Historical – Page 2

Bear Valley

Historical Timeline

Big Bear, California, began as Yuhaaviatam homeland, later drawing gold seekers, ranchers, and dam builders. From Holcomb Valley’s 1860 rush to a four-season resort, its story blends natural beauty, resource ingenuity, and mountain tradition.

Prehistory
• The Big Bear Valley has been inhabited for thousands of years by the Yuhaaviatam (Serrano) people, who live in seasonal villages and call the area “Yuhaaviat,” meaning “Pine Place.”

1845
• Benjamin Davis Wilson leads a posse into the San Bernardino Mountains in pursuit of raiders. The group encounters numerous grizzly bears and kills several, naming the area “Big Bear Valley.”

1850s
• Early trappers and cattlemen moved through the San Bernardino Mountains. The valley remains largely remote and unsettled.

1860
• William F. “Bill” Holcomb discovers gold in Holcomb Valley, triggering a rush that brings hundreds of miners and creates mining camps such as Belleville, Union Town, and Clapboard Town.

1861–1862
• The Holcomb Valley boom peaks; San Bernardino County’s population surges. Belleville nearly becomes the county seat but loses to San Bernardino by two votes.

1863–1865
• Decline of the first gold boom as surface gold plays out. Miners leave, and the valley returns to quiet ranching and logging activity.

1870s
• Elias J. “Lucky” Baldwin acquires mining claims around Baldwin Lake and forms the Gold Mountain Mining Company. A second wave of mining begins, centered on the Baldwin Mine.

1884
• Frank Elwood Brown, a Redlands citrus grower, constructs the first Bear Valley Dam, a single-arch granite structure. The reservoir created by this dam was named Big Bear Lake.

1890s
• Big Bear’s role shifts from mining to recreation. Hunters, anglers, and early tourists begin to visit the mountain lake area. Lodges and cabins start to appear.

1903
• Lower-valley growers formed the Bear Valley Mutual Water Company to manage the reservoir and water rights.

1910–1912
• A new multiple-arch dam, designed by John S. Eastwood, replaces Brown’s dam, raising the lake level by about 20 feet and greatly expanding its capacity.

1920s
• Roads improve, and the automobile brings increased tourism. The town of Pineknot develops on the lake’s south shore with lodges, stores, and resorts.

1930s
• Winter recreation grows. Early ski runs are cut, and lodges cater to both summer and winter visitors.
• 1938 – Pineknot officially changes its name to Big Bear Lake.

1940s
• Big Bear becomes a year-round resort. During World War II, mountain roads were used for military transport training, but the area remained largely a recreation destination.

1950s
• Big Bear Alpine Zoo opens as a rehabilitation center for injured wildlife (1959).
• Ski development accelerates with lifts at Snow Summit.

1960s
• Tourism and second-home construction expand rapidly.
• The Big Bear Valley Historical Society was founded in 1967.

1970s
• The community continues to grow, balancing tourism with environmental concerns.

1980
• The City of Big Bear Lake was incorporated on November 28.

1980s
• Alpine Slide at Magic Mountain opens (1983).
• Ongoing improvements in highways and infrastructure make Big Bear a popular four-season resort.

1990s
• Big Bear becomes known for altitude training by professional athletes, including world-class boxers.

2000s–Present
• Tourism, recreation, and environmental stewardship define the region.
• The old 1884 dam remains a historical landmark, sometimes visible during low water levels.
• Big Bear preserves its mountain-resort heritage while serving as a gateway to the San Bernardino National Forest.

Big Bear and the Digital Desert are closely related through geography, ecology, history, and human development. The Digital Desert’s broader Mojave focus naturally overlaps with Big Bear’s transitional mountain-desert setting in several key ways:

Geographic Connection
Big Bear sits at the top of the Santa Ana River watershed, where mountain snowmelt begins the river’s underground journey to Southern California hills and valleys.

Ecological Transition Zone
The region bridges montane and desert biomes. Pinyon-juniper woodlands, chaparral, and Joshua tree habitats meet higher-elevation conifer forests. This gradation provides examples of how altitude, temperature, and moisture shape plant and animal communities—central themes within the Digital Desert’s ecological framework.

Historical Ties
Figures like William Holcomb and Lucky Baldwin tie Big Bear’s mining story to other desert mineral ventures, including Holcomb Valley’s influence on later Mojave mining booms. Trails from Big Bear connected to routes leading toward Lucerne Valley, Johnson Valley, and beyond—pathways that also appear throughout Mojave Desert exploration and settlement history.

Water and Infrastructure
The Bear Valley dams (1884 and 1912) represent early Southern California water engineering that parallels other Digital Desert themes such as aqueducts, irrigation systems, and the transformation of desert hydrology. Big Bear’s water storage directly supported the agricultural valleys below, tying mountain runoff to desert life.

Cultural and Recreational Link
Both Big Bear and the Mojave represent frontier landscapes turned into recreation destinations. The same pioneer spirit that shaped desert communities like Apple Valley or Hesperia carried over into Big Bear’s tourism development—cabins, roads, and storytelling built around rugged independence and mountain allure.

Interpretive Relationship
Within the Digital Desert framework, Big Bear serves as a high-elevation counterpart—a living case study for water origins, ecological transition, and cultural continuity. It connects the snow-fed headwaters to the dry basins below, showing the mountain-desert system as one continuous, interdependent landscape.

Ecological Description

Big Bear Valley lies high in the San Bernardino Mountains, about 6,700 to 7,000 feet above sea level, forming a broad mountain basin surrounded by rugged granite peaks and forested ridges. The valley stretches roughly east–west, framed by Butler Peak and Delamar Mountain to the north, and Sugarloaf Mountain, Gold Mountain, and the San Gorgonio massif to the south and east.

