Late winter through spring is a really good time to hike up to Mt. Wilson. Even as Chantry Flat in the Big Santa Anita Canyon continues to heal from the Bobcat Fire of 2020, don’t feel like there’s no good way up to Mt. Wilson. If you’ve never done it, hiking up the Old Mount Wilson Trail from scenic Sierra Madre, is not a bad way to go. The canyon you’ll travel through on your way up toward Manzanita Ridge is known as the Little Santa Anita Canyon. This is the original way up to “Wilson’s Peak”, named after Don Benito Wilson. The trail dates back to the 1860’s
A view of Mt. Baldy from Manzanita Ridge.
Manzanita Ridge, sections of it quite true to its’ name, makes up the watershed divide between the Winter Creek (to the north) and Little Santa Anita Canyon on the south. Following the ridge line up toward the Old Mount Wilson Toll Road, views out into the High Country of the San Gabriels abound. Once up on the Toll Road, you’ll continue to walk along refrigerator-sized boulders that have dropped off the near vertical slopes of Mt. Harvard.
Once you reach Martin’s Saddle, the site of a once popular trail resort of the late 19th Century, views out toward the west are to be had. You’re now contouring the slopes of Upper Eaton Canyon, a beautifully rugged wilderness in its’ own right. Looking out across the steep and deep tributary canyons, there is from left to right, Mt. Lowe, Mt. Markham (flat-topped) and San Gabriel Peak. When the air is clear, this scene is spectacular.
Boulders accumulate on the Mt. Wilson Toll Road after winter storms.A view across Upper Eaton Canyon
Once up at the top, I found a picnic bench in the open-air pavilion and soaked in the sunlight for some time before heading back down. The Pacific reflected at me like an amber platter just north of the Palos Verdes peninsula. What a beautiful place to be hiking. What a beautiful place to be alive.
Mt. Baldy and Dawson Peak are seen from the PCT. This view looks across upper Lytle Creek and some miles below East Blue Ridge.
Vincent Gap trailhead is again open to vehicles coming in through Wrightwood. Highway 2 continues to be gated to any driving west of the trailhead. If you’re looking to hike up to Mt. Baden Powell or drop down into the East Fork, all this is possible now and through the summer and autumn months.
Looking out across the East Fork of the San Gabriel River to Pine Mountain, Dawson Peak, and Mt. Baldy. This view is from a spur ridge just below the summit of Mt. Baden-Powell.A native Columbine graces the East Fork just downstream from Mine Gulch Campsite .
The indigenous peoples of the Mojave Desert, such as the Mojave, Chemehuevi, Serrano, and others, developed the first trails through the desert based on a deep understanding of the natural environment, honed over generations of living in this challenging landscape. These trails were not found by accident but were carefully established routes facilitating travel, trade, and access to resources within the desert and between different ecological zones. Here are some key methods and considerations that these indigenous peoples likely used to establish the trails:
Water Sources: Finding and remembering the locations of reliable water sources was crucial for survival in the desert. Trails often connected springs, rivers, and waterholes that could sustain travelers through the arid landscape.
Landmarks: Natural landmarks such as mountains, rock formations, and distinctive vegetation would have served as navigation aids, helping to guide the way and mark progress along the trails.
Seasonal Variations: Understanding the seasonal changes in the desert, including variations in water availability and the movement of game animals, would have influenced the timing and direction of travel on these trails.
Trade and Social Networks: Trails facilitated trade and communication between indigenous groups. They were designed to connect communities and trading posts, enabling the exchange of goods, ideas, and cultural practices.
Observation and Oral Tradition: Knowledge of the landscape and its best routes would have been passed down through generations, with each generation refining and adding to this knowledge base. This oral tradition ensured that valuable information about navigating the desert was retained and shared within communities.
Adaptation to the Environment: Trails would have been adjusted and modified over time in response to environmental changes, such as the shifting of water sources or the growth of new obstacles. This adaptive approach ensured that the trails remained viable over long periods.
These trails, established through intimate knowledge of the desert environment, would later be used by European explorers, settlers, and others as they moved through the Mojave Desert. The legacy of these indigenous trail-making practices is a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of the desert’s original inhabitants.
