving the area its distinctive appearance.
    • Rings Loop Trail: A popular 1.5-mile loop trail that features metal rings bolted into the rock to help hikers navigate steep sections of the trail. The trail offers a close-up view of the fascinating rock formations.
    • Visitor Center: The Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center provides exhibits on the area’s geology, wildlife, and cultural history.
  3. Cinder Cone Lava Beds:
    • Volcanic Landscape: This area features ancient volcanic cones, lava flows, and craters, offering a rugged and dramatic landscape.
    • Hiking Trails: Trails wind through the lava beds, providing opportunities to explore the unique terrain and view the surrounding desert.
  4. Mitchell Caverns:
    • Limestone Caves: Located in the Providence Mountains State Recreation Area, these caverns are filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and other fascinating formations.
    • Guided Tours: The only way to explore the caverns is through guided tours offered by California State Parks, which provide insights into the caves’ geological history and natural features.
  5. Mojave Road:
    • Historic Route: The Mojave Road is a historic 140-mile off-road trail that follows a route used by Native Americans, early explorers, and settlers. It provides a challenging and adventurous way to experience the preserve.
    • Landmarks: Along the route, travelers can see historic sites, old military forts, and natural landmarks. The route requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle and careful planning.

Wildlife and Plant Life

  • Desert Flora: The preserve has various desert plants, including Joshua trees, creosote bushes, cacti, and wildflowers. Springtime can bring vibrant blooms, adding color to the landscape.
  • Wildlife: The preserve’s diverse habitats support a wide range of wildlife, including bighorn sheep, coyotes, desert tortoises, and numerous bird species. The varying elevations and environments within the preserve create unique ecosystems.

Recreational Activities

  1. Hiking:
    • Diverse Trails: The preserve offers a range of hiking trails, from short nature walks to strenuous backcountry routes. Trails provide opportunities to explore the varied landscapes and observe the native flora and fauna.
    • Backpacking: For those seeking a more immersive experience, the preserve offers backcountry camping and backpacking opportunities. Permits are required for overnight stays.
  2. Camping:
    • Developed Campgrounds: The preserve has several developed campgrounds, including Hole-in-the-Wall and Mid Hills, which offer amenities such as picnic tables, fire rings, and restrooms.
    • Dispersed Camping: For a more primitive experience, visitors can camp in designated areas throughout the preserve. Dispersed camping allows for solitude and a closer connection with nature.
  3. Stargazing:
    • Dark Skies: The remote location of the preserve provides excellent conditions for stargazing. The lack of light pollution allows for clear views of the night sky, making it a perfect spot for observing stars, planets, and meteor showers.
  4. Bird Watching:
    • Diverse Bird Species: The varied habitats within the preserve attract a wide range of bird species, making it a popular destination for bird watchers. Seasonal migrations and diverse environments provide opportunities to see both resident and migratory birds.
  5. Off-Roading:
    • Designated Routes: The preserve has numerous designated off-road vehicle routes, offering adventurous ways to explore the rugged terrain. It’s important to stay on designated routes to protect the environment and adhere to regulations.

Historical and Cultural Sites

  • Kelso Depot: A restored 1924 Union Pacific train depot now serving as the preserve’s visitor center. The depot features exhibits on the history of the railroad, mining, and desert communities.
  • Rock Springs Land and Cattle Company: Historical ranch buildings and corrals that provide a glimpse into the ranching history of the area.

Conservation and Preservation

  • Protected Area: The Mojave National Preserve is managed by the National Park Service, protecting its unique landscapes, wildlife, and cultural resources.
  • Leave No Trace: Visitors are encouraged to practice Leave No Trace principles, minimizing their impact on the environment and helping to preserve the preserve’s natural beauty and integrity.

Visitor Information

  • Accessibility: The preserve is accessible via Interstate 15 and Interstate 40, with several entry points and visitor centers providing information and resources.
  • Seasonal Considerations: The best times to visit are spring and fall when temperatures are moderate. Summer temperatures can be extreme, and winter can bring cold nights and occasional snow at higher elevations.

The Mojave National Preserve offers a diverse and captivating landscape with countless opportunities for exploration and adventure. Whether hiking through rugged canyons, climbing towering dunes, or simply soaking in the vast desert vistas, the preserve provides a memorable and enriching experience for all who visit.