The valley floor is relatively flat, a remnant of ancient glacial and erosional processes, with Big Bear Lake occupying its central depression. Originally a meadowed valley with creeks and marshes, it became a permanent lake after the Bear Valley Dams were built. The soils are derived from decomposed granite, supporting open forests and meadows interspersed with boulder-strewn slopes.

Ponderosa pine, Jeffrey pine, white fir, and incense cedar dominate the higher slopes. At the same time, black oak, manzanita, and chaparral fill the lower edges in sheltered meadows and along streams, willows and alders grow, creating rare wetland habitats for species such as the mountain yellow-legged frog and bald eagle.

The climate is alpine-mediterranean—cold, snowy winters and warm, dry summers—marked by dramatic seasonal shifts. Snowmelt feeds Big Bear Creek and Baldwin Lake, the latter a seasonal alkali flat on the eastern edge of the valley.

Ecologically, Big Bear Valley forms the upper boundary of the Mojave Desert drainage system. It captures mountain precipitation that ultimately seeps underground toward Lucerne and the Mojave River basin, linking the high forest to the desert below.

Timeline References

Big Bear Valley Historical Museum. “History of Big Bear Valley.” Big Bear Valley Historical Society, Big Bear City, CA.
BigBear.com. “Dam: The Creation of Big Bear Lake.” Big Bear Visitors Bureau.
BigBearCabins.com. “About Big Bear: A History.” Big Bear Cabins Travel Guide.
BigBearVacations.com. “A History of Big Bear.” Big Bear Vacations Blog.
San Bernardino County Museum Archives. “Mining and Settlement in the San Bernardino Mountains.”
Eastwood, John S. “The Multiple-Arch Dam of Bear Valley.” Engineering Record, 1912.
U.S. Forest Service. “San Bernardino National Forest: Ecological Subsections and Watershed Overview.”
Bear Valley Mutual Water Company. “Early Development and Water Rights History.”
Langenheim, Jean H., and P. H. Osman. “Vegetation and Ecology of the San Bernardino Mountains.” University of California Publications in Botany, 1959.
California Department of Fish and Wildlife. “Baldwin Lake Ecological Reserve Management Plan.”
San Bernardino Valley Water District. “Hydrologic History of the Bear Valley and Mojave River System.”
Wikipedia contributors. “Big Bear Lake, California.” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia.
Wikipedia contributors. “Big Bear Valley Historical Museum.” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia.
Brown, F. E. “The First Bear Valley Dam and the Redlands Water System.” Redlands Historical Society Papers, 1884–1905.
U.S. Geological Survey. “Geology and Hydrology of the Big Bear Lake Region, San Bernardino County, California.” Professional Paper Series.

Chief Walkara

The Greatest Horse Thief

*Walkara – Representational from an original sketch.*

Chief Walkara (also spelled Wakara or Walker) was a Ute leader who rose to prominence during the early 1800s in what is now Utah, Nevada, and parts of California. Born around 1808 near the Spanish Fork River, he belonged to the Timpanogos band of the Ute people. He was one of several brothers who became influential chiefs, including Arapeen and Sanpitch. From an early age, Walkara was known for his mastery of horses, his courage in battle, and his sharp understanding of trade and diplomacy. These traits positioned him to take full advantage of the chaotic frontier world between Native peoples, Mexicans, and Americans along the Old Spanish Trail.

Walkara’s early fame came from his raiding and trading operations along the Old Spanish Trail, the overland route linking Santa Fe and Los Angeles. During the 1820s and 1830s, this route passed through Ute country, and Walkara quickly learned that power came from controlling who moved through it. He and his men imposed tolls on Mexican traders, demanding gifts of blankets, powder, or metal goods in exchange for safe passage. These tolls were enforced by threat of force but usually honored by both sides, as the traders knew they could not travel safely without Ute permission. Over time, Walkara’s camp became a trading post in its own right, where goods from New Mexico and California were exchanged for furs, horses, and captives.

His influence grew through large-scale raiding, particularly horse raids on ranches and missions in southern California. Walkara’s bands, sometimes numbering 100 to 200 mounted warriors, crossed the Mojave Desert to raid the ranchos of San Luis Obispo, San Juan Capistrano, and Mission San Gabriel. One raid in 1840 reportedly netted as many as 3,000 horses and mules, all of which were driven back across the desert without a single man being lost. His skill in organizing and leading these raids earned him the nickname “the greatest horse thief in the West.” The horses were driven north and east to Utah, where they were traded to Mexican or American intermediaries for guns, powder, and whiskey. Among those traders were mountain men such as James Beckwourth and Thomas “Pegleg” Smith, who became Walkara’s partners. They supplied him with weapons and other goods and, in turn, took the stolen horses to market in Santa Fe or Oregon, often reaping huge profits.

Walkara’s power extended beyond raiding. He also commanded loyalty and fear among many Great Basin tribes. Some allied with him for protection or shared in his profits; others paid tribute to avoid attack. He often incorporated Paiute, Goshute, and Shoshone warriors into his raiding parties. His leadership and wealth gave him the stature of a regional warlord, and even his enemies respected his authority. By the 1830s, he was widely recognized by traders from both Mexico and the United States as the most powerful Ute chief in the Great Basin.

A darker side of Walkara’s trade network was his involvement in the Native slave trade. The Utes had long been active in capturing people from neighboring tribes, particularly the more vulnerable Paiutes and Goshutes, and selling them to New Mexican traders. Walkara expanded this practice into a large-scale system of slave raiding. His men attacked Paiute and Goshute camps, taking women and children captive to sell or trade. Many of these captives were sold to Hispanic traders from New Mexico, who took them south to be used as domestic servants, laborers, or farmhands. Children were preferred because they were easier to train and control, and young girls were especially valued. Prices were often recorded as approximately $200 for a girl and $150 for a boy. This trade devastated the Paiute and Goshute peoples, forcing them to live in hiding and even to sell their own children in times of famine to avoid starvation. Horses and captives were often traded interchangeably—one could be exchanged for the other—creating a grim but efficient cycle of commerce that enriched Walkara’s band.