OpenAI. (2024). ChatGPT (4) [Large language model]. https://chat.openai.com
Lake Manix is an ancient lake in what is now the Mojave Desert of California, USA. It was part of the ancient Mojave River system, which flowed through the area during periods of the Pleistocene epoch when the climate was wetter than it is today. The presence of this lake is a testament to the dramatically different environmental conditions that prevailed in the region thousands of years ago.
Lake Manix
In its ancient course, the Mojave River fed into Lake Manix, creating a significant water body supporting diverse flora and fauna. This ancient river system was vital for migrating and sustaining animals and possibly early human populations. Over time, Lake Manix eventually dried as the climate became warmer, and the Mojave River’s flow diminished significantly. The remnants of this ancient river system can still be traced in the modern landscape of the Mojave Desert, with the Mojave River now flowing intermittently and largely underground.
Archaeological and geological evidence from the Lake Manix area provides valuable insights into the climatic changes that have occurred over millennia in the Mojave Desert. Studies of sediment deposits, fossil records, and other geological features around the former lake site help scientists reconstruct the paleoenvironmental conditions, offering clues about water availability, vegetation types, and the animals that once inhabited the region.
The transition from a wetter, lake-dominant landscape to the arid desert environment of today highlights the dynamic nature of Earth’s climate and ecosystems. Understanding the history of Lake Manix and the ancient Mojave River system contributes to our knowledge of past climatic shifts. It helps inform current and future conservation efforts in desert ecosystems.
Coyote Arm of Lake Manix
The Coyote arm of Lake Manix refers to a specific portion or segment of ancient Lake Manix, which existed during the Pleistocene epoch in what is now the Mojave Desert of California. This area is particularly interesting to geologists and archaeologists because it provides evidence of the extent of the lake and the environmental conditions that prevailed in the region.
Lake Manix covered a large area and had multiple “arms” or extensions, with the Coyote arm being one of them. These arms were parts of the lake that extended into different valleys or low-lying areas, filled by the ancient Mojave River and its tributaries. The existence of these arms indicates that the lake’s water levels and boundaries changed over time, influenced by climatic fluctuations, precipitation patterns, and river flow dynamics.
Studying the Coyote arm and other parts of Lake Manix helps scientists reconstruct the paleohydrology of the region. By examining sediment layers, fossil remains, and other geological features, researchers can infer past water levels, the timing of lake expansion and contraction, and the habitats around the lake. This information is crucial for understanding how ancient ecosystems responded to climate change and how they supported early human populations and other species.
Evidence from the Coyote arm and similar areas around the former Lake Manix also contributes to our understanding of the broader paleoclimatic patterns in North America. Such studies are part of a larger effort to piece together the history of Earth’s climate and how it has shaped the development of landscapes and ecosystems over geological time scales.
Troy Lake arm of Lake Manix
The Troy Lake arm of Lake Manix represents another significant segment of the ancient Lake Manix, which was a part of the extensive Pleistocene-age lake system in the Mojave Desert, California. Like the Coyote arm, the Troy Lake arm was one of the various extensions or branches of Lake Manix, fed by the ancient Mojave River and its tributaries during a time when the climate was considerably wetter than it is today.
The presence of the Troy Lake arm and other arms like the Coyote arm indicate the region’s complex hydrology and varied topography during the Pleistocene. These arms were essentially the lake’s extensions into surrounding valleys, creating diverse habitats for various plant and animal life. These lake arms’ fluctuating boundaries and water levels, driven by climatic variations, offer valuable insights into past environmental conditions.
Researchers study the Troy Lake arm and focus on sediment deposits, fossilized remains, and other geological indicators to understand the lake’s hydrology, such as water depth, extent, and changes over time. These studies contribute to a broader understanding of how ancient lake systems like Lake Manix responded to glacial and interglacial cycles, influencing precipitation patterns, temperature, and, ultimately, the region’s hydrography.
The research on the Troy Lake arm, alongside other parts of Lake Manix, is crucial for reconstructing past climates and ecosystems. It helps in understanding the challenges faced by early human settlers and the strategies they employed for survival. Moreover, it provides context for current environmental changes and aids in predicting future climatic shifts, especially in desert regions like the Mojave, which are sensitive indicators of broader environmental transformations.