#6 – Trona Pinnacles: A Unique Geological Wonderland

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The Trona Pinnacles, located in the California Desert National Conservation Area near the town of Trona, offer a striking landscape of unusual tufa formations rising dramatically from the desert floor. Here’s an expanded look at what makes the Trona Pinnacles a popular destination:

Geological Significance

  • Formation: The Trona Pinnacles are composed of tufa, a type of limestone that forms in alkaline lake waters. These formations were created 10,000 and 100,000 years ago when the area was submerged under the prehistoric Searles Lake.
  • Structure: The site features over 500 pinnacles, ranging from small spires to large towers that reach up to 140 feet. These formations vary in shape and size, creating a surreal and otherworldly landscape.

Attractions and Activities

  1. Exploring the Pinnacles:
    • Self-Guided Tours: Visitors can explore the pinnacles at their own pace, walking among the formations and marveling at their unique shapes and textures. The area is open for hiking and offers numerous trails and pathways.
    • Interpretive Signs: Informational signs throughout the site provide insights into the geological history of the pinnacles, explaining how they were formed and their significance.
  2. Photography:
    • Landscape Photography: The Trona Pinnacles are a favorite subject for photographers due to their striking appearance and the dramatic contrasts between the tufa towers and the surrounding desert. The light at sunrise and sunset casts a magical glow on the formations, enhancing their visual appeal.
    • Astrophotography: The remote location and dark skies make the Trona Pinnacles an excellent spot for stargazing and astrophotography. The formations provide unique foregrounds for night sky photography, including stunning views of the Milky Way.
  3. Off-Roading and Vehicle Access:
    • Off-Road Trails: The area around the Trona Pinnacles is accessible by dirt roads suitable for high-clearance and four-wheel-drive vehicles. Off-road enthusiasts can enjoy exploring the rugged terrain and discovering hidden viewpoints.
    • Scenic Drives: For those who prefer a more leisurely visit, scenic drives through the area offer beautiful views of the pinnacles and the surrounding desert landscape.
  4. Camping:
    • Primitive Camping: The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) allows primitive camping near the Trona Pinnacles. Campers can set up their tents or park their RVs in designated areas, providing a unique opportunity to experience the pinnacles up close, especially during sunrise and sunset.
    • Stargazing: Camping overnight offers a chance to enjoy the clear desert skies, which are perfect for stargazing and experiencing the tranquility of the desert.
  5. Filming and Events:
    • Film Location: The Trona Pinnacles have been used as a backdrop for numerous movies, TV shows, and commercials due to their otherworldly appearance. Productions like “Star Trek V: The Final Frontier” and “Planet of the Apes” have featured scenes shot at the pinnacles.
    • Special Events: Occasionally, the area hosts special events such as photography workshops, stargazing parties, and off-road vehicle rallies, providing unique opportunities for visitors to engage with the site.

Visitor Information

  • Location and Access: The Trona Pinnacles are about 20 miles east of Ridgecrest, California. The access road to the pinnacles is a graded dirt road off Highway 178, which can be rough in places but is generally passable for most vehicles.
  • Facilities: The Trona Pinnacles do not have developed facilities. Visitors should come prepared with their water, food, and supplies. Portable toilets are sometimes available, but it’s best to be self-sufficient.

Best Times to Visit

  • Spring and Fall: These seasons offer mild temperatures, making it the best time for outdoor activities such as hiking and camping. Springtime may also bring wildflower blooms, adding color to the landscape.
  • Winter: Winter can be a good time to visit if you prefer cooler weather, but be prepared for cold nights. The clear winter skies are excellent for stargazing.

Conservation and Preservation

  • Protected Area: The Trona Pinnacles are managed by the Bureau of Land Management as part of the California Desert National Conservation Area. Efforts are made to preserve the site’s unique geological features and natural beauty.
  • Responsible Tourism: Visitors are encouraged to practice Leave No Trace principles, respecting the delicate desert environment and minimizing their impact on the land and formations.

Nearby Attractions

  • Searles Valley Minerals: The nearby town of Trona is known for its mineral processing facilities. The Searles Valley Minerals plant conducts an annual Gem-O-Rama event, where visitors can collect various minerals and crystals from the Searles Lake deposits.
  • Death Valley National Park: Located to the east, Death Valley National Park offers additional opportunities for exploring diverse desert landscapes, unique geological features, and historic sites.

Educational and Interpretive Programs

  • Guided Tours and Talks: Occasionally, the BLM or local organizations may offer guided tours and interpretive talks about the geology and natural history of the Trona Pinnacles, providing deeper insights into the site’s formation and significance.

The Trona Pinnacles offer a unique and memorable experience for visitors interested in geology, photography, outdoor adventure, and the natural beauty of the Mojave Desert. Whether exploring the pinnacles on foot, capturing their striking forms with a camera, or simply soaking in the serene desert atmosphere, the Trona Pinnacles provide an extraordinary destination for all who visit.

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