Walkara’s involvement in this trade was no secret. Mexican records show that New Mexican traders, including men such as Don Pedro León Luján, met with Walkara and other Ute chiefs to trade for captives in the 1830s and 1840s. Although Mexican law forbade the practice, it was widely tolerated in frontier regions. When American settlers and Mormon pioneers began arriving later, they were shocked by the existence of this trade. However, many of them also purchased captives as servants under the justification of “redeeming” them. Among the Utes themselves, some oral traditions dispute that Walkara directly sold captives, suggesting that later historians exaggerated the practice or misunderstood Ute customs. Even so, contemporary reports from Mexican, American, and Mormon sources confirm that his band played a significant role in supplying the slave markets of New Mexico.

During these same years, Walkara cultivated relationships with both Mexican and American traders. His dealings with Mexican traders were essentially pragmatic—he provided horses and slaves in exchange for guns, ammunition, knives, and whiskey. With American trappers and explorers, his relations were usually friendly and based on mutual trade. The Utes found that trading with Americans brought better goods than the old Spanish system had, and Walkara’s fluency in both Spanish and English helped him act as a go-between. He often guided traders through Ute territory or arranged safe passage for them in exchange for gifts and favors. American mountain men respected him as a man of intelligence and courage. When John C. Fremont’s expeditions passed near Ute lands in the early 1840s, they noted the presence of influential Ute leaders who controlled the trade and movement in central Utah—almost certainly referring to Walkara.

By the time the first Mormon settlers entered the Salt Lake Valley in 1847, Walkara was already a well-known figure across the entire Great Basin. He had grown wealthy in horses, arms, and trade goods, and his name was known as far as Santa Fe and Los Angeles. Initially, he welcomed the Mormon pioneers, hoping they would become valuable trading partners like the trappers before them. He even accepted baptism into the Mormon Church in 1850, though this was likely more a political gesture than a religious conversion. However, as the Mormons expanded their settlements, they began to interfere with the horse and slave trades that had been central to Walkara’s power. These changes, combined with growing tensions over resources, eventually led to the Walker War of 1853–1854. But in his earlier years, long before that conflict, Walkara was already a legend—an adaptable and ambitious leader who built an empire of horses, trade, and influence stretching from the Mojave Desert to the Rocky Mountains.

He died in 1855 near Meadow, Utah, reportedly from pneumonia, and was buried according to Ute custom with his horse and belongings. His life marked the end of an era when Ute power and frontier trade shaped the fate of the Great Basin, before the arrival of settlers and soldiers transformed it forever.

Old Spanish Trail

John C. Fremont

James Beckwourth

Thomas “Pegleg” Smith

Men, Cattle & Cattlemen

Raising cattle in the Mojave National Preserve comes with unique challenges and a long history. The area has been home to cattle ranching since the late 19th century, with ranchers taking advantage of the sparse but hardy desert vegetation and natural springs.

Historical Perspective

Cattle ranching in the Mojave Preserve dates back to the late 1800s, with ranchers establishing homesteads and using the land for grazing. Ranches like Rock Spring Ranch, Valley View Ranch, and the OX Ranch were some of the key operations. Water was always the limiting factor, so early ranchers developed wells, windmills, and water troughs to sustain their herds.

During the 20th century, ranching continued despite the harsh environment. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and later the National Park Service (NPS) managed grazing leases. Still, conflicts arose over land use, conservation, and the impact of cattle on fragile desert ecosystems.

Modern Challenges

After the creation of the Mojave National Preserve in 1994, the National Park Service began phasing out cattle ranching through voluntary buyouts of grazing rights. Some ranchers chose to sell, while others held on under special agreements. Today, very few cattle operations remain in the preserve, and grazing is largely restricted.

Key challenges include:

Water Scarcity: Natural springs and wells are limited, making it difficult to maintain large herds.
Harsh Climate: Extreme temperatures and unpredictable rainfall mean cattle must be resilient to drought conditions.
Regulatory Restrictions: The National Park Service enforces conservation policies, restricting new grazing leases and limiting herd sizes.
Predation and Disease: Coyotes and mountain lions pose risks to cattle, and disease can spread in remote conditions with limited veterinary care.

Legacy and Conservation

Though large-scale ranching has faded chiefly, remnants of the cattle industry remain in the form of historic ranch sites, windmills, and abandoned corrals scattered throughout the preserve. Some former ranching areas have become part of conservation efforts to restore native plant life and protect desert ecosystems.

Ranching played a significant role in shaping the human history of the Mojave, but in many areas, the land is slowly returning to a more natural state.

Mojave Preserve

Ranches in the Preserve

Desert Ranches

Standard Hill

Standard Hill sits just south of Mojave, California. Today, it appears to be just another rocky desert butte, but for more than a century, people were convinced it was a golden hill.

It started in 1894 when George Bowers, a lone prospector, stumbled across gold in the rocks. His first load of ore was worth $1,600, a substantial sum back then. Word spread fast. Soon, miners were sinking shafts into veins with colorful names, such as Yellow Rover, Exposed Treasure, and Desert Queen.

By 1901, the place wasn’t just a scatter of claims anymore. A big 20-stamp mill and a cyanide plant were built to crush and process the rock. What had been a lonely hill was suddenly alive with pounding stamps, the smell of chemicals, and the clatter of wagons hauling ore. A little company camp, called “Gold Town,” even grew at the base of the hill to house workers and families.

Mining boomed off and on for decades. Companies came and went—the Mojave Consolidated, Standard Mining and Milling, and later Standard Hill Mines Company. Each tried to pull wealth from the hill. In the 1930s, during the Great Depression, the district came roaring back to life. Miners chased the gold veins hundreds of feet down, working day and night until World War II shut them down by government order.