Afton Canyon
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Afton Canyon, often called the “Grand Canyon of the Mojave,” is a striking geological feature in California’s Mojave Desert. It is renowned for its dramatic landscape, including steep canyon walls, rare desert waterways, and various wildlife. The formation of Afton Canyon is closely tied to the history of Lake Manix and the ancient Mojave River system.
During the Pleistocene epoch, when Lake Manix existed, it was a significant water body fed by the Mojave River, which carried meltwater from glaciers in the mountains to the north. Over time, the climate became drier, and the lake levels fluctuated. Eventually, Lake Manix breached its natural dam, leading to a catastrophic water outflow. This event was a pivotal moment in the formation of Afton Canyon.
The breach of Lake Manix’s dam caused a massive release of water that carved through the landscape, creating Afton Canyon. Rapid erosion cut deeply into the sediment and rock, forming the canyon’s distinctive steep walls. The force of the water was so powerful that it removed vast amounts of material, shaping the canyon into its present form.
Today, Afton Canyon remains one of the few places in the Mojave Desert where the Mojave River flows above ground, offering a rare glimpse into the water’s erosive power that shaped the landscape. The canyon’s formation is a testament to the dynamic geological processes that have occurred over millennia, driven by climatic shifts and water movement.
The role of Lake Manix in forming Afton Canyon highlights the interconnectedness of geological features within the Mojave Desert. It illustrates how ancient lakes, rivers, and climatic conditions have sculpted the region’s unique landscapes. Afton Canyon’s creation is a prime example of how water, even in arid environments, can be a powerful change agent, carving through the earth to create spectacular natural features.
Addressing littering, illegal dumping, vandalism, and theft in natural areas like the Mojave Desert requires a multifaceted approach, considering prevention and remediation. Here are some strategies that can be employed:
Education and Awareness
Public Education Campaigns: Educating the public about the ecological, cultural, and historical significance of the Mojave Desert can foster a sense of stewardship. Campaigns can highlight the negative impacts of littering, dumping, vandalism, and theft.
School Programs: Integrating environmental education into school curriculums can instill values of conservation and respect for nature in young people.
Enforcement and Regulation
Increased Surveillance: Deploying more rangers or utilizing surveillance technology in high-risk areas can deter potential offenders.
Stricter Penalties: Implementing harsher penalties for violations can serve as a deterrent. This could include higher fines, community service in environmental cleanup, and legal action for more serious offenses.
Quick Response to Incidents: Rapid response to reports of dumping, vandalism, or theft can help catch perpetrators and serve as a deterrent to others.
Community Engagement and Participation
Volunteer Cleanup Events: Organizing community cleanups can address existing litter and dumping and foster a sense of community ownership and responsibility.
Adopt-a-Spot Programs: Encouraging individuals, families, or groups to “adopt” areas of the desert for regular monitoring and maintenance can help maintain cleanliness and report issues quickly.
Infrastructure and Accessibility
Better Waste Management Facilities: Providing accessible and convenient disposal options near the Mojave area can reduce the likelihood of illegal dumping.
Improved Signage: Clear, informative signage about rules, regulations, and the importance of preservation can serve as both an educational tool and a deterrent.
Technology and Innovation
Mobile Apps: Developing and promoting mobile apps that allow visitors to report litter, dumping, vandalism, or theft in real-time can aid in quick responses and create a database of problem areas.
Social Media: Utilizing social media platforms to share information, organize cleanup events, and foster a digital community of stewards can enhance engagement and awareness.
Partnerships
Collaboration with Local Businesses: Engaging local businesses in sponsorship opportunities for cleanup events or educational programs can enhance resources and community involvement.
Partnerships with Environmental Organizations: Working with NGOs and environmental groups can bring expertise, volunteers, and additional resources for conservation efforts.
Solving these issues in the Mojave Desert requires persistent efforts across multiple fronts. It’s about creating and nurturing a culture of respect and care for the environment, backed by effective enforcement and community involvement.
“The Story of Inyo” by W.A. Chalfant is a comprehensive history of Inyo County, California, first published in 1922. W.A. Chalfant (1865-1943) was a newspaperman and historian who spent much of his life in the Eastern Sierra region of California. His work is considered one of the seminal histories of this part of California, detailing the early exploration, settlement, and development of Inyo County.
The book covers a wide range of topics, including the area’s indigenous peoples, the impact of European settlement, mining, and economic development, and the natural history and geography of the region. Chalfant’s writing is noted for its detailed research, engaging narrative style, and commitment to telling the stories of the Native American inhabitants and the settlers who came to the area.
Inyo County is a region of great diversity and contrast, home to some of the highest and lowest points in the contiguous United States, including Mount Whitney and Death Valley. This geographic and environmental diversity is reflected in the stories Chalfant tells, from tales of survival and adaptation in harsh landscapes to the boom and bust of mining towns and the ongoing challenges and conflicts over land and water use.
Mono Lake
Petroglyphs
“The Story of Inyo” remains an essential resource for historians, geographers, and anyone interested in the American West, offering insights into the complex history of human and environmental interaction in this unique part of California.
The Baker Grade is a renowned and challenging stretch of the Interstate 15 (I-15) freeway in the Mojave Desert near Baker, California. This freeway segment is characterized by its steep incline and decline over a long distance, presenting a significant test for vehicles, especially during the extreme temperatures in this desert region. The I-15 is a critical highway connecting Southern California, Los Angeles, and San Diego, as well as Las Vegas, Nevada. Further, it extends towards Salt Lake City, Utah, making the Baker Grade a crucial passage for travelers and freight transport.
Baker, the small town near this stretch of the I-15, is often cited as the “Gateway to Death Valley,” serving as a critical rest and supply stop for those en route to Death Valley National Park and other destinations in the Mojave Desert. The town is famous for the World’s Tallest Thermometer, a 134-foot tall structure designed to commemorate the highest temperature recorded in Death Valley (134°F in 1913) and symbolize the region’s extreme heat.
The Baker Grade’s significance goes beyond its physical challenge; it is a testament to the engineering and planning required to maintain such a vital artery through one of the most inhospitable terrains in the United States. Travelers navigating this section are advised to ensure their vehicle’s cooling system is in optimal condition, to carry plenty of water, and to be prepared for the possibility of extreme weather conditions, which can range from scorching heat to sudden cold in the winter months.
State Highway 127 to Death Valley
Moreover, the Mojave Desert’s stark, austere beauty offers a unique backdrop for this portion of the I-15. It makes the journey through the Baker Grade memorable for its scenic vistas and physical demands. Despite the challenges it presents, the Baker Grade is an essential component of the southwestern U.S. transportation network, facilitating commerce and travel between California and Nevada.
Deep Creek Hot Springs, located near Apple Valley in the Mojave Desert of Southern California, is a popular natural attraction within the San Bernardino National Forest. These hot springs are renowned for their scenic beauty and the therapeutic benefits of the mineral-rich waters. The area around Deep Creek Hot Springs offers a variety of outdoor activities, including hiking, swimming, and wildlife viewing.
Access to Deep Creek Hot Springs is primarily through hiking trails, the most common being the Bradford Ridge Path from the high desert side and the Pacific Crest Trail from the Lake Arrowhead side. The hike to the hot springs is known for its rugged terrain, offering a moderate to challenging trek depending on the path chosen and the hiker’s experience level.
The hot springs themselves are situated along Deep Creek, a tributary of the Mojave River. The area features several pools with varying temperatures, allowing visitors to choose their preferred level of warmth. The surrounding environment is a mix of desert and riparian zones, home to various plant and animal species.
It’s important to note that visiting Deep Creek Hot Springs requires adherence to local regulations and respect for the natural environment. The area is managed by the U.S. Forest Service, which may impose restrictions to protect the habitat and ensure the safety and enjoyment of all visitors. Additionally, due to its remote location and the necessity of hiking to reach the hot springs, visitors should be well-prepared with adequate water, food, and safety gear.
Cartago Landing holds a significant place in the history of the Owens Valley and Eastern Sierra region of California, particularly during the era when Owens Lake was a fully watered body. Cartago Landing served as a crucial point for transporting and shipping goods before the lake’s desiccation due to water diversion to Los Angeles via the Los Angeles Aqueduct in the early 20th century.