All told, Standard Hill yielded approximately $3.5 million worth of gold and silver in the past, primarily from the first three prominent veins. That’s roughly 170,000 ounces of gold, much of it in the form of bright yellow metal mixed with silver. People who worked in the mines said that some ore was so rich it sparkled in the sunlight.

The rock itself tells part of the story. Standard Hill is made of ancient granite capped with younger volcanic rock. When hot fluids moved through cracks in these rocks long ago, they left behind quartz veins stuffed with gold and silver. Miners followed these veins like treasure maps, finding pockets of ore several feet thick.

The hill wasn’t done yet. In the late 1980s, modern companies returned with bulldozers and leach pads, excavating four small open pits. They mined for just a few years before prices fell and the operation shut down again in the early 1990s.

Today, Standard Hill is quiet. You can still see old mine shafts, scattered ruins of the mill, and the scars of the modern pits. It’s a reminder of how one small desert hill fueled dreams of riches, supported little communities, and became part of California’s long gold-mining story.

Standard Hill – Desert Fever

Mojave, CA

Desert Fever: An Overview of Mining in the California Desert (Mojave Desert Mining History, Standard Hill section)
California Division of Mines and Geology, Mineral Resources of Kern County (1957; later summaries of Mojave-Rosamond District production and geology)
Mindat.org – Standard Hill Group (Mojave Mining District, Kern County, CA) – mindat.org/loc-219385.html
Elephant Butte – Standard Hill Group, Mojave Mining District, Kern County, California (technical geology report, academia.edu)
The Diggings – Standard Hill Mine (historical mining claim and production records) – thediggings.com/mines/28338
California Journal of Mines and Geology, 1930s–1940s issues (district reports with production figures and ore descriptions)
USGS Bulletins on Mojave District mineral deposits (notably reports describing epithermal systems of Soledad Mountain, Standard Hill, and Tropico Hill)

Old and Local History

Old, local histories offer several benefits, particularly for those interested in understanding their community, heritage, or region in depth. Here are some of the key advantages:

1. Preserving Cultural Heritage

Local histories capture the stories, traditions, and customs of a specific area, ensuring they aren’t lost to time. These records help preserve the unique identity of a community and can be a source of pride for residents.

2. Understanding Historical Context

They provide insight into how a community or region developed, from its earliest days to the present. This context can help explain why things are the way they are—like why a town was built in a particular spot or how its economy evolved.

3. Fostering Connection to Place

Local histories make people feel more connected to their surroundings. Learning about past residents, old landmarks, or forgotten events can create a deeper sense of belonging and appreciation for where you live.

4. Educational Value

These histories are invaluable resources for educators, researchers, and students. They offer specific examples of broader historical trends, such as migration, industrialization, or environmental changes, on a small, relatable scale.

5. Uncovering Hidden Stories

Local histories often highlight lesser-known stories or voices that might not appear in broader historical accounts—such as those of indigenous peoples, women, or minority groups who played crucial roles in shaping the area.

6. Inspiration for Creative Work

Writers, artists, and filmmakers often draw inspiration from local histories to create works that bring these stories to life. They can be a goldmine for unique characters, dramatic events, and compelling narratives.

7. Guiding Modern Decisions

Understanding a region’s past can inform present-day decisions about planning, conservation, and development. Knowing what worked (or didn’t) in the past helps guide future actions.

8. Building Community

Sharing stories from a local history can bring people together, whether through historical societies, reenactments, or simply reminiscing. It strengthens communal ties and fosters intergenerational dialogue.

9. Highlighting Change and Continuity

Local histories show what has changed over time and what has stayed the same. This perspective can be both humbling and inspiring, reminding people of their resilience, adaptability, and enduring values.

10. Personal Connections

If your ancestors lived in a region, exploring its history can help you learn more about their lives and experiences, making genealogy research richer and more meaningful.

In short, old, local histories help us better understand the roots of our communities, connect to the past, and navigate the future. They’re like a treasure chest of lessons, stories, and wisdom waiting to be rediscovered!

The California Southern

As to the Atlantic and Pacific, it suffered in common with other similar enterprises from the financial crash of 1873 and subsequently entered into a combination with the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe, and that St. Louis and San Francisco railroad companies, which gave the Atchison road a half interest in the charter of the Atlantic and Pacific, owned by the St Louis company, to which a valuable land grant attached. The two companies constructed, jointly, from the main line of the Atchison road at Albuquerque west to the Colorado at the Needles, between 1879 and 1883, with the intention of carrying their road thence to Los Angeles and San Francisco. But at this juncture the Southern Pacific again stopped the way.

The California Southern Railroad was chartered October 12, 1880, to construct a line from San Diego to San Bernardino, and the California Southern Extension company was chartered May 23, 1881, to extend this road to a connection with the Atlantic and Pacific in California, at a point about eighty miles northeast of San Bernardino. The two companies consolidated under the name of the first above-mentioned, and the road was completed to Colton in August 1882 and opened from San Diego to San Bernardino on September 13, 1883.

Soon afterward the Southern Pacific, obtaining through the purchase of stock a share in the management, secured the extension of the Atlantic and Pacific to the Colorado at the Needles, which compelled it to connect there with the former. This had nearly been a death-blow to the California Southern, which had suffered much, not only by opposition, but by floods in the Temecula canon, which rendered impassable thirty miles of its track, carrying bridges and ties entirely away, some being seen a hundred miles at sea. It must not only rebuild this thirty miles, but in order to reach the Atlantic and Pacific, must construct 300 miles of new road over mountain and desert, instead of the 80 miles as first intended. For several months the directors hesitated. But finally the Southern Pacific determined to sell to the California Southern the road from the Needles to Mojave, built by the Pacific Improvement company, the successor of the Western Development company. The transfer took place in October 1884, and the California Southern at once recommenced construction and repairs, and in November 1885 opened its line from San Diego to Barstow. In October 1886, it formally passed under the control of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe company, and was operated as a division of that road. Thus after ten years of struggle, two of the eastern roads effected an entrance into California.

histofcalifvol724bancmiss.pdf 629-631/850

Freight wagons

Order Number	00024931
Title	Freight wagons
Collection ID	Security Pacific National Bank Collection
Location/Accession	Victorville.
Date	Circa 1900
Physical Description	1 photograph :b&w
Description	Freight wagons ready to go from Victorville to Big Bear Lake, being pulled by a team of 8 horses.
Subject	Freight and freightage–California–Victorville. Victorville (Calif.).
Format	Photographic prints
Reproduction Information	Images available for reproduction and use. Please see the Ordering & Use page at http://tessa.lapl.org/OrderingUse.html for additional information.
Sub-Collection Name	Security Pacific National Bank Photo Collection

California to Salt Lake City

THE OVERLAND MAIL
1849-1869
Promoter of Settlement
Precursor of Railroads by
LE ROY R. HAFEN, PH.D .
Historian, The Stale Historical and Natural History Society of Colorado

The first United States mail between California and Salt Lake City was established in 1851. This route was advertised January 27, 1851, and the thirty-seven bids received ranged from $20,000 for “horseback or two horse coach service,” to $200,000 per year for service with ” 135 pack animals with 45 men, divided into three parties.” One bid was for a four-horse coach with a guard of six men, at $135,000 per year. The lowest bid was accepted and a contract was made in April with Absalom Woodward and George Chorpenning for a monthly service at $14,000 per year; the trip each way was to be made in thirty days. No points were designated at which the route should touch, but it was to go “by the then traveled trail, considered about 910 miles long.”

Chorpenning and his men left Sacramento May 1, 1851, with the first mail. They had great difficulty in reaching Carson valley, having had to beat down the snow with wooden mauls to open a trail for their animals over the Sierras. For sixteen days and nights they struggled through and camped upon deep snow. Upon reaching Carson valley, Chorpenning staked off in the usual western manner, a quarter section of land and arranged to establish a mail station. The town of Genoa, Nevada, grew-up on this site. Chorpenning and several men continued eastward and reached Salt Lake City June 5th, having been delayed somewhat by snow in the Goose Creek mountains.

Throughout the summer, difficulties were experienced with the Indians; and Woodward, who left Sacramento with the November mail, was killed by them just west of Malad River in northern Utah. The December and January mails from Sacramento were forced to return on account of deep snow, but the February (1852) mail was pushed through by way of the Feather River Pass and reached Salt Lake City in sixty days. The carriers endured frightful sufferings; owing to the fact that their horses were frozen to death in the Goose Creek mountains, they had to go the last two hundred miles to Salt Lake City on foot. Permission was obtained from the special agent in San Francisco to send the March mail down the coast to San Pedro and thence by the Cajon Pass and the Mormon trail to Salt Lake City. During the summer of 1852 the service continued to be performed across northern Nevada by way of the Humboldt River; but as winter approached, arrangements were made with the mail agent at San Francisco to carry the Utah mail via Los Angeles during the winter months. The Carson valley post office was supplied monthly by a carrier on snow-shoes. Fred Bishop and Dritt were the first carriers and they were succeeded by George Pierce and John A. Thompson. The latter, “Snowshoe Thompson,” a Norwegian by birth, made himself famous in this section by his feats on snow-shoes during succeeding winters. The shoes used were ten feet long and of the Canadian pattern. He often took one hundred pounds upon the journey between Placerville and Carson, and made the trip in three days to Placerville and the return journey in two days.

With the interruption by bad weather of the mail service east of Salt Lake City, the mail was sent westward to San Pedro, where it was transmitted by steamer to the Atlantic seaboard. This increased the weight of Chorpenning mail from about one hundred pounds to about five hundred pounds. For this additional service Chorpenning made claim and in 1857 received payment on a pro rata basis.

The causes of the irregularity and interruption of the mail service to Utah had not been explained to the Postmaster-general by the Special Agent at San Francisco and so, upon the grounds of the derangement of the service, the Postmaster-general annulled the contract with Chorpenning, and made one with W. L. Blanchard of California. The new contractor was to receive $50,000 per year, and was to maintain a fortified post at Carson valley. Upon learning of this new arrangement in January, 1853, Chorpenning set out for Washington and, after setting forth his case before the new Postmaster-general, was reinstated. A verbal agreement was made that the compensation should be increased to $30,000 per year and permission was given to carry the mails via San Pedro during the winter months.

During the first three years (1851-4) the Utah-California mail was carried except in winter, by the old emigrant route. This route lay from Sacramento
through Folsom, Placerville, along the old road through Strawberry and Hope valleys to Carson valley. From this point it led to the Humboldt, which stream
was followed nearly to its source. Leaving the Humboldt the route led northeastward into southern Idaho in the vicinity of the Goose Creek mountains, and thence southeasterly around the north side of Great Salt Lake to Salt Lake City.

In the lettings of 1854, the Utah-California mail route was changed to run from Salt Lake City over the Mormon trail to San Diego. Chorpenning was again the successful bidder. The mail was to be carried monthly each way, through in twenty-eight days, for a compensation of $12,500 per year. Chorpenning thought it worthwhile to enter a low bid to ensure getting the contract since he expected that the service would probably be increased to a weekly schedule, the time per trip reduced, and the compensation increased.

The service began July 1, 1854, and was to continue for four years. The mail was carried on horseback or on pack mules. During that first summer, Indian difficulties arose and continued at intervals for months. The emigration fell off and expenses on the route increased. Similar difficulties had been encountered by the contractors east of the Rocky Mountains, who appealed to Congress and received increased remuneration by the act of March 3, 1855. Encouraged by their success with Congress, and inasmuch as his difficulties continued, Chorpenning went to Washington and presented his claims in June, 1856. Congress responded with an act for his relief March 3, 1857. It provided that the compensation be increased to $30,000 per year from July 1, 1853, to the termination of the contract in 1858; that the full contract pay be allowed during the suspension of the contract in the spring of 1853; and that the Postmaster-general make an additional allowance on a pro rata basis for the extra service performed prior to 1853. A total of $109,072.95 was allowed and paid under the provisions of this act.