Pre-Aqueduct Era:
Economic Hub: Cartago Landing, situated on the shores of Owens Lake, was an important economic hub in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The lake provided a natural route for transporting goods, making Cartago a vital location for loading and unloading cargo to be distributed throughout the Owens Valley and beyond.
Steamship Operations: The use of steamships on Owens Lake facilitated the movement of silver ore from mines in the area, particularly from Cerro Gordo, to Cartago Landing. From there, the ore was transported to processing facilities or railheads for further distribution. This mode of transportation was critical for the mining industry, which was a significant economic driver in the region during that period.
Environmental and Economic Impact: The construction of the Los Angeles Aqueduct, which began in 1908 and was completed in 1913, profoundly impacted Owens Lake and Cartago Landing. The diversion of water to Los Angeles led to the drying up of Owens Lake, rendering the lakebed a source of dust pollution and significantly altering the ecological and economic landscape of the region.
Loss of Waterway: Cartago Landing and its role as a transportation and economic hub ceased with the lake’s desiccation. The area transformed from a vibrant community centered around the lake’s resources to one grappling with the environmental and health impacts of dust storms from the dry lakebed.
Modern Efforts and Legacy:
Environmental Restoration: In recent decades, efforts have been made to mitigate the dust pollution from the dried lakebed, including partial rewatering projects and establishing ground cover to stabilize the soil. These efforts are part of broader environmental restoration initiatives in the Owens Valley.
Historical Recognition: The history of Cartago Landing, along with the broader story of Owens Lake and the impact of water diversion, remains an important chapter in California’s environmental history. It serves as a reminder of the complex interplay between natural resource management, urban development, and environmental stewardship.
The transition of Cartago Landing from a bustling port to a reminder of ecological change underscores the profound impact human actions can have on the environment. It highlights the ongoing challenges of balancing water needs, environmental health, and community well-being in the arid West.
The transition from horse-drawn vehicles to automobiles in the Mojave Desert, much like in other parts of the United States and the world, marked a significant shift in transportation, lifestyle, and economic activities. This changeover happened primarily in the early 20th century, driven by the broader adoption of the automobile as a more efficient and reliable means of transportation. Here are several key aspects of this transition:
1. Impact on Transportation
Speed and Efficiency: Automobiles offered much faster and more reliable transportation than horse-drawn vehicles. This efficiency was crucial in the vast and challenging terrain of the Mojave Desert, where distances between towns and water sources can be significant.
Infrastructure Development: The rise of automobiles necessitated the development of roads suitable for vehicle traffic. In the Mojave Desert, this meant creating and improving roads that could withstand the harsh desert conditions.
2. Economic Changes
Decline of Traditional Industries: The demand for services related to horse-drawn transportation, such as blacksmiths and farriers, saw a decline as automobiles became more prevalent.
New Opportunities: At the same time, new economic opportunities arose, including those related to automobile maintenance, fuel stations, and roadside accommodations for travelers.
3. Social and Cultural Impact
Accessibility: Automobiles made the Mojave Desert more accessible for residents and tourists. This accessibility profoundly impacted the social fabric and cultural exchanges within the region.
Lifestyle Changes: The ease of travel allowed for greater mobility, changing where people lived, worked, and how they spent their leisure time.
4. Environmental Considerations
Impact on the Landscape: Road construction and increased vehicle traffic had environmental impacts on the desert landscape, affecting native plant and animal species.
Resource Consumption: Automobiles also changed resource consumption, including increased demand for petroleum and water for cooling engines, which must be considered in the desert’s scarce water supply context.
5. Historical Context
Early Adoption and Challenges: The adoption of automobiles in remote areas like the Mojave Desert came with challenges, including limited access to fuel and mechanical services. Early automobiles were not as reliable as they are today, and breakdowns in the desert could be life-threatening.
Route 66 and Other Roads: The construction of Route 66, which passes through the Mojave Desert, was a significant factor in the desert’s automotive history. It facilitated increased travel and commerce, symbolizing the American West’s automotive transition.
This transition was part of the broader technological and societal shifts occurring in the early 20th century, reflecting the changing American landscape and the Mojave Desert’s unique challenges and opportunities.