During the four years of the duration of the contract (until July i, 1858), the mail was carried with fair regularity, and often in less than schedule time. The service was usually performed on horseback, but a wagon was used occasionally. The mail of December, 1857, was taken from Salt Lake City to Los Angeles by wagon in twenty-six days, while on horseback the trip often did not consume more than twenty days.

Wells Fargo and Company, Adams and Company, and other express companies maintained express service on the line during this period (1854-8). There was also much freighting and some emigrant travel over the road. The Mormon “State of Deseret” had included the whole of this route with its terminus upon the Pacific Coast. A colony was planted by these pioneers at San Bernardino in 1851 and considerable trade and intercourse was carried-on over this road.

The route was in general that of the present “Arrowhead Trail” automobile road. From Los Angeles the route led to San Bernardino, through Cajon Pass to the Mohave River, which was followed for fifty miles. From the Mohave River the route lay to the north to Bitter Springs, then turned eastward by Kingston Springs to Las Vegas, Nevada. From this famous resting station a dry stretch of sixty miles was crossed leading to the Muddy Creek. After crossing another “bench” the Virgin River was reached, and this stream was followed to Beaver Dams, Arizona. Leaving the Virgin River the road crossed the “slope” and over a little mountain range to the Santa Clara Creek, which stream was followed to the vicinity of the famous Mountain Meadows. From Mountain Meadows the route led to Cedar City and thence almost due north through the Mormon settlements of Parowan, Beaver, Fillmore, Nephi, Payson, Provo, and Lehi to Salt Lake City.”

Before the termination of the contract on this route the policy of extensive increases in the western mail lines was inaugurated, and partisans of the “Central Route” via Salt Lake City and across northern Nevada were demanding service upon that more direct route to San Francisco. Accordingly, in 1858 this Los Angeles to-Salt Lake City route was discontinued and the original route of 1851 was re-established and put upon an improved basis.

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The Evolution of Muroc: From Desert Wasteland to Aviation and Racing Hub

Geological and Environmental Background

Pleistocene Era (circa 2.5 million years ago) The origins of Rogers Dry Lake, located in the Antelope Valley within the Mojave Desert, trace back to the Pleistocene Era, around 2.5 million years ago. As a pluvial lake, it boasts an incredibly flat, smooth, and hard surface, which can withstand pressures up to 250 psi. These unique geological characteristics made Rogers Dry Lake a natural choice for aviation and automotive speed trials. Covering approximately 65 square miles, the lakebed forms a rough figure eight and is known for its harsh climate, experiencing extreme temperatures, violent dust storms, and mesmerizing sunsets.

Early Settlement and Development

Pre-1876: Sparse Population and Railroad Expansion Before significant settlement, the area was primarily inhabited by occasional prospectors searching for mineral wealth. The Southern Pacific Railroad established a water stop near the lakebed in 1876. In 1882, the Santa Fe Railroad extended westward from Barstow toward Mojave, establishing another water stop at the edge of what was then called Rodriguez Dry Lake. By the early 1900s, the name “Rodriguez” had been anglicized to “Rogers.”

1910: The Corum Family and the Founding of Muroc In 1910, the Corum family settled at the lakebed, naming the area “Muroc” by reversing their last name after their original choice, “Corum,” was rejected due to its similarity to “Coram, California.” The Corum family established a general store and post office, attracting other homesteaders and helping to develop the area. Their efforts laid the foundation for what would become a significant site in both aviation and automotive history.

Early Racing Events

1920s: The Dawn of Speed Events Muroc Dry Lake became a prominent site for American Automobile Association (AAA) sanctioned speed events during the 1920s. The affordability and modifiability of the Model T made it the preferred vehicle for early hot rodders. Roadsters were favored among racers, but touring cars were also frequently raced. In May 1923, Joe Nikrent set a speed record of 108.24 miles per hour in a stripped-down Buick. The following year, Tommy Milton achieved 151.26 mph in a Miller-powered race car. In 1927, Frank Lockhart reached a speed of 171 miles per hour, further cementing Muroc’s reputation as a premier racing venue.

October 9, 1927: Southern California Champion Sweepstakes One of the most significant early racing events was the Southern California Champion Sweepstakes, held on October 9, 1927. Organized by Earl Mansell from Pasadena, California, the event featured five classes of competition:

Ford Roadsters: Open to any Ford roadster with or without fenders or windshields, requiring a hood and turtle deck.
Ford Coupes: Required fenders, hood, windshield, and doors.
Ford Touring Cars: Fenders and windshields were optional.
Special Flathead Race: Open to any body style with a flathead engine, offering refunded entry fees to winners of the previous events.
Championship Sweepstakes: Open to any roadster, coupe, or touring car, with the option to race without windshield or fenders.

Organized Racing and the SCTA

1931: The First Organized Speed Trials In 1931, one of the first known organized amateur speed trials took place at Muroc, sponsored by Gilmore Oil Company of Los Angeles and organized by George Wight, owner of Bell Auto Parts. Recognizing the need for coordinated rules and regulations, Wight invited hot rodders to an organizational meeting in East Los Angeles. Early rules categorized cars based on engine types, including Model T flatheads, Model T Rajos, Model T Frontenacs and Chevrolets, Model A flatheads, and Model A overhead valve conversions. Supercharged cars were not allowed to compete. The first organized meet was held on March 25, 1931, followed by another on April 19, 1931. Safety measures were implemented, such as a 40 mph speed limit for returning cars and penalties for jumping the start.

Formation of the Muroc Racing Association By the end of 1931, the Muroc Racing Association was formed, complete with officers and a race program. The association collected a one-dollar entry fee to cover expenses, and the Purdy Brothers developed an electrical timer to clock the cars’ speeds, further formalizing the events.

1932-1933: Changes in Classification In 1932, the trials continued under the same rules, but significant changes in car classification were introduced. Cars were now categorized as either stock-bodied or modified. Stock-bodied cars could have certain parts removed, while modified cars were significantly altered. Between the 1932 and 1933 seasons, classifications shifted to speed and body type, with new classes based on potential top speeds. This change aimed to ensure fairness and safety, with measures like painting speedometers with white shoe polish to prevent drivers from knowing their exact speed.

Military Establishment and World War II

September 1933: The Arrival of the Army In 1933, the United States Army arrived at Muroc, recognizing the lakebed’s potential as an airfield. The Muroc Bombing and Gunnery Range was established, and by 1937, the United States Army Air Corps set up Muroc Air Field for training and testing purposes.

World War II and the Establishment of Muroc Army Air Base During World War II, Muroc Army Air Base was activated, serving as a major training site for bomber crews and fighter pilots. The flat, hard surface of Rogers Dry Lake was ideal for aircraft testing, including early jet planes like the Bell XP-59A and the Lockheed XP-80. On October 1, 1942, the Bell XP-59A Airacomet, America’s first jet plane, made its first flight at Muroc. The base played a crucial role in the war effort, training crews and testing new aircraft.

Post-War Developments After the war, Muroc continued to be a central hub for aviation research and development. The Bell X-1, piloted by Capt. Charles E. “Chuck” Yeager, broke the sound barrier on October 14, 1947, marking a significant milestone in aviation history. The base was renamed Edwards Air Force Base in February 1948 in honor of Capt. Glen W. Edwards, who died in a test flight accident. By 1950, Edwards Air Force Base was officially dedicated and recognized as the U.S. Air Force Flight Test Center (AFFTC).

The Hot Rodding Era

Post-War Racing and El Mirage The end of World War II marked a transition from racing activities at Muroc to El Mirage, another dry lakebed south of the air base. While El Mirage was not as ideal as Muroc, it continued to host hot rodding events. The SCTA (Southern California Timing Association) organized several “reunion” races at Muroc in 1995, bringing together a generation of racers who had participated in early SCTA events. However, racing activities at Muroc were halted following the events of September 11, 2001, due to security concerns.

Legacy and Continued Significance

Aviation and Hot Rodding Heritage Muroc’s dual legacy as a pioneering site for both aviation and hot rodding remains significant. Edwards Air Force Base continues to be a premier flight testing center, contributing to numerous advancements in aerospace technology. Meanwhile, the early days of hot rodding at Muroc are fondly remembered by enthusiasts and are considered a foundational period in the history of American motorsports.

Current Status and Future Prospects While racing activities at Muroc have ceased, El Mirage remains an active site for hot rodding events. The SCTA continues to organize races, preserving the spirit and tradition of early speed trials. There is hope that, in the future, Muroc might once again host racing events, allowing the sands to echo with the sounds of high-speed automotive competition.

In conclusion, Muroc’s history is a testament to its unique geographical features and its adaptability, serving as a critical site for both military aviation and automotive racing. The integration of these diverse historical elements highlights Muroc’s significant contribution to American technological and cultural heritage.

Aviation in the Antelope Valley

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The story of the aeronautics industry in Antelope Valley, California, is like a thrilling adventure packed with innovation, daring feats, and a community of passionate people pushing the boundaries of what’s possible.

The Early Days: A Desert Transformed

Dryden Flight Research Center and Edwards Air Force Base 1983.
*(Courtesy of NASA, NASA/Dryden Flight Research Center)*

In the 1930s, Antelope Valley’s vast, quiet deserts started humming with activity as the Muroc Army Air Field, which would become Edwards Air Force Base, took root. The endless skies and isolated expanses were perfect for daring pilots to test new aircraft far from prying eyes.

World War II: A Boom of Innovation
Fast forward to the 1940s, and the skies over the Antelope Valley were buzzing with the energy of World War II. The desert became a crucible for innovation, with pilots and engineers working tirelessly to develop and test new aircraft that would give the Allies an edge.

Breaking Barriers: The Jet Age
Then came the post-war era and, with it, a leap into the unknown. In 1947, Chuck Yeager made history by breaking the sound barrier in the Bell X-1 at Edwards Air Force Base. Imagine the exhilaration of that moment—the roar of the jet, the shattering of records, and the sense of stepping into a new era of aviation.

The Space Race: Reaching for the Stars
The 1960s brought the space race, and the Antelope Valley became a launchpad for dreams of space exploration. NASA’s Flight Research Center at Edwards AFB buzzed with activity. Engineers and astronauts worked side by side, testing the limits of humans and machines. The X-15 rocket plane, for instance, soared to the edge of space, paving the way for the Apollo missions.

Modern Marvels: From Stealth to Space
The Antelope Valley continued to be a hotbed of innovation in the following decades. The 1980s and 1990s saw the development of stealth technology, leading to iconic aircraft like the B-2 Spirit bomber and the F-117 Nighthawk. Every test flight was a step into the unknown, with engineers and pilots working together to make the impossible possible.

The Commercial Space Age: New Horizons
As we moved into the 21st century, the Mojave Air and Space Port became a playground for the new pioneers of space—the private companies aiming to make space travel accessible to all. Think of the excitement as companies like Virgin Galactic and SpaceX took bold steps towards commercial spaceflight, testing rockets and spacecraft in the very place where aviation history had been made for decades.

A Community of Innovators
One thing remained constant throughout these eras: the spirit of the people in Antelope Valley. This community has been the heart and soul of aviation innovation, from the test pilots risking their lives to the engineers working late into the night to the local educators training the next generation of aerospace workers.

Milestones and Memories
The Antelope Valley is more than just a location; it’s a living testament to human ingenuity and endurance. It’s where the sound barrier was broken, the Space Shuttle first touched down, and new frontiers in aviation and space continue to be explored.

The story of the aeronautics industry in the Antelope Valley celebrates human achievement. It’s a narrative filled with high-flying dreams, ground-breaking successes, and the persistent pursuit of the skies and beyond.

Aeronautics Industry in Antelope Valley, California

The Antelope Valley, located in northern Los Angeles County and the southeast portion of Kern County in California, is a significant hub for the aeronautics industry. This region is often referred to as the “Aerospace Valley” due to its rich history and ongoing contributions to aviation and space exploration. Here are some key highlights about the aeronautics industry in the Antelope Valley:

Edwards Air Force Base:
- Edwards AFB is a major center for flight testing and research. It is home to the Air Force Test Center and the Air Force Test Pilot School.
- Historically, it has been the site for testing experimental aircraft, including the X-1, in which Chuck Yeager broke the sound barrier, and the Space Shuttle, which landed here after its missions.
NASA’s Armstrong Flight Research Center:
- Located within Edwards Air Force Base, this NASA center focuses on aeronautics research and testing advanced aircraft technologies.
- Notable projects include the testing of unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) and new propulsion systems.
Mojave Air and Space Port:
- The Mojave Air and Space Port is a civilian aerospace test center and home to several private aerospace companies.
- Companies such as Virgin Galactic, Stratolaunch, and Masten Space Systems have conducted significant testing and development here.
Plant 42:
- Air Force Plant 42 in Palmdale is another critical facility, serving as a production and testing site for major aerospace companies like Lockheed Martin, Northrop Grumman, and Boeing.
- It is known for the assembly and modification of aircraft, including the B-2 Spirit and the F-35 Lightning II.
Aerospace Companies:
- Several prominent aerospace companies have a significant presence in the Antelope Valley. Northrop Grumman, Lockheed Martin, and Boeing all conduct major regional operations.
- These companies are involved in developing and testing cutting-edge technologies for military and civilian applications.
Historical Significance:
- The region has a storied aviation history, from the early days of flight testing to the modern era of space exploration.
- It has played a crucial role in developing many iconic aircraft and spacecraft.
Educational and Research Institutions:
- Institutions like Antelope Valley College, California State University, and Bakersfield offer programs related to aerospace and engineering, supporting the industry with a skilled workforce.

The Antelope Valley continues to be a cornerstone of innovation and progress in the aeronautics industry, playing a pivotal role in advancing aerospace technology and exploration.

Aviation Leaders in the Valley

The Antelope Valley has been home to numerous aviation leaders who have significantly contributed to advancing aerospace technology. These pioneers and visionaries have left an indelible mark on the industry, driving innovation and inspiring future generations. Here are some notable aviation leaders from the Antelope Valley:

Chuck Yeager
Accomplishment: First person to break the sound barrier.
Contribution: On October 14, 1947, Yeager piloted the Bell X-1 at Edwards Air Force Base, achieving supersonic flight. His courage and skill made him an aviation legend and set the stage for future high-speed aircraft development.
Jack Northrop
Accomplishment: Founder of Northrop Corporation.
Contribution: Jack Northrop was a visionary engineer and designer known for his innovative aircraft designs, including the flying wing concept. His company played a crucial role in developing advanced military aircraft.
Kelly Johnson
Accomplishment: Founder of the Lockheed Skunk Works.
Contribution: Johnson was a brilliant aerospace engineer who designed iconic aircraft such as the U-2 spy plane, the SR-71 Blackbird, and the F-117 Nighthawk. His work at Skunk Works in Palmdale pushed the boundaries of stealth and reconnaissance technology.
Burt Rutan
Accomplishment: Founder of Scaled Composites.
Contribution: An innovative aerospace engineer, Rutan is known for designing SpaceShipOne, the first privately funded spacecraft to reach space. His work at the Mojave Air and Space Port has revolutionized the field of private space exploration.
George S. Patton Jr.
Accomplishment: WWII General and namesake of Patton Aviation.
Contribution: Although primarily known for his military leadership during World War II, Patton’s legacy extends to aviation through the Patton Aviation company, contributing to aviation training and services in the Antelope Valley.
Bill Dana
Accomplishment: NASA test pilot and astronaut.
Contribution: Dana was a key figure in testing the X-15 rocket plane, reaching the edge of space. His work helped bridge the gap between atmospheric flight and space travel, contributing significantly to the understanding of high-speed, high-altitude flight.
Frank Kendall
Accomplishment: Assistant Secretary of the Air Force for Acquisition.
Contribution: Kendall has played a vital role in developing and procuring advanced aerospace systems, ensuring the U.S. Air Force remains at the cutting edge of technology. His work has supported the Antelope Valley’s position as a leader in aerospace innovation.
Richard Branson
Accomplishment: Founder of Virgin Galactic.
Contribution: Branson’s company, Virgin Galactic, based at the Mojave Air and Space Port, is pioneering commercial space tourism. His vision and investment have opened new private space travel and exploration frontiers.
Elon Musk
Accomplishment: Founder of SpaceX.
Contribution: Though not based in the Antelope Valley, Musk’s SpaceX has conducted numerous tests and operations at the Mojave Air and Space Port. His leadership has accelerated the development of reusable rockets and the goal of making life multi-planetary.
James Webb
Accomplishment: NASA Administrator.
Contribution: Webb’s leadership during the Apollo program laid the groundwork for modern space exploration. The James Webb Space Telescope, named in his honor, represents the next generation of space exploration technology.

These leaders have each contributed uniquely to the aerospace industry, driving the boundaries of what is possible and cementing the Antelope Valley’s reputation as a cradle of aviation and space exploration innovation